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Hey all,

I just bought a new trailer for my racecar and wanted to hear some feedback regarding towing with a 1500. Trailer is 28' and loaded will weigh about 8000lbs. I have a 2015 1500 crew cab sport with 3.21 rear; 35x12.5x20 tires, tow/haul, brake controller, rancho quicklift front suspension.

Basically more concerned with stability, will I be blown all over road by passing semi's? Will rear springs be able to handle the load for long trips (1000+ miles)?

Thanks
 

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Quick look at the Ram towing guide and 8000lbs is the max a stock truck can pull, with the mods(bigger tires/lift) I would say you are pushing the limit and would probably be pushed around a bit on the highway.
Your definitely going to want to get a weight distribution hitch, move some of that weight to the front axle.
 

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I tow a utility trailer, 18 foot, loaded with 6,000 pounds of tractor/backhoe with my 1500 with 3:21 axels. I carefully load the trailer so the proper amount of tongue weight is present. I don't have any stability issues or any other towing issues.

You have a raised truck with over-sized tires with a high axle ratio towing a weight load likely over or borderline to your trucks ability. You do not say how far and how often you will be towing but it sounds to me you have a dangerous combination factoring in the need of a drop hitch just to keep the trailer level.
 

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Quick look at the Ram towing guide and 8000lbs is the max a stock truck can pull, with the mods(bigger tires/lift) I would say you are pushing the limit and would probably be pushed around a bit on the highway.
Your definitely going to want to get a weight distribution hitch, move some of that weight to the front axle.
Not sure where you got that; max is more like 10k with 3.92s and 8600 with 3.21s. I would tow it with my truck if it were really 8000 lbs and I had a WDH; 8k is about the max of what I'd tow regularly with a 1/2 ton-but I am also on stock size 33s.

I towed a 23' trailer that I bet is similar and power was not an issue, but I should have balanced the weight better and a WDH would have helped with sway. At one point the load shifted and I ended up blowing a shock. This one was 8500lbs and also before I added the tuftruck springs





 

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Shoot one foot with 3.21 then the other with 35" ATs then ask how you are going to do in a foot race. Your saving grace is the outstanding 8 speed. The truck will do it in the flatlands just be willing to take your time.. or kill your truck before it's time.

Assuming the trailer is reasonably loaded ie with weight centered over its axles. At 8,000 pounds with a level trailer, level truck & WDH you will have a tongue weight of about 1,000 pounds and it should transfer enough weight off your drive axle to your steer & back to the trailer axles so that you should be within all your weight specs ie axles, CVWR, receiver, GVWR. Without WDH you will likely be over on two or three of them. And will likely be driving something that should you have to make emergency maneuvers to avoid an accident will leave you upside down backwards in a ditch.

Do yourself your equipment & everyone else on the road a favor and get a decent anti sway WDH. Etrailer is a good place to shop. Blue Ox Sway Pro & Eqalizers are good brands. Probably want at least 1,200 pounds bars. Last & in this case a GREAT compliment to the hitch for a paragraph worth of reasons axle to frame air bags such as TLC or Timbergrove. Now it will be safe ride & drive decent and not stress/wear your equipment any more than it has to. Still be a lil weak suck fuel & you will wish you had 3.92 & shorter road tires rated for towing but it will do the job. PS spend the 10 bux & weight it before & after setting the WD bars at the truck stop CAT tripple scales. Verify each axle load & the total weight. Our axles are rated at 3,900 each, check you CVWR. Fwiw (not a lot) your GVWR is usually 6,950. You also want to make sure your steer axle is at least 75 percent of your drive axle for emergency maneuvers.
 

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Shoot one foot with 3.21 then the other with 35" ATs then ask how you are going to do in a foot race. Your saving grace is the outstanding 8 speed. The truck will do it in the flatlands just be willing to take your time.. or kill your truck before it's time.

Assuming the trailer is reasonably loaded ie with weight centered over its axles. At 8,000 pounds with a level trailer, level truck & WDH you will have a tongue weight of about 1,000 pounds and it should transfer enough weight off your drive axle to your steer & back to the trailer axles so that you should be within all your weight specs ie axles, CVWR, receiver, GVWR. Without WDH you will likely be over on two or three of them. And will likely be driving something that should you have to make emergency maneuvers to avoid an accident will leave you upside down backwards in a ditch.

