DODGE RAM FORUM banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been dealing with this issue for years. I finally had enough.


I ordered a new fan motor and a new fan motor regulator switch (ceramic control switch next to blower motor).


First, I removed my seats so I would have an easier time getting under the dash (I am a big guy and last weekend it was 100 degrees here in Missouri). Next I removed the blower motor (filled with leaves) and the switch (broken ceramic insulator).



I knew that the A/C coil needed to be cleaned and planned on attempting to clean it without removing the HVAC box. However, I did not care for that method. Instead, I went with the more difficult way lol. So I proceeded to take apart the dash. I unclipped all wire connections and removed everything I could from the dash, so I would be able to pick the dash up my the metal frame. I did not want to risk the plastic frame breaking any more than it already is.



I had another person to help me lift the dash off. Then proceeded to remove the HVAC box. This meant depressurizing the A/C lines and removing both the condenser coil lines and the heater core lines.


Once the HVAC box was out, I unscrewed the top from the bottom and pulled the unit apart. To no surprise the inside was full of debris (the kind mama Mopar could avoid with a simple cabin air filter). I cleaned the inside with mild dish detergent mixed with a little Fabreze. I soaked the coil with an aerosol variant of a coil cleaner, then sprayed that off with water and cleared it with compressed air.


Re assembling the box wasn't a difficult, but you need to be careful you have the blend doors (none of which were broken, thank the Lord) post lined up with the holes. We installed the HVAC box back on the firewall lining each hole up, one-at-a-time. I reinstalled all the hoses and made sure I had the vacuum lines where they needed to be.


The dash was next. Although it is not that difficult to do, it was stupid hot and we had no shade. Needless to say we were exhausted. Nevertheless we persevered and wrestled the beast, emerging gloriously victorious!



The next day I began piecing the accessories back together and reconnecting wires. Once everything was back, where it belonged, I turned the key to accessory. My heart sank as I realized air was only coming out of the defrost vent. Then, an epiphany! Since I had disconnected my air control lines, there would be no air in the lines until I let the truck run and create the vacuum pressure to fill said lines.


Alas, I had air coming from any vent I chose with enough force to feel them from the back seat! The next move was to recharge my freon. I simply used one of the can you can get from any auto parts house. I shot a little to get the compressor to kick on, then continued to pull the trigger every time the compressor cycled. At first it was just a second or two, then 3 or 4, until I had filled up the system.



I gave it a few minutes to cycle. Then, hesitantly, checked to see if the air in the cab was cold. It was nice and frosty in there. I decided I would go ahead and install my seats with my air on lol.



Trouble came, on my way home. I notice coolant leaking on to my floor board. I knew immediately that I had failed to get the clamps, for the heater coil, in the right position. A few years ago, my heater coil and radiator took a dump on me in the middle of January, in well below freezing temps. When I replaced the heater core, I was not messing arounf with the extra long fixed aluminum tubes, so I cut them down and ran new heater hose inside the cab.


I knew this leaking heater hose problem had to be fixed, ASAP. This time, I would simply undo the crucial bolts/nut that secure the dash. With some careful prying and maneuvering I was able to get my gorilla-mits back there to adjust the hose and hose clamps (not the screw type). Viola, the deed is done. I have great air movement, cold A/C, and I have no doubt come winter...I will have heat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Great writeup big mike!!! If ya have debris build up in the future, try backflushing the evap core with the drain that sticks outta the firewall. Short bursts with a hose worked great for me. Yes, it won't get the bigger debris, but it'll get the binding schmutz out fer shore.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top