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  #51  
Old 01-05-2012, 12:42 AM
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Ramvan just outa curiosity what would u charge?
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  #52  
Old 01-05-2012, 12:46 AM
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And SNRUSNAK r u talking about a combination of parts for the stroker kit?
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  #53  
Old 01-05-2012, 07:53 AM
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And SNRUSNAK r u talking about a combination of parts for the stroker kit?
Well the stroker kit probably comes with the following: crank, main bearings, rods, pistons, rings, and maybe a few other parts like wrist pins and retainer clips, but basically it is crank, rods, and pistons. They will all be matched together well, since they come in a "kit". What I mean is to match the cam, heads, etc.... to the bottom end and to each other. Every part should be aimed towards the same goal.

For example, I assume since your stroker kit bumps up displacement a lot that it has a much longer stroke than bore size. This probably makes it more of a low revving engine (comparatively anyways). If you put a cam in the truck that makes peak torque at an extremely high rpm, then this would be a "bad" combination and you wouldn't be using the engine (and your money) to it's full potential. Surely you'd still gain power, but you just may not gain as much as you could for the same money if you bought parts that work together better.

Just about every cam manufacturer lists useable rpm, max rpm, idle rpm, cruising rpm, optimum fuel economy rpm, etc... for their cams and is usually on their website. You should look at this to make a decision on how to match it up with your engine (primarily head flow). There are a million tricks out there and things to look for but most of it is really basic and common sense. For example, if you stick with the stock heads then again I strongly recommend a cam with more duration and/or lift on the exhaust side (since almost every stock head flows horribly on the exhaust side). If you go with aftermarket or modified stock heads this probably isn't as much of an issue (although I always think it's a good idea to have a little more on the exhaust side in terms of cam duration and/or lift). Keep in mind your transmission gearing and rear axle gearing and final ratio when choosing a cam too, figure out what rpm you'll be cruising at, etc.... to help decide on a cam as well.

You just want to make sure and try to make it all "work together".
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  #54  
Old 01-05-2012, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bigmikelrg View Post
Ramvan just outa curiosity what would u charge?
Well excluding parts It's around 400 bucks to rebuild it.
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  #55  
Old 01-05-2012, 05:36 PM
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SNRUSNAK What does the cam have to do with the gears in the axle I was gona go with 4.10 gears and EVENTUALY get aftermarket heads what should I do?
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  #56  
Old 01-05-2012, 06:17 PM
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SNRUSNAK What does the cam have to do with the gears in the axle I was gona go with 4.10 gears and EVENTUALY get aftermarket heads what should I do?
Depending on gearing your rpms will change at cruise (say 70mph on the highway). The cams will have a "most mpg efficient" rpm range, and depending on how much you care about that you'll want to at least keep that in mind. For example, if it's a track only vehicle, then who cares about mpg, just go for performance. If it's a daily driver you would want to consider this.

Most camshaft manufacturers will advertise their camshafts by duration. Moreso, it will be "advertised" duration. This is not a real number you want to use when talking about the specs, but it is good for shopping. Normally, any duration from 200-250 is considered "mildly aggresive" and anything over 250 is considered "aggresive". I had a 272 "advertised" duration cam in my old ford and it was very street friendly, but I will say it idled at about 1,200 rpm's. This was a carbed vehicle though, with fuel injection and proper tuning you can get a more tame idle rpm. You'd probably want to stay around the 250 range for advertised duration. With aftermarket performance heads, the exhaust flow issue will probably be addressed for the most part, but it's a good idea to get a cam that has more lift and/or duration on the exhaust side. Look at lift/duration numbers for the cams, if they are identical on intake and exhaust that is a "single pattern" cam, if the exhaust has higher values it is called a "dual pattern" cam, and this helps exhaust flow. Overlap is another term you'll come across, and it refers to the duration of "overlap" (time that the exhaust valve is still open while the intake valve is opening). The more overlap, the more aggressive the cam sounds, or in another term the more "lopey" it is. This typically gives more hp on a naturally aspirated engine, but is not good for boosted motors (turbo and supercharged). It is also good for nitrous engines, nitrous acts the same as NA.

There's a ton of info, I'm trying to lead you in the right direction....I wish I knew a good book or manual or something to refer you to. Maybe someone can chime in and recommend one. Either way, feel free to ask question I don't mind, but I'd spend some time trying to do some research on cams so you have a better grasp of them. The main things are duration, lift, and overlap.
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  #57  
Old 01-05-2012, 06:18 PM
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Also not sure if you know this but you need to match the valve springs to the cam...and the lifters and pushrods need to be compatible/strong enough as well...
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  #58  
Old 01-05-2012, 06:43 PM
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I can't find any other stroker kit to stoke my 318 to a 410 without it being boarded to .60 over I also haven't asked the shop if it's safe to bore it out that much yet but I was just looking just in case but if it's not ok to I'm screwed with gettin my goal of 400-450 hp. And so 4.10 gears would b good?
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  #59  
Old 01-05-2012, 06:51 PM
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4.10 gearing is a good choice, but you need to check after you pick a cam that it will be a good choice to match the gears in terms of cruising rpm. For example my old ford had 2.42 gearing with a 3 speed trans (no overdrive) so the final ratio was not very fuel efficient. At 55 mph the engine was turning around 2,000-2,500 rpms and that was about the cams "fuel efficient" range. At 70 mpg I would probably of been turning like 3,500 rpm's which would have got terrible mpg because that was not in the cam's "fuel efficient" range.

Yeah the shop can tell you if 60 over is safe. If they say it's good I'd trust them. If they say it's not, then come up with a new plan as I'd take the experts advice and save a lot of wasted money when a cylinder wall cracks.
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  #60  
Old 01-06-2012, 02:31 AM
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Ok I will ask them I am gona put a post on here to just to get more than 1 opinion
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