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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 5.2 Sport that while driving sometimes (especially when it's hot outside) the engine shuts down and I'll have to pull to the side and sometimes it will start right back up and sometimes I'll have to wait 5 to 15 - 20 minutes till it will start up again. I so far replaced the idle control valve sensor and throttle sensor. Next I'm going to replace the crankshaft position sensor and the ignition coil and the camshaft sensor, just keep replacing these things till I fix it. If someone knows how to fix this I'm all ears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is it dying at RPM or when you are off the throttle?
I think both usually when I'm moving I think its happened a couple times at a stop light. It seems to happen because it's hot outside I go to work fine but my truck sits in the Texas sun all day, I live only 12 minutes or so from work sometimes a few block away the engine just dies no stutter really just out and everything else is on like the radio but the gauges all drop too. It started happening last summer and then when winter came and the weather cooled it stopped and now its summer again its starting to do it now almost every time on my way home from work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had this happen to me a lot when "getting off the throttle" and it turned out to be my IAC valve (Idle air control). Went through 3 cheap ones off amazon before I finally got a duralast one with a lifetime warranty. Haven't had a problem since.

This was a writeup I did on it. Truck dies immediately after start (won't idle)...
Nice I'm glad to hear you fixed it must be a awesome feeling. I bought a cheap IAC and Throttle position sensor replacing the them did fix my idle issue which the rpms would kind of jump up and down a little when idle.
In my case I'm confident it's the heat from the sun I go to work with no issues in the early morning when its cooler but after my truck sits out in the Texas summer sun for over 8 hours it dies while driving on the way home (which is only 12 to 13 minutes away). I do not have any insolation under my hood, I just bought some on Amazon should be here by Monday I'm hoping this will help in till I can find exactly which part or sensor is getting to hot that it tells my truck to shut off. I'm assuming it's the pcm. which I'm going to buy soon on eBay from the "flashmasters" (put this # in the eBay search bar to see the pcm I'm going to get "185125677584" ). But for the mean time I'm still going to try replacing other parts like the ignition coil and crankshaft sensor soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would replace the crank sensor first(assuming the rest of the ignitions system is sound) and don't buy whatever you find. Get either oem mopar or Delphi brands, Don't by anything BWD(junk!)
Will do thanks!
I found Delphi brand at O'reillys i'm going to buy, expensive for 80 bucks!
But from what you say it's worth it. :)
BTW What about Master Pro brand is this a good brand?
here's the link to it.

And here's the Delphi brand im going to get.

 

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I would not replace the crank position sensor because it was an absolute ass to get on and off. 90% of the time I really don't think it's the issue, you'd be having way worse symptoms if that was an issue.

I had originally thought this might have been the problem. I did a bench test video of it here if you are interested.
 

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BTW What about Master Pro brand is this a good brand?
Have no idea who makes that, Never heard of it.
90% of the time I really don't think it's the issue
Well the engine can not start/run with out a crank signal. And it can cut out and come back while driving(and not set a code) so it can be hard to isolate unless you have a scanner that reads live data and you see it happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Are you getting any DTCs or have any freeze frame data from the shutdown? If it's all blank then it's the PCM. Don't have to keep firing the parts cannon at it.
I get no codes.
It happens especially when it's hot and i have seen it flash for a second "NO BUS" on the mileage so ya i'm going to replace the PCM soon for sure.
 

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I guess it could be the PCM, but could also be the wiring at your DTC hook-up??? I would just check all possibilities before condemning the PCM as they are not cheap to replace. Remember that one messed up ground can wreak havoc on electrical stuff, especially with the computerized stuff they put on these days-
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I guess it could be the PCM, but could also be the wiring at your DTC hook-up??? I would just check all possibilities before condemning the PCM as they are not cheap to replace. Remember that one messed up ground can wreak havoc on electrical stuff, especially with the computerized stuff they put on these days-
Ya it's going to cost $170 on eBay (the cheapest I could find) for the PCM with it programmed but I'm willing to folk over the money especially if it fixes it.
It's amazing to me we are in the 21st century and we can't pin point what this issue is, i notice alot of people having the same issue some fix it some still trying to figure it out it's weird to me.
But I strongly think it's the PCM but i guess there's only one way to find out. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Before you go dropping $170 on a new PCM (which I highly doubt is the actual issue), can you please list out what you have replaced / what troubleshooting measures you have already taken?
I've replaced the crankshaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, ignition coil, new fuel pump, new battery, new alternator, replaced the Idle control valve sensor, Throttle position sensor, checked fuses, going to put insolation under the hood since the original got old and fell off that's why i also think its the PCM because it gets really hot in the Texas sun. I've had it scanned with a expensive scanner with no codes but seen it flash a "no bus" on the mileage which tells me that it most likely is the PCM.
 

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When are you getting the new PCM? You'll have to let us know if changing it out worked. Have you checked the grounds, wiring harness connections under fuse box, DLC connector wires to the PCM. Does your truck have an ASD relay fuse? No Bus sounds like lost communication. Check continuity of your DLC wires one at a time with no power on or you could mess up your DMM. Do you have a DMM?
 

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When are you getting the new PCM? You'll have to let us know if changing it out worked. Have you checked the grounds, wiring harness connections under fuse box, DLC connector wires to the PCM. Does your truck have an ASD relay fuse? No Bus sounds like lost communication. Check continuity of your DLC wires one at a time with no power on or you could mess up your DMM. Do you have a DMM?
I'd agree with Hagman. Very hot temps could lead to intermittent connections either in the dash or under the hood. My father has had some issue with that in the past on an older car out in the Arizona heat.
 
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