[MrDreamers]

Yeah- thats cool- it sounds like its idling pretty good. I heard Texas has got some major heat wave as we here in WV have been hot/humid for a while. When you get a chance, you should clean up the other battery cable and put some grease on that too. How far is work fro the house? Id take it to work and see how she drives- Im waiting on a part (WIN module) that I just ordered from Auto Tech Electronic in Laredo, TX to get here for my 2010.

Work is not far about 10-13 minutes or so and ya the heat is sucking the life force out of me can't wait till the holidays when it starts to cool down. I'm going to clean the other battery terminal at work tomorrow. Thanks again for your help I hope you fix your vehicle as well. I'll keep ya updated on my progress.
BTW If this pcm fixes my problem then ill be moving on to the next thing i need to fix which is the ac where the 2 hoses go into the ac compressor motor i think it is where it has that one bolt the metal part where the screw goes in to hold the hoses down is broke. I'll gets some pics and vids later most likely make another thread.

 

[HagMan]

Yes- let me know how the drive to work goes. The heat wave is real crazy and I guess Lake Meade in NV is drying up too. I wonder if you took the A/C lines off in the pic above and applied some JB Weld to the cracks might help? Talk soon and stay in the A/C when you can-

 

[MrDreamers]

Yeah- thats cool- it sounds like its idling pretty good. I heard Texas has got some major heat wave as we here in WV have been hot/humid for a while. When you get a chance, you should clean up the other battery cable and put some grease on that too. How far is work fro the house? Id take it to work and see how she drives- Im waiting on a part (WIN module) that I just ordered from Auto Tech Electronic in Laredo, TX to get here for my 2010.

Well on my way back from work i stopped at subway while ordering my truck stalled out again but i started it right back up and made it home without it stalling again so I'm assuming the pcm didn't fix it unless it is learning to not do it perhaps? like when i replaced my idle control sensor because my rpm's would hop up and down alot but after I replaced the ics the rpm's did not stop hoping around right away but it did a day or 2 later. is this a possibility? or did the pcm just didn't do the trick?

 

[HagMan]

That sucks- I'm not sure why but something is going on? Can you hook up a scanner and see if any codes pop up. Did you by chance change out the distributor lately?

 

[MrDreamers]

That sucks- I'm not sure why but something is going on? Can you hook up a scanner and see if any codes pop up. Did you by chance change out the distributor lately?

No but I tried replacing the cam sensor (Distributor Ignition Pickup Coil Assembly) as part of troubleshooting this stall issue with a cheap eBay one but it would not start the next day so i scanned it and it came up saying it was the cam sensor so i put back my oem one back and it started right up. I tried scanning it before but nothing comes up i guess i can scan it again with the new pcm in wouldn't hurt.

 

[HagMan]

That would be a good idea just to see. Also, check your main coil wire that it's good-(meaning, check ohms from end to end) and make sure it's fitting snug on both ends.

 

[MrDreamers]

That would be a good idea just to see. Also, check your main coil wire that it's good-(meaning, check ohms from end to end) and make sure it's fitting snug on both ends.

Well today when I got in my truck to go home from work the check engine light came on so when I got home I used my cheap amazon 16 dollar scanner and scanned my truck but it picked up nothing.
Before no check engine light ever came on with this stalling issue but i think after the pcm replacement it might be picking up something my cheap scanner can't pick up.
You think a better scanner might? Should i goto O'Reillys and get them to scan it maybe there scanner might pick something up?
If it does hopefully it is the stalling issue that the reason the check engine light is on.

 

[HagMan]

Yeah- go to O'Reillys and see if their scanner can get a code. Have you tried pulling out the PCM fuse and put back in? Im not sure if that would even help?

 

[MrDreamers]

Yeah- go to O'Reillys and see if their scanner can get a code. Have you tried pulling out the PCM fuse and put back in? Im not sure if that would even help?

I was not aware it had a fuse never seen one on it i can look though.

 

[HagMan]

Im not sure if it does, but you can check and see

 

[Moparite]

Disconecting the battery will do the same thing, But get it scanned first! If you disconect power the code goes away and you wont know what it was for.

