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Custom Chassis - Drive Line - Suspension - Wheels and Tires - LOWERING or STANDARD Discuss anything related to Custom Dodge Ram Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension Mods, Chassis Mods and Tuning, Towing options, Driveline, Differentials, Sway Bars, Lowering Springs, Strut Braces, etc.


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Old 07-05-2019, 09:52 PM
Archie340 Archie340 is offline
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Default Cutting coil springs to lower front

Hello friends,
I want to lower my 2012 Tradesman 4wd a couple inches all the way around. Cutting the front coil springs has been mentioned. My question - when you cut the spring, you take away the flat part of the spring where it sits in its cradle. Also, what did you use to cut the spring?
What is put on the spring and/or cradle so the cut spring sits flat in the cradle???? Maybe someone has a pic of a spring that they cut??
Thanks people!!
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Old 07-06-2019, 06:49 PM
truckracinpartsguy truckracinpartsguy is offline
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DON'T DO IT !!! doing that ruins the spring rate and the ride quality will suffer. Buy lowering springs if they make them for a 4x4 and depending how low you want to go make sure you check your shocks for the right amount of travel. Make sure you get an alignment afterwards. I'm not sure but you may need an adjustable track bar also depending how low you go.
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Old Yesterday, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archie340 View Post
Hello friends,
I want to lower my 2012 Tradesman 4wd a couple inches all the way around. Cutting the front coil springs has been mentioned. My question - when you cut the spring, you take away the flat part of the spring where it sits in its cradle. Also, what did you use to cut the spring?
What is put on the spring and/or cradle so the cut spring sits flat in the cradle???? Maybe someone has a pic of a spring that they cut??
Thanks people!!

The only type of coil spring that can be cut is a spring with a tangential end. I am pretty certain the front coils go flat on both ends. Look at the video below.



https://proxy.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=h...efault.jpg&f=1




I've cut springs before. Never use a torch! Too hot. A 4.5" cutoff wheel works great, but you can use a hacksaw. Measure the spring with a flexible tape like a seamstress uses. Say you want about a full coil off you measure the coil to that point, I.E., if that measurement is say 14" or what ever you will be taking the same off the other side.



If you cut flat end coils it turns them into tangential coils and they won't seat correctly any longer. On most upper ends of the spring seat there is a rubber seat the spring sits in. If you go from flat spring to tangential the spring will eat the heck out of that rubber seat in no time.
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Old Yesterday, 11:26 AM
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I don't even know, where to start or where to end. If I would start, the Ramforumz would need a bigger server.


That's why I don't even start to write something about one of the stupidest "question" as it was not even a question IF.


Even worse, that people even answer, that they've done it- I just walk out of this topic.
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Old Yesterday, 11:26 AM
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you are way better off buying shorter springs than you are cutting the springs. too many variables and who knows what it's going to ride like, or if it's even level when you're done.

don't forget depending on how much you lower the truck, you may also need new shocks. aftermarket does have lowering kit options available for 2500s...
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Old Yesterday, 11:57 AM
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Edit* on a 2500 lowering options are limited to coil replacement/modification.
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Old Yesterday, 12:42 PM
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He answered his own question when he mentioned cutting the flat side of the spring. That's a no-no. Cutting a tangential spring is actually okay. The only issue with it is your spring rate will be changed. The spring rate is determined by both the diameter of the coil material and the linear length of the coil. I.E., a coil that uses 10' of steel will have a different rate than a coil that has 8' of the same material.

Not all coils can be or ever should be cut. Tangential coils can.



If your spring looks like this it can be cut safely to get an inch. They will only stand up by themselves on one end.


If it looks like these it's a no no.





Most springs today are cut or ground off flat on the top so they fit into a rubber piece to eliminate noise and help with road shock. At the bottom end of the spring there is a depression in the a arm for the spring to fit in. Most all springs today are shaped like the last picture where the bottom is like the top and flattened out. It still fits into the spring seat, but if you cut them the angle of the coil to the spring seat is wrong. You can check those springs by standing them up on end. They will be wobbly but they can stand by themselves. Can't cut them. No way to stand up a tangential spring. It can be cut.



