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  #1  
Old 05-30-2019, 10:22 PM
BigRedLonghorN BigRedLonghorN is offline
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Default Gasket manifold leak

Hello all!
I was recently told that the hemi tick I've been hearing over the past few months is related to a gasket manifold leak. My brother-in-law has offered assistance to undertake the repair. Depending on what he finds is actually causing the issue - I've been told it could be broken bolts, warping of the manifold, etc. - I wanted to take the opportunity to perform any mods/upgrades while making this repair.

Can you all suggest what might be modifiable while repairing the gasket manifold leak?

One thing I suspect is that the cold air intake must be removed to access the gasket.

Thank you all for your help!!
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  #2  
Old 06-01-2019, 09:59 PM
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Default Upgrades

I have the same noise. Looks like he same deal. If I decide to swap out, and I may not, I would probably upgrade to shorty headers. I'll stop short of rec'ing them because I don't have them. But that is what I would do...get shorty headers. You won't want to reinstall OEM ones.

IF you haven't already, I would YouTube the manifold issue. Worst case, I think you would have to weld a nut to the broken bolt in order to extract it, best base, part of the stud is sticking out enough that would allow you to get some vice grips on it and extract it that way. Driver side work is harder than the passenger side because the steering shaft and a dipstick is in the way on the driver side.
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Old 06-02-2019, 02:38 AM
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Old 06-02-2019, 12:04 PM
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Default

I had the same issue and installed a set of shorty headers as the fix.
If you buy more manifolds from Ram they will eventually just do the same thing.
I also installed a Magnaflow cat back side exit stainless exhaust upgrade.
All work was done in my driveway at home.
I had 2 broken studs on passenger side rear... They were broken flush or slightly sub flush in the block. I drilled and used a easy out and some heat to warm the aluminium block up to help expand it.

If yours is a 4x4 the biggest headache was the oil dip stick tube.. What a pain in the ass! Dodge uses a braket to hold the tube in place that is encapsulated behind the motor mount. Either you remove the motor mount and a ton more brackets and shields for the 4x4 or just cut it.

I cut mine and now cant get the tube to stay seated.... Ah but atleast no more ticking and the truck sounds great.
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:29 PM
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Default I'm having this same issue

Like it says, I believe I'm having the same issue. I haven't dug into it yet to see the extent of the issue, so I'm not sure if it's broken studs, cracked manifold or both even.

Anyway, I'm not sure if I want to tackle this issue myself. I certainly don't have welding skills or a welder for that matter if the studs are broken, so I think it's going to go to a shop. The interesting thing is, once the engine heats up the noise almost goes away completely. I'm guessing the metal heats up and expands enough to close whatever gap exists.

My questions are:
1) Is this something I should take care of right away to avoid any further damages/issues?
2) What kind of money (ballpark) should I expect to pay?
3) Is it worth spending the extra money to have short headers installed rather than just put it back stock.

Thanks.
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixtime View Post
Like it says, I believe I'm having the same issue. I haven't dug into it yet to see the extent of the issue, so I'm not sure if it's broken studs, cracked manifold or both even.

Anyway, I'm not sure if I want to tackle this issue myself. I certainly don't have welding skills or a welder for that matter if the studs are broken, so I think it's going to go to a shop. The interesting thing is, once the engine heats up the noise almost goes away completely. I'm guessing the metal heats up and expands enough to close whatever gap exists.

My questions are:
1) Is this something I should take care of right away to avoid any further damages/issues?
2) What kind of money (ballpark) should I expect to pay?
3) Is it worth spending the extra money to have short headers installed rather than just put it back stock.

Thanks.

You're right as to why the noise goes away when it heats up. As for your questions:


1) if you leave it be then you'll probably break more as having one broken increases the stress on the other bolts. You may have slightly less power and mileage due to decreased exhaust scavenging. Worst case ever is you run the engine really hard with a really bad leak (like the manifold is not held tight to the head because you have several broken bolts) and you burn an exhaust valve. That said, you'll be fine for a few weeks while you shop around.


2) My dealer charges a little under $250/side which includes replacing the gasket and stuff-mostly parts cost. They are pretty reasonable on labor but high on parts. I've had one break in 95,000 miles FWIW. Independent shops will probably be cheaper depending on what shops you have available. My manifold was not warped and so was not replaced-I think by now it has enough heat cycles through it that I'm not worried about that.


3) Stainless shorties should solve it, but be sure to wrap them as they will increase underhood heat, especially towing
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