 

[MrDreamers]

Im not sure if it does, but you can check and see

Sorry family was in town very busy, anywho the next day I was going to goto get it scanned for the check engine light but that morning it went away
But a few days later it comes back on so I right away take it to a quick lane auto place down the street from me but the guy said no codes are found the only thing he said was the catalytic converter look a little funny I guess on the scanner but didn't seem to say it was anything serious other than that still stalling sometimes on the way home from work. He mentioned maybe clean my o2 sensors or replace them might be a possible fix. He said it would cost $112 for a complete diagnostic to see if they can find out what's wrong with it that is if they can find anything
This is the same place that didn't fix my brake pedal going to the floor they ended up replacing the brake booster awhile ago. I ended up figuring it out myself by researching and finding out it was the brake module and pump which I bought from a junk yard for 50 bucks and had I trusted repair guy install it and that fixed it.
You think it could be the o2 sensors? Should I give them a good cleaning? If so what should I use to clean them?
Never did it before.🙃

 

[HagMan]

MrDreamers-
Im no Master Tech but I know for a fact if the O2 Sensors start getting dirty or clogged, it can really mess with engine performance- this is a fact. If it were me, I would buy new O2 sensors and put them on myself. This way, you save money, learn something from replacing them yourself, self-satisfaction of not having to get ripped off at a shop or dealership and finally- you are the one doing the work, so if something gets messed up, there's only one person to blame. I have not replaced an O2 sensor in years, but remember it was pretty easy when I did. The only thing that might be a bitch is getting the old one to screw out without breaking the threads in half, best to spray some WD40 or Blaster on before you go to loosen them.

 

[Moparite]

guy said no codes are found the only thing he said was the catalytic converter look a little funny I guess on the scanner but didn't seem to say it was

Check engine light wouldn't come on if there wasn't something that set it off. Did he look at live data with the truck running when he "looked" at it. Might take somewhere else to get better details.

 

[HagMan]

Moparlite has a good point. Remember that alot of so called "Techs", not all, will tell you things that they want you to hear. A good honest technician that is not into ripping someone off these days is becoming rare. As always, it's good to get a second, third and sometimes fourth opinion. If you do some research and look a videos on you tube, take some notes. Ive taken alot of notes and put them on word docs to be printed and put in my electrical measurements binder as reference. Let me tell you, it is real handy to have such a reference. Just saying-

 

[Billy2003]

Has this issue been fixed?
I also have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 sport having the same issues. I have tried 2 different PCM’s, i have replaced crank shaft sensor, cam shaft sendor, the battery, map sensor, Ignition coil, relays, checked all fuses. Distributor cap and the button. I do get Odometer codes 920,921,999. Truck will run for 15-20 minutes then it will just shut off gas gauge freezes. After sitting for awhile it will start and do the same thing over again. I am going to look at the speed sensor since that is what the 930,921 codes are pionting at.

 

[MrDreamers]

Has this issue been fixed?
I also have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 sport having the same issues. I have tried 2 different PCM’s, i have replaced crank shaft sensor, cam shaft sendor, the battery, map sensor, Ignition coil, relays, checked all fuses. Distributor cap and the button. I do get Odometer codes 920,921,999. Truck will run for 15-20 minutes then it will just shut off gas gauge freezes. After sitting for awhile it will start and do the same thing over again. I am going to look at the speed sensor since that is what the 930,921 codes are pionting at.

Not entirely buts its been about a week or so since it stalled I'm still working on it. It has lately been turning the engine check light on and off every couple days or so for example it was on for about 4 or 5 days or so then just the other day it went off and getting it scanned comes up with no codes i'm going to take it to someone with a better and more expensive scanner perhaps that might pick up some hidden or non generic codes and also scan with live data but now i have to wait i guess till the light turns back on. The light only started coming on tho a few days to a week after replacing the pcm.

 

[billyreaves]

After trying 3 different pcm’s all having the same issues of shutting off. I found a youtube video on repairing the pcm by re-soliding several parts inside the pcm. That fixed my dodge. The hard part was removing the rubber jell inside the pcm. Been driving everyday no more stalling. youtube link for repair. I hope this helps you out.