Springs can be cut and have been for years. But only certain type of springs. I am not sure what a 4X4 1500 uses for springs. On my old 2009 1500 2X4 CC the rears could not be cut as they would tear up the rubber insulator.



And for obvious reasons you can't put a tangential spring in an application where there was a flat spring. That is a no no.
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Old Yesterday, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob1340 View Post
He answered his own question when he mentioned cutting the flat side of the spring. That's a no-no. Cutting a tangential spring is actually okay. The only issue with it is your spring rate will be changed. The spring rate is determined by both the diameter of the coil material and the linear length of the coil. I.E., a coil that uses 10' of steel will have a different rate than a coil that has 8' of the same material.

Not all coils can be or ever should be cut. Tangential coils can.



If your spring looks like this it can be cut safely to get an inch. They will only stand up by themselves on one end.


If it looks like these it's a no no.





Most springs today are cut or ground off flat on the top so they fit into a rubber piece to eliminate noise and help with road shock. At the bottom end of the spring there is a depression in the a arm for the spring to fit in. Most all springs today are shaped like the last picture where the bottom is like the top and flattened out. It still fits into the spring seat, but if you cut them the angle of the coil to the spring seat is wrong. You can check those springs by standing them up on end. They will be wobbly but they can stand by themselves. Can't cut them. No way to stand up a tangential spring. It can be cut.



Springs can be cut and have been for years. But only certain type of springs. I am not sure what a 4X4 1500 uses for springs. On my old 2009 1500 2X4 CC the rears could not be cut as they would tear up the rubber insulator.



And for obvious reasons you can't put a tangential spring in an application where there was a flat spring. That is a no no.


This description is the reason, why they have vehicle inspections and prohibit the vehicle to be driven back on the road, when spring manipulations are performed- Guys- IT'S AN ABSOLUTE SAFETY HAZARD INCLUDING CHANGING THE WAY THE VEHICLE HANDLES AND PERFORMS, POSSIBLE CAUSING HARM TO OTHERS, DUE TO DIFFERENT REACTION IN ALL PERFORMANCE STAGES, SUCH AS BRAKING, ACCELLERATING, DRIVING IN CURVES, UNEVEN ROADS, ETC- if you want to have it lowered, spend the money for approved kits. If you don't have the money, you have to live with it. I did safety inspections and I had the authority to impound vehicles for safety hazards- and I've done it more than once and never was wrong.


Manipulating the suspension and anything within the axle geometry without proper, approved parts is a driving hazard, where the operator can loose control over the vehicle in situations. which would be absolutely not harmful, bringing his and everyone else's life in danger.


DON'T DO IT.


I just can say- if something happens to me or my property due to someone manipulating his vehicle, I'd sue the hell out of him. The 5 minutes before the accident are the last 5 minutes he ever was happy in his life, till the day he dies. This is not a warning or a threat- that's a promise. And every insurance company thinks the same- as well as every judge. There are things, you can do and things you can't. cutting a spring- regardless what kind of- even if you think, you can- it's an illegal manipulation and praying for god's grace after something happens will not get you out of it. Trust me in that.
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Old Yesterday, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guy65 View Post
This description is the reason, why they have vehicle inspections and prohibit the vehicle to be driven back on the road, when spring manipulations are performed- Guys- IT'S AN ABSOLUTE SAFETY HAZARD INCLUDING CHANGING THE WAY THE VEHICLE HANDLES AND PERFORMS, POSSIBLE CAUSING HARM TO OTHERS, DUE TO DIFFERENT REACTION IN ALL PERFORMANCE STAGES, SUCH AS BRAKING, ACCELLERATING, DRIVING IN CURVES, UNEVEN ROADS, ETC- if you want to have it lowered, spend the money for approved kits. If you don't have the money, you have to live with it. I did safety inspections and I had the authority to impound vehicles for safety hazards- and I've done it more than once and never was wrong.


Manipulating the suspension and anything within the axle geometry without proper, approved parts is a driving hazard, where the operator can loose control over the vehicle in situations. which would be absolutely not harmful, bringing his and everyone else's life in danger.


