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  #11  
Old 12-17-2011, 09:48 AM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
A quick and dirty way to check if a caliper is sticking is to go on a highway speed run (time depends on how bad the drag is...may only take a few minutes, may take several minutes) and then get off at an exit and immediately pull over and feel with your hand left and right front wheels. If one is much hotter than the other the caliper is likely sticking. I personally would rebuild it before replacing it, however you can replace it. Again, I personally would do both sides at once. Next thing to look at if that is actually the issue is the rotors.
^^That's a very good point^^ and how I usually check. lazer probe works good too. I had a less that ingenious friend squirt water on his from a drinking bottle and I actually heard the "plink" when he cracked his rotor.

My RF caliper was sticking and I replaced them both...2 miles down the road it started dragging even worse. Cracked the bleeder and more air came out.

Over the next week or so I still noticed some drag.

Turns out the hose was bad. (Flexible brake line)

If you take a plastic drinking straw pinch it in the center and blow through it...you can force air out. But what happens when the fluid is supposed to return? One way flow and the caliper stays pressurized.

Just thought I'd throw that out there for consideration.

Was the only example I could come up with. I usually try to give examples so it doesn't sound odd just saying you've got mud in your tires.

Last edited by Warlock III; 12-17-2011 at 09:52 AM.
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  #12  
Old 12-28-2011, 10:48 PM
19dodgeram99 19dodgeram99 is offline
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ya sorry i never posted back on here just been busy with the holidays and stuff but, i put all new calipers and pads on it and there are not sticky any more goes wicked good. put it still pulls to the right when i step on the brakes. i must have a collapsed hose on the driver side because when we bled them it barely came out the drivers side. so thats my conclusion! haha
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Old 12-28-2011, 10:52 PM
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^maybe air in the line also...
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:48 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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^That's what my problem was originally^

But I still had a slight pull like he's referring to, same side. I'd crack the bleeder and stick a pry bar on the inside and compress the caliper a bit and re-tighten it.

If it still drags then go for the hose.
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:10 PM
19dodgeram99 19dodgeram99 is offline
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alrighty then i will deffiniteley do that then. thanks for all your help
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:23 PM
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Also tapping the caliper with the wrench helps get the air out. Sucking the fluid from the bottom vs the conventional way of bleeding works much better as well. You can buy a cheap suction bleeder at harbor freight or similar for like $10 I think...
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Old 01-03-2012, 06:45 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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^^That's a good point^^

AND it reminds me. when I have to bleed my brakes alone. I crack the bleeder open and put a small piece of clear tube over it snugly. About 2 feet long. I put the other end in a bottle of brake fluid and pump them. It pushes the fluid out and any air...making bubbles...and won't allow it to suck air back in because the hose is below the fluid level.
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:04 PM
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^^ thats a good idea right there ^^
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:05 PM
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i still havent gotten around to working on the truck yet, its been so friggin cold up here
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:10 AM
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I have a 2001 Ram Sport, 5.2L and have a drive side brake still overheating. New calipers as of last week and new wheel bearing on that "Hot" side.
My next attempt will be to see if there's debris stuck in the Master Cylinder disallowing the caliper to release sufficiently.
I'm always open to suggestions.
Best regards to all
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