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Problem Solved.

I bought a 2013 new and had the same 2000RPM problem. Many trip to the dealer and the problem persisted for over a year. I Finally had a free night and was fed up so under the truck I went.

I know im late on this thread so im not sure if someone else has already addressed it but I didnt see answer on last two pages.

Any one still looking for an answer??
 

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Problem Solved.

I bought a 2013 new and had the same 2000RPM problem. Many trip to the dealer and the problem persisted for over a year. I Finally had a free night and was fed up so under the truck I went.

I know im late on this thread so im not sure if someone else has already addressed it but I didnt see answer on last two pages.

Any one still looking for an answer??
So what'd you do to fix it?
 

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Alright I'll first describe my symptom a little better. Shortly after purchasing my truck it started with this symptom where it would have a metallic rattle just before each shift point, or roughly 2000rpm. Each time I took it to the dealer for warranty repair of rattle it was either "Unable to replicate" which is a poor excuse for WE DONT KNOW HOW TO FIX IT or they would work on it but at best would just change the RPM or harmonic Frequency which the rattle would occur.

Ok I'll keep it short. Its a design flaw.

Right below and to the rear of engine the exhaust collectors join into a single point. After that there is a roughly 4' piece of straight exhaust pipe. Holding these two things together is a u-bolt. This u-bolt is captured on top by a small piece of metal which is welded on one side to the straight pipe, and is formed around the u-bolt in effect capturing it. The 2000 RPM rattle is the other end of this small piece hitting the u-bolt clamp. By hand it doesnt move much if at all but under load is just the right frequency.

The simple, quick, free, fix is just a matter of taking a large screw driver or small prybar and bending the end of the clip up and away from the u-bolt clamp.

Hope this works for you.
 

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Alright I'll first describe my symptom a little better. Shortly after purchasing my truck it started with this symptom where it would have a metallic rattle just before each shift point, or roughly 2000rpm. Each time I took it to the dealer for warranty repair of rattle it was either "Unable to replicate" which is a poor excuse for WE DONT KNOW HOW TO FIX IT or they would work on it but at best would just change the RPM or harmonic Frequency which the rattle would occur.

Ok I'll keep it short. Its a design flaw.

Right below and to the rear of engine the exhaust collectors join into a single point. After that there is a roughly 4' piece of straight exhaust pipe. Holding these two things together is a u-bolt. This u-bolt is captured on top by a small piece of metal which is welded on one side to the straight pipe, and is formed around the u-bolt in effect capturing it. The 2000 RPM rattle is the other end of this small piece hitting the u-bolt clamp. By hand it doesnt move much if at all but under load is just the right frequency.

The simple, quick, free, fix is just a matter of taking a large screw driver or small prybar and bending the end of the clip up and away from the u-bolt clamp.

Hope this works for you.
My vibration is not related to a rattle or noise, it's felt in the floorboard, accelerator pedal, and the steering wheel.
Its definetly a design flaw though.
 

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my truck still has 2000 rpm vibration in gas pedal and steering wheel on cold mornings and on hot days has a clunk feel in gas pedal and steering wheel. Chrysler wont fix it. dealer replaced intermediate steering shaft and it didn't fix it. this truck has issues from the very first day I bought it feb 1 2014 and even to this day july 9 2015 it still has the same issues.
 

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my truck still has 2000 rpm vibration in gas pedal and steering wheel on cold mornings and on hot days has a clunk feel in gas pedal and steering wheel. Chrysler wont fix it. dealer replaced intermediate steering shaft and it didn't fix it. this truck has issues from the very first day I bought it feb 1 2014 and even to this day july 9 2015 it still has the same issues.
2013 4x4 crewcab 5.7. Yes I too had this problem. Took it Wilsons Chrysler dodge in SC, just below Richburg. Stated issue to service manager. He basically said it's the ECO mode running on less than 8 cylinders. Of course that's B.S., and that's what I told him, politely. He called me 30 min. later and said,"there's really something wrong.", Yeah I know!.

They fixed with a computer update, torque converter issue I think. Smooth as a Cadillac?.....Towncar?.......uh Cordoba?

Anyway since then I've bought the Trinity T1000 and could have done it myself. Get one, There awesome!
 

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I had the problem but it has not reoccurred for over a year. I think they essentially never really acknowledged it was a problem and in fact it isn't one mechanically just annoying. I am pretty sure they fixed it with a software update (they seem to do one about every other time I take it in for oil changes) That software update probably ever so slightly changed something small (mechanical/spinning) that changed the frequency of interacting parts that was causing a harmonic resonance that resulted in the annoying vibration.

I some ways, it is a testament to Deming and six sigma like approaches that a company can create what are in effect highly complex widgets (yes your truck is a widget) so exact that a "defect" of that type is replicated in the vast majority of produced products (outputs).

"Six Sigma seeks to improve the quality of the output of a process by identifying and removing the causes of defects (errors) and minimizing variability in manufacturing and business processes."
 

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https://www.dropbox.com/sc/lhuaoh038mwucx2/AABSbXpdYVIe5Io-B1L5ZbBPa. In response to a PM. I believe this is the flash number that the dealer used on my PCM to take care of the vibration problem also increased my gas mileage.
do you have 6 speed or 8 speed? wonder if it will work for 2014 8 speed? I have had 2000rpm vibration since feb 1 2014, the day I bought the truck, Chrysler says its the characteristic of the truck. they wont fix it. wonder if this is a new update? thank you Dan
 

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I have taken it to 6 different dealers. some refuse to feel it, some feel it and tech says he feels vibration and has determined it is the characteristic of the truck. I have work order saying that. another dealer tech felt it, says he will contact STAR , he called next day and STAR told him to tell me it was the MDS and torque convertor working together and it is normal. he disagreed with STAR and told me his hands are tied and cant help me. he was driving and we were going up a slight grade. HE said MDS will not cut 4 cylinders going up a hill. he was kinda pissed they even said that.
 

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MDS usually won't cut cylinders going uphill, but if its already engaged it can stay on when going uphill. Depending on the length and grade it usually kicks back into 8 cylinder mode.
 

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It was discussed a lot two years ago. It is in the torque converter on the 8sp trucks. I drive for Enterprise and I find many cars with the 2000 rpm vibration. Most of them with the cvvt trans. There is a balancing problem with the lock up converters. I guess Dodge tries to avoid the fix.
 

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I've got a 2016 Sport CC short box 3.92s and the 8 speed and I have this issue as well, it almost feels like a rolling vibration or pulsing vibration, hard to say. Its going to the dealer on tuesday for a bunch of other issues and I'll bring this one up as well. The truck currently has 1100kms on it.
 

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Has anyone found a fix? Ive noticed the vibration just at 2000 rpm right before it shifts to the next gear. Seems to do it every shift when at a 2000 rpm shift point. I dont notice at all when it shifts at a higher rpm such as when giving it more gas.
 

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I just got my truck back from the dealer and they said its normal, I drove another brand new one as well and it did it too. in a few minutes im going to try to put some double sided foam tape under where the gas pedal mounts to the bracket and see if that makes it go away.
 

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I just got my truck back from the dealer and they said its normal, I drove another brand new one as well and it did it too. in a few minutes im going to try to put some double sided foam tape under where the gas pedal mounts to the bracket and see if that makes it go away.

Did the tape make any difference?
 
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