Do yourself your equipment & everyone else on the road a favor and get a decent anti sway WDH. Etrailer is a good place to shop. Blue Ox Sway Pro & Eqalizers are good brands. Probably want at least 1,200 pounds bars. Last & in this case a GREAT compliment to the hitch for a paragraph worth of reasons axle to frame air bags such as TLC or Timbergrove. Now it will be safe ride & drive decent and not stress/wear your equipment any more than it has to. Still be a lil weak suck fuel & you will wish you had 3.92 & shorter road tires rated for towing but it will do the job. PS spend the 10 bux & weight it before & after setting the WD bars at the truck stop CAT tripple scales. Verify each axle load & the total weight. Our axles are rated at 3,900 each, check you CVWR. Fwiw (not a lot) your GVWR is usually 6,950. You also want to make sure your steer axle is at least 75 percent of your drive axle for emergency maneuvers.
With a WDH 12.5% is high, maybe without; with a WDH it should be more like 10% or 800lbs on the tongue. A trailer that size also has trailer brakes so stopping isn't a huge concern. If he didn't have the big tires he would probably not be over on any weight spec; the receiver is rated to 10,000lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the feedback so far! looking into getting airbags in rear, any suggestions on best ones to get???


Thanks
 

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Thanks for all the feedback so far! looking into getting airbags in rear, any suggestions on best ones to get???


Thanks
I'd suggest stronger springs over airbags. When you reach the maximum compression of a bag it does not allow any more movement which is like not having a suspension at all. With springs they can flex until they hit the bump stops which also have some give to them so the interaction between the frame and axle isn't as harsh
 

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I generally like 10 percent better but 12.5 is more typical as to what I have seen on the scales with level truck & trailer and what I have seen hitch manufacturers reference. But I do far more TTs than cargo or enclosed car hauler trailers.

I didn't make any reference to stopping the trailer. Agreed shouldn't be an issue. He has Trailer brake controller which is helpful.

Level trailer level truck tire height doesn't come into play with respects to receiver & axle ratings but whether or not it has a WDH does as does to a lesser degree axle to frame air bags at least with axle weight because they can shift weight some. Receivers have a max tongue weight rating as well as a max tow rating. With no WDH no air bags & a little front bias in an 8,000 pound trailer he can quickly get over his axle & tongue weight ratings.

I like the stronger springs you have but you must not have used the axle to frame air bag set up like I referenced as they replace the bump stop and only a Darwins award winner would ever bottom them out. You must be thinking of Timbrens.

The stronger springs & the bags would work well together but it's rather overkill with the axle limit of the 1500 and they are both secondary in value to having the WDH so all three is well as said somewhat overkill. They do have some different benefits but it's still mostly overlap. Certainly you could use either with the WDH and have a dramatically improved set up over stock.

15blackout, As referenced in my above post TLC (total load control) or Timbergrove. Airlift also has the 5000 series but they are more expensive & IMO unnecessarily involved with respects to the install.
 

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I towed about that weight moving from Tennessee to Kansas, with a standard cab 4.7L ram. Weight distribution hitch was The only way it worked at all, and in my opinion sway control is NOT optional when at the limits of the trucks ability.

Another thing you should be able to do is have easy access to the trailer brake controller override if you have a load shift and the trailer starts to wag the dog the only way you make it out is to throw on the trailer brakes and keep your foot off the truck brakes.
 

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Another thing you should be able to do is have easy access to the trailer brake controller override if you have a load shift and the trailer starts to wag the dog the only way you make it out is to throw on the trailer brakes and keep your foot off the truck brakes.

This is one reason I really like the newer factory brake controllers; they are below the radio and HVAC controls, so it's easy to access rather than having something mounted on my left side by my knees.
 

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Sway control is standard now and built into the TCS; with a Hemi and 8 speed power should not be an issue.

The OEM trailer brake is absolutely the way to go
 

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I don't think he was referring to the trucks sway control. He meant get a WDH with sway control. As in my other post I agree that the WDH should have it for 8,000 pounds 28' and flat side of an enclosed trailer. In part why I suggested he look at the Blue Ox Sway Pro.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the feedback everyone!

Probably should have included in initial post that I have a WDH and OEM brake controller. Also trailer is mostly loaded in front, especially if I back dragster in. Most of my towing will be less than 150miles, with the occasional long trip to NJ, NC, or MD.
 
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