DON'T DO IT.


I just can say- if something happens to me or my property due to someone manipulating his vehicle, I'd sue the hell out of him. The 5 minutes before the accident are the last 5 minutes he ever was happy in his life, till the day he dies. This is not a warning or a threat- that's a promise. And every insurance company thinks the same- as well as every judge. There are things, you can do and things you can't. cutting a spring- regardless what kind of- even if you think, you can- it's an illegal manipulation and praying for god's grace after something happens will not get you out of it. Trust me in that.

I think the same, we are on the same plain of thought. Anyone who puts in spacers or cuts flat springs or those tapered eyelet type springs is just nutz. But I seriously doubt an inspector of any sort could look at a tangential spring that has had 1/2-1 coil cut off and even tell if it was cut. I totally agree anyone who cuts half the spring off, 4-5 coils, is just stupid. In my mine's eye many of the kits that are available can ruin the ride. What the heck is an approved kit? I can order a 8" lift kit right now for about any pickup that I know will drastically affect the handling. Are these approved kits?



I wager the lift has changed the factory handling characteristics.






I can't tell you or the OP what kind of spring the front of a 2011 4X4 1500 has. I don't know what sort of spring the 2WD has either up front. I know the rear of the 4th gen 1500 has flat springs and are not to be cut. My '08 4X4 has a coil over type setup. Those can't be cut. My '74 D250 had tangential springs up front. I put a huge Perkins diesel in it and had to put some heavy duty 1 ton springs in. It sat a couple inches too tall. I cut out a coil and it was perfect for over 130,000 miles. Never lost control once. Rode great.



And those lawsuits over "manipulating" a vehicle usually go no place unless it was something like a guy running 6' tall tractor wheels down the street or something like that. You'd be spending a lot of lawyer money on something that would go on forever and eventually just fizzle out.



And like I said, I can't think offhand of any current model vehicles that still use tangential springs.
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Old Yesterday, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob1340 View Post
I think the same, we are on the same plain of thought. Anyone who puts in spacers or cuts flat springs or those tapered eyelet type springs is just nutz. But I seriously doubt an inspector of any sort could look at a tangential spring that has had 1/2-1 coil cut off and even tell if it was cut. I totally agree anyone who cuts half the spring off, 4-5 coils, is just stupid. In my mine's eye many of the kits that are available can ruin the ride. What the heck is an approved kit? I can order a 8" lift kit right now for about any pickup that I know will drastically affect the handling. Are these approved kits?



I wager the lift has changed the factory handling characteristics.






I can't tell you or the OP what kind of spring the front of a 2011 4X4 1500 has. I don't know what sort of spring the 2WD has either up front. I know the rear of the 4th gen 1500 has flat springs and are not to be cut. My '08 4X4 has a coil over type setup. Those can't be cut. My '74 D250 had tangential springs up front. I put a huge Perkins diesel in it and had to put some heavy duty 1 ton springs in. It sat a couple inches too tall. I cut out a coil and it was perfect for over 130,000 miles. Never lost control once. Rode great.



And those lawsuits over "manipulating" a vehicle usually go no place unless it was something like a guy running 6' tall tractor wheels down the street or something like that. You'd be spending a lot of lawyer money on something that would go on forever and eventually just fizzle out.



And like I said, I can't think offhand of any current model vehicles that still use tangential springs.


Approved means, they are developed, tested and approved by highway department for use, as they fulfill minimum requirements.


I know, there is a state to state difference- here in SC, you can do, what ever you want with your vehicle- but if something happens and they can prove, the vehicle was tampered with non- legal parts or manipulation, a tragic accident will turn into murder charges.
Beside no insurance will pay for anything- even if it was not your fault- it will be in the moment.
If you check the same vehicles over and over again, you usually know, what to look for.
I understand the urge to modify and personalize your vehicle- I'm all for it- beside that it looses in value, when you sell it- I'm all for it. But do it right or leave it.
And we're not in the 70's no more, where even the factory setup was sometimes catastrophic and there was not much left to make it worse.
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