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  #1  
Old 12-04-2011, 06:01 PM
mmiskoe mmiskoe is offline
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Default '99 5.9L only runs when cold

I've got a '99 w/ the 5.9L gas engine that sat for 8 months. When I went to start it, it did not fire right up which was not un-expected. However now it does not want to run when it warms up

- will start and idle when the engine is cold
- gets progressively worse as it warms up, stutters and wants to stall
- will run above 2000 rpm if you can keep it there, but once it falls below that it has difficulty getting back up to that speed
- when hot, if it does slip below 2k, adding throttle makes it skip and back fire
- No codes on the scanner
- when it was idling cold (with air box off) it made a lot of induction noise past the throttle plates, (if you reved it a bit this noise went away). As it warmed up, the induction noise stopped and it started to idle poorly and stalled. This was not a gradual thing, but as if something changed and the motor was no long happy.
- once stalled I sprayed light oil at the head/intake gasket area, but this seemed to have no affect. While it was runnin I sprayed a lot of water down in this same area w/ no change.

- I drained all the old fuel & replaced it with new that had drygas in it.
- after finding that only 2 out of 8 plugs were accessible due to the heat sheilds in the way, I have only changed the #1 and #4 plugs (#4 broke and left the threads in the head, but I got them out w/ an extractor).

This truck is a yard truck for clearing snow. Last spring it worked just fine, this is a new wrinkle after sitting since March.

Any thoughts would be appreciated, I'd rather have a clear plan before just replacing parts.
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:36 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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I really really hate to say this...but it seems like...the IAC may be stuck closed and choking the engine.

Wait and see if there's any other suggestions. Only because it's beginning to seem like that's my answer for everything. How's the weather? Oh it's the IAC... Nice bike what kind is it? It's an IAC... Oh what a cute baby! What's his name...

Oh yeah...Welcome to the forum!

Last edited by Warlock III; 12-05-2011 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 12-04-2011, 10:22 PM
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Welcome to the list. With todays electronics, I am lost for any answer, but am sure you will get the help you need from members here.
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:28 AM
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Sounds like a closed loop issue, meaning once the engine reaches operating temperature, it is using real-time data from all sensors, not just some of them along with pre-programmed data while warming up. Start at the top. Work your way down. That intake belly pan gasket. It makes for a huge hidden vacuum leak on the inside. Then I'd move to the O2 sensors. Knock those stupid heat shields out and use real, high-silicon plug wires that don't need heat shields.
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:15 AM
mmiskoe mmiskoe is offline
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Quote:
Knock those stupid heat shields out
You make this sound like its a 10 second affair. I tried on one and only managed to mangle it making the interference against the plug worse. How have you done it in the past? The exhaust manifolds are badly rusted, to the point the rust has expanded against the heat sheilds crushing the to the point a socket won't go between them & the plug.

Quote:
That intake belly pan gasket
I'd rather avoid this work, randomly replacing parts can be a huge waste of time. It looks like its 4+ hours to get this off & back on. Bare in mind that this truck is 12 years old and lived most of its life plowing snow in New England. Very little of it is not badly rusted. Even unclipping the fuel supply line to the rail will be a nuicance because the steel lines are rusted.


If it were sensor that is part of the ECU, wouldn't it throw an OBDII code if it was not working properly?
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:19 AM
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when the truck is idleing rough does it make a loud whistling sound coming from the back side of the TB if it is i would say the culprit is prob the IAC
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Old 12-09-2011, 03:23 AM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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I used a pair of vice grips and a hammer on the heat shields. You could pre-lube the day before with generous amounts of WD40 or something along those lines. I had some come out without the hammer. A good crimp with the grips collapsed them enough that the just slid out, but they were relatively clean.

Old Magnums have bad plenum gaskets. Count on it. No way around it. Without a doubt the worst thing ever put on a Mopar smallblock, but a great way to drive business through the service dept isn't it?

If the sensors have 50k miles or several years on them, code or not, they're on borrowed time. And no, you can't always count on a MIL light or a code.
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:29 PM
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Update and more questions:

Replaced the distributor, cap, rotor and ignitor intergral to the distributor.

Replaced the Idle Air Control

Truck will run when the motor thinks it is cold or when it is cold. By unplugging the temp sender behind the alternator it runs the same regardless of how warm it gets. It doesn't idle smoothly, it studders a bit, but at least it will run and most of the time when it stalls it will restart as long as the temp sender is unplugged.

I've tried looking for vacuume leaks and found none.
- with the engine idleing I've sprayed water all around the intake manifold. No change.
- with the engine idleing I've sprayed carb cleaner all around the same areas, the only result was catching the whole mess on fire! (whereas when I spray a little bit onto the thottle plates the motor gets worse)
- a vacuume gauge shows about 18mm mg at idle for the intake plenum
- with the motor running, unplugging the vacuume line located on the RH side of the intake has zero effect on how the motor runs. It still studders and runs rough.



It seems that if it had a manifold leak, the symptoms would get worse by creating another leak by unplugging a vac line. And/Or by spraying water or carb cleaner on it, the liquid would get sucked in and you would see a difference in the way the motor runs.

Thanks
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:14 PM
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Did you ever solve this problem. I'm having the exact same thing with an '01 3500. I've replaced crank sensor, coil, distributor pickup and still no change. Runs ok until it warms up. Then backfires, sputters and loses power.
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:15 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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I had a similar issue and it turned out to be the temp sensor. Went to unplug it and it fell apart. I think it cost $15.00 and took about 2 minutes to change.

The problem is that it senses zero to infinite ohms and has no clue what to tell the ECM.
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