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Heating & Cooling 4th Gen Dodge Ram Heating & Cooling Problems and Questions.


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  #11  
Old 04-18-2018, 09:49 AM
Slydog76 Slydog76 is offline
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Thanks again for your response, I do have a question for you seeing how your familiar with auto AC systems. I had a guy ask me if the dealer that briefly had my truck remove the oil from the AC system. As far as I know the only way to remove oil from the compressor is to remove the compressor, remove the plate on the back and pour it out, am I right about this? As far as my knowledge, you can not or should ever flush a compressor and you can't turn all the oil into vapor so I should still have about 3 ounces in mine seeing how just the condenser was damaged. The reason I ask is I plan on working on my issue this coming weekend and I want too make sure I'm right about the oil in the compressor. I could take the compressor off and see but if I'm right about removing oil from the compressor, I would just be adding unnecessary time to my project. Thank you for your time and comments
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  #12  
Old 04-18-2018, 12:02 PM
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alpinegreenneon alpinegreenneon is offline
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You could ask the dealer that had it apart how far they disassembled it. I would guess they just had the condenser off. The only way to be absolutely sure is to drain the compressor and measure how much is in there. Draining would involve removing the lines and the plate. Turning the compressor from time to time and letting it drain at least over night would be most accurate. There should be a little less than 3 oz since you can't get every drop to drain and there will be some oil left in the plumbing. When you have the condenser removed, measure how much oil is in there as well. As with the compressor there will be a little less because you can't get every drop to drain.
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Old 04-18-2018, 12:37 PM
Slydog76 Slydog76 is offline
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Thanks for the response. The dealer took none of the components of the AC off, just the grill to expose the condenser. This is why I think the oil is still in the compressor, just wanted your opinion. I had someone else tell me the same thing with the condenser, he said when I get it off see if any oil is in it, if there is then odds are really good the compressor is full.

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  #14  
Old 04-20-2018, 05:13 PM
Slydog76 Slydog76 is offline
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Got good news and bad news as far as fixing my AC goes, the good news is oil dripped from the first line I removed from the condenser. Big relief in knowing oil is still in the system, to me that’s better than good news, that freakin awesome! The bad news is the parts store gave me the wrong condenser so I will have to wait a little longer. Thanks again to all who posted, I will update again when I get the right condenser.
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Old 04-27-2018, 10:02 PM
Slydog76 Slydog76 is offline
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Got the right condenser today and installed it, I do want to help anyone thinking of replacing their condenser by sharing a bit of info. The transmission cooler is built on top of the condenser so make sure you use new clean plastic bags to catch the transmission fluid. When you pull out the trans line, put a bag over both the line and cooler hook up and zip tie them. Not only does this keep you from making a mess, it also makes it easier to keep your transmission fluid level correct. The new 8 speed transmissions in Chrysler, Dodge and Rams have a complex way of checking fluid levels. The plug is on the side of the transmission but don’t be fooled in thinking it’s like checking dope in the rear axle. The temp of the oil has to remain below a certain temp, you have to go through a process with the vehicle running where you put it in reverse for a few seconds, put it in drive for a few seconds then remove that side plug to make sure the level is correct. If you change the cooler then you may have to warm the vehicle up to normal operating temps because some makes have a value that opens when the fluid is hot and if your cooler is empty then you get the idea here. My point is, if you catch all the fluid from the removed lines and drain the cooler, collecting that fluid will save you a lot of trouble later on. Add that fluid back to your cold transmission and you should be fine. If you happen to spill or lose that fluid during your condenser/ trans cooler change, then you have a timely task in front of you, plus the fluid is over $35 a quart. In my case I collected it all and tomorrow I will add it back then start my task of pulling a vacuum on my AC and check for leaks and if all goes well add my refrigerant and finally get my AC working again.
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Old 04-30-2018, 10:03 AM
Slydog76 Slydog76 is offline
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Default R1234yf Legal to use or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ramboxhemi View Post
PAG oil is all synthetic. The PAG 46 will do. My question to you is: How do you know if there is any oil at all left in the system? the issue of concern is created when you pull into the bay at the garage. You see, by law, the technician literally owns all the refrigerant and oil in your system. Did he do a recovery or did it all leak out? If it was a leak, and it was in the condenser, there is no way of knowing how much oil leaked out with the refrigerant. I'll get back to this point hopefully.
Normally, a tech doing the repair would have an automotive recovery machine. This type of machine will use clean vapor from the tank it is pushing oily liquid into. Do this for a while, the system is flushed of the oil and an oil charge and a refrigerant charge will be weighed in. This is the only way to get the exact oil and refrigerant charge! Any other way is short-changing yourself and hoping for a compressor replacement too. If you cannot do a 100% pristine job of removing air and moisture, even the evaporater core will pinhole from the acid produced.
Now, the law lets citizens buy R-134a. It does not allow you to work with 1234yf. This might be of concern to you.
Have you noticed that cars and trucks just don't have as many A/C problems as they used to? Most of it has to do with the fact that people who shouldn't be touching your system don't. Remember when oil change places would sell A?C recharges yearly even though a system never touched is better than one that is "topped off"? Bite the bullet and have them change the desiccant, evacuate and recharge the refrigerant by weight and be done with it. I know, I'm a DIY guy too. I hate to let the dealer touch my baby.
In this response RamBoxHemi brought up a topic that I couldn't shrug off, is it legal for a shade-tree mechanic to buy and use R1234yf? I did some digging and turns out it is as long as its under 2 lbs of refrigerant. I will paste what the new 2018 guide lines are below.

Thanks RamBoxHemi
New Certification Requirements for Buying R-1234YF

New government regulations went into effect January 1, 2018 that require all technicians and persons who are servicing R-1234YF A/C systems to be Section 609 certified for refrigerant purchases of more than two pounds. If you buy less than two pounds of refrigerant you do not need the 609 certification, but if you want to buy more than two pounds you have to take the 609 certification test.
Another change is that small cans of refrigerant (less than two pounds) must now have self-sealing valves to prevent unused refrigerant from escaping into the atmosphere.
Information about taking the 609 Certification test can be found on the MACS website.
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