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HD RAM - GENERAL DISCUSSION For 2500, 3500, and 4500 General Discussion.


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  #11  
Old 06-05-2019, 04:18 PM
Darkbloodmon Darkbloodmon is offline
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Originally Posted by farside2500 View Post
I'm not sure how you would get better mileage then what you are already seeing. All that "stuff" they sell that they "say" will increase mileage is just a way for them to separate you from your money. If you make changes to the transmission gearing you will loose mileage in other areas based on driving conditions or towing. If you wanted good mileage you should have bought a 4 cylinder car, or maybe a Prius? Diesels do seem to give you the best mileage in a truck that I've seen so far, but the higher cost of diesel might cancel out any major benefit (haven't done the math). But then again, we don't buy these things for the mileage ability.



I didn't realize the thread was about upgrades to the motor/tranny.
Thanks for your input.
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  #12  
Old 06-05-2019, 04:42 PM
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guy65 guy65 is offline
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Originally Posted by Darkbloodmon View Post
Noted, I do plan on getting in contact with a local diesel shop down the road to have them do a general health run through on the engine to get a better idea of where it stands as well as dropping an oil analysis by black stone lab. CP3s aren't timed you can clock them but its hear say since repair manuals don't mention the procedure or the effects, which is one of the reasons why you can double pump and belt drive it. Thanks you for your input though, I do appreciate it.


Save the money for the lab work- just make an oil and filter change. Waste of money.
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  #13  
Old 06-05-2019, 04:47 PM
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battlerattle battlerattle is offline
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Originally Posted by Darkbloodmon View Post
Fass DDRP was made back in 10' it supply's 16-18psi but no gauges yet. Haven't tore into the injectors yet to check, just running Lucas through the system. Going to check them out when I adjust the lash. Gear ratio I'll have to look into anyway to check by vin? Any way to check weather its CAD or not? I had it on the lift yesterday and was messing around with it while it was in neutral. Gear ratio recommended for daily driver? The cruising speed on the hwy is a good bit low given im used to 75-80mph economy drops off anything over 60mph and over 2KRPM.
You can submit your VIN thru Mopar and get your build sheet.


Use this link without the quotes and obviously your VIN where it says:
"https://www.dodge.com/webselfservice...PUTYOURVINHERE"


CAD is Central Axle Disconnect. On the passenger side if there is an actuator on the back side of the tube its CAD, if not its just a standard axle. If you are turning 2000RPM or more above 60mph then it is probably geared 4.10-4.56 range. Great for towing, crappy for mileage. 3.50-3.90ish seem to be much better for mileage (not as great towing).
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  #14  
Old 06-12-2019, 08:12 PM
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RipVan RipVan is offline
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Originally Posted by Darkbloodmon View Post
Stock engine besides intake and 4" exhaust no cats, no emissions systems (if your driving behind me you'd best use recirculate). Im getting 17.2 city(consistently) no straight hwy runs since the trip from the dealership which was 23.4 on back roads around 50-60mph which is the ideal cruising speed around 1500-2000 rpms. This is all as is from the dealership. I've only changed the fuel bowl filter and re oiled the air filter the old inline one from the DDRP needs to be replaced.
My '04 2500 Quad Cab with the 5.9 CTD gets similar mileage. About the same on the highway and a bit better in the city. Motor wise I believe it to be generally stock. I do have a K&N air filter tho. My exhaust is configured in a similar fashion too. While I don't generally "punch it", if you're behind me when I do, ya, roll up the windows and push the "recirc" button.

I remember once reading that the best milage for a particular vehicle will be obtained if you pretend that there is an egg between your foot and the "gas" pedal AND try not to break it!!! I generally avoid Interstate driving and try to keep my speed under 60mph on the highway. I use the "cruise control" most of the time. I DO use a fuel additive (PowerService). "Gray" bottle except in the Winter when I switch to the "White" bottle". Shell Rotella T6 synthetic.

Every once in a while I get the felling that I should buy a "tuner" or something else someone has suggested to "improve" my MPG. Usually tho, I just lie down until that feeling goes away.

If we look at $/mile instead of MPG, many of the mods that supposedly increase MPG will also increase $/mile and likely result in a net loss! Just sayin'.
RipVan
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