DODGE RAM FORUM banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I drive a procharged 2015 Ram 1500 4x4. I did the eFan swap and clutch fan delete. Lately at idle it's been getting pretty hot (230 or so) if I'm just sitting for about 20 minutes. When it drives it's fine and never goes above 199. I'd set the fan to turn on cooler (probably 180) but I had a shop tune my truck and I'm afraid of screwing up that tune with my diablosport tuner.

I've heard vastly different things about a 180* thermostat. I've heard some say it keeps the engine temps lower and that increases overall efficiency, makes your engine run better and longer, and they've had no problems.

I've also heard some say that it's an old trick that worked on older engines and it doesn't work on modern engines, and the engineers know what they're doing and everything needs to run around 195 or 203 or it's gonna mess with the oil and make it get into parts of the engine you don't want it to get in, or the thermostat is gonna open too soon and the coolant won't have enough time to cool your engine or whatever.

I'm not an engineer, so any honest experienced feedback would help. Sorry if this has been talked about before, I couldn't find a straight answer proving or disproving the negative things.

Edit: do the results of the thermostat vary from brand to brand?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
312 Posts
I have a procharged 2014. I just combed through my old emails with the tuner (Sean at Hemifever Tuning) to see why he recommended a 180 t-stat for my truck. The only thing I found was he said the 180 t-stat and catch can would make the tune more efficient. I added both those items and he tweaked the tune a couple more times until it was optimal. That was before the procharger install. During the install I asked him for his recommendations on all the other stuff that needed to be changed (injectors, plugs, map sensor, etc.). He did not say anything about the t-stat. I believe he would have told me to change it if it was going to be an issue. I'm under the impression that a cooler operating engine can make more hp up to a certain point. Sorry I'm not a mechanic or engineer, this is just my experience in the matter. Hopefully Stryker responds, I'm sure he can explain it in more detail.




I forgot to mention he had me set the 3 efan settings to 189 with my diablo.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
34,750 Posts
230 at idle? Yikes, that's what I get pulling a trailer up a 7% grade in the Summer time.


The T-stat won't help much if you're grille shutters aren't open, have you done anything with them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
230 at idle? Yikes, that's what I get pulling a trailer up a 7% grade in the Summer time.


The T-stat won't help much if you're grille shutters aren't open, have you done anything with them?
I removed them so I could install the intercooler from the procharger kit. As of right now, they're sitting in my garage.

What could help then? Getting better cooling fans? Getting the current v6 efan to come on earlier? I'm not sure how to do that without taking it to the same tuner. Any tips are appreciated.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
34,750 Posts
When is the e fan programmed to come on? I am not a proponent of removing the clutch fan on a truck, but I am not familiar with where you have to mount the charge cooler. The clutch fan does take up a lot of room
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When is the e fan programmed to come on? I am not a proponent of removing the clutch fan on a truck, but I am not familiar with where you have to mount the charge cooler. The clutch fan does take up a lot of room
I assume the fan is programmed to come on at like 208 or 212 or something. The cooler goes in front where the grille shutters used to be, between the radiator and grille. I still have the clutch fan so I'll probably just put it back on. I don't think minimal efficiency gains are worth worrying about my truck overheating at idle. It also only seems to happen when my truck is parked, if that helps clear anything up with anyone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,097 Posts
The stock programming turns the fan on at just over 220, which either way should be enough to keep you under 230. I think you have other issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,248 Posts
I've heard vastly different things about a 180* thermostat. I've heard some say it keeps the engine temps lower and that increases overall efficiency, makes your engine run better and longer, and they've had no problems.

I've also heard some say that it's an old trick that worked on older engines and it doesn't work on modern engines, and the engineers know what they're doing and everything needs to run around 195 or 203 or it's gonna mess with the oil and make it get into parts of the engine you don't want it to get in, or the thermostat is gonna open too soon and the coolant won't have enough time to cool your engine or whatever.
Many rumors float the automotive forums. I don't have first-hand information but I do know a few things you should consider.

The engine needs to be at operating temperature for the emissions system to work as it should.

Engine lubricants are designed to provide their best at their designed operating temperatures.

Lowering the operating temperature of the engine should be studied so you will know what may be affected.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update: After a conversation with my tuner, he said that while not exactly necessary, he absolutely would recommend a 180* t-stat if it's a forced induction set up. Also said something about the intercooler blocking some airflow to the radiator, which made enough sense.

I got the thermostat in, and it seemed to work fine at first, holding the temps between 179 and 190, but not for long. It seemed like my V6 e-fan was failing, so I just swapped my factory e-fan and clutch fan back in, and I haven't had any issues with cooling since. It stays steady between 185 and 192.

And just a tip for anyone that hasn't done this yet, do it BEFORE you install a procharger. The back thermostat bolt comes ALMOST all the way out but then hits the procharger bracket. It turned a 20 minute job into a 4 hour and a late night trip to walmart for dremel bits job.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top