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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
When are you getting the new PCM? You'll have to let us know if changing it out worked. Have you checked the grounds, wiring harness connections under fuse box, DLC connector wires to the PCM. Does your truck have an ASD relay fuse? No Bus sounds like lost communication. Check continuity of your DLC wires one at a time with no power on or you could mess up your DMM. Do you have a DMM?
I'm having trouble finding the ground wire or wires is there a way you can direct me in a general area if you know where i can look?
(first time doing this)
 

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Your battery ground (black) wire probably goes to the side of your engine block. You probably have another ground (black) wire going to your chassis (frame). You also probably have more than one ground point inside or near you dash- these grounds probably have multiple ground wires attached to a single eyelet. Your PCM ground wires are multiple wires attached to an eyelet and are usually located on the firewall in engine compartment. Most grounds are held in place by a bolt or similar threaded fastener. Ground straps (woven) sometimes have just clips that attach to thin wheel wells, etc.... All of that being said, it's best to remove the grounds, clean up the contact areas with emry cloth, sandpaper, etc. to create a clean mating surface, then apply small amount of oxy-guard or dielectric grease on the cleaned surface and then tighten the wires back up. On another note- have you disconnected your PCM wiring harnesses and inspected the male pins and female sockets for any bent pins or pushed in sockets?
 

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Wouldn't hurt to inspect grounds and closely look at the pins/terminals on the plugs at the pcm. A "no buss" is a communication problem with the pcm(could be the pcm or just conection problem to it). If you can hook up a scanner that is reading live data and take it for a drive till stalls then you might tell what's going on.
 

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Another thing that is easy to do is check for a short that may be affecting your DLC Bus wires. To do this, find out which PCM wire harness the DLC wires run to and disconnect it at the PCM. Next, get a test light and attach the alligator clip to the Battery (+) post red wire on the battery. You may need to run an extended wire from the test light wire to reach the Battery (+) post. After attaching the test light, simply probe the Bus wires at the DLC connection. If the test light illuminates, that tells you there is a short somewhere on that wire and you can either do a continuity (leap frog) test to determine the location of the area effected or just spice into the bad wire and run a new wire. Do you have a multimeter and/or a test light? As far a wiring diagrams go- Mitchell1 has a plan- I think I pay around $29/year and you have access to all the diagrams which in my opinion are good wiring diagrams. They are black/white diagrams, but are good.
 

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Yeah- take those off and sand and clean the surfaces, put some oxy-guard grease on and tighten back up. While your at it, looks like your battery post could use a little preventive maintenance checks too with cleaning as well. You should have a ground or two near the PCM- get a pic of them too. Also check inside and under dash area. Them little Billy bastards are in some unseen areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yeah- take those off and sand and clean the surfaces, put some oxy-guard grease on and tighten back up. While your at it, looks like your battery post could use a little preventive maintenance checks too with cleaning as well. You should have a ground or two near the PCM- get a pic of them too. Also check inside and under dash area. Them little Billy bastards are in some unseen areas.
Is it possible you can pass me a link to some oxy-guard grease? What brand do you recommend and where?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
That will work
This is what i got to clean the ground ends this cool?
Also should I remove the negative terminal on the battery before i do this?

"BTW I already bought the PCM it should be here tomorrow." ;)
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The brush and dielectric grease is what you need. Brake parts cleaner is to spray your brake drums, calipers and rotors so you would not need it for cleaning the grounds. Its not necessary to remove the negative battery cable to clean other grounds. Let me know when you get your new PCM in- good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The brush and dielectric grease is what you need. Brake parts cleaner is to spray your brake drums, calipers and rotors so you would not need it for cleaning the grounds. Its not necessary to remove the negative battery cable to clean other grounds. Let me know when you get your new PCM in- good luck
I should be receiving my PCM today in the mail I was wondering is there anything I should know or do before and after installing the pcm?
For example should i disconnect the negative battery terminal before installing it or both terminals?
And should i take it for a drive after installing it or let it run for a bit?
Thanks :)
 

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MrDreamers-
I would recommend disconnecting the Battery(-) prior to hooking up the wire harnesses to the new PCM as 14Vern mentioned. This will prevent you from inadvertently shorting something that could possible damage your new PCM. Let us know how it goes after you hook it up. If it works, and the truck starts, let it idle for a little while and listen for any weird noises and also check the interior dash/lights, ect... to make sure all is working good- good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
MrDreamers-
I would recommend disconnecting the Battery(-) prior to hooking up the wire harnesses to the new PCM as 14Vern mentioned. This will prevent you from inadvertently shorting something that could possible damage your new PCM. Let us know how it goes after you hook it up. If it works, and the truck starts, let it idle for a little while and listen for any weird noises and also check the interior dash/lights, ect... to make sure all is working good- good luck
Just replaced it started right up! :)
I let it idle for about 5 minutes give or take no unusual noises at all idle was good nothing wrong to me :)
Now the real test is to take it to work tomorrow let it sit in the Texas sun for 8 hours and drive it home usually it would stall out half way home everyday but we will see tomorrow.
But so far so good.
You think its cool now i can drive it or should i let it sit till i go to work tomorrow?
The pic shows its been replaced i guess before.
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Yeah- thats cool- it sounds like its idling pretty good. I heard Texas has got some major heat wave as we here in WV have been hot/humid for a while. When you get a chance, you should clean up the other battery cable and put some grease on that too. How far is work fro the house? Id take it to work and see how she drives- Im waiting on a part (WIN module) that I just ordered from Auto Tech Electronic in Laredo, TX to get here for my 2010.
 
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