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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I want to start off by saying I did this over the course of a few nights after the kids went to bed, so not as much time as I would like. I have also never carpeted a box before, last one I did for the trunk of my car I did in spray in bed liner, so take it easy on the carpeting job. That being said, here is what I came up with.

I removed the center seat and used the seat mounting brackets to bolt the box in place. So the first thing to do was to remove the center seat and get the dimensions for the mounting holes.



Next I drew up an idea of what I wanted and cut out the pieces and threw it together so I could put it in and see how it looked. I wanted it to have the sub firing downward so that it is protected and out of the way. I also wanted it to replace the lower portion of the seat and still use the back part of the seat on top of it since I like using the storage compartment and as an armrest.






When I was happy with how it fit and everything I did the final assembly. Since I only had a little bit of time each night I wanted to get it at least glued together so it could cure over the next couple of days while I finished it. I have heard that some sealants can release vapors harmful to the speakers surround while it cures, and while I don't know the truth in this, no reason to take a chance. Here it is all glued and screwed. I also added some polyfil to the inside of the box at this time. I think I went a little overboard on the screws though.






Next I started wrapping the box in a kind of velvet material. Unfortunately It was the closest color I could find. The rear seat brackets are at a slight angle going upwards towards the front so I knew I would have a second layer of MDF on the front brackets, so I used this as the place to put my seam. I really had no idea what I was doing with covering this box. And on one side I cut the fabric too close. This is the only part of the box I am not really happy with, but was at a loss for how to do it better. I will probably redo it soon since it isn't perfect. You can also see one set of bolts. I drilled a hole and sealed them in with Liquid Nail from the inside. So when I tighten the nut on it it should theoretically keep it sealed. For the piece for the front bracket I used tee nuts and screwed the bolts up into them.


 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
And here is the finished unloaded box.







Here it is ready to be installed.




And here are some of it installed.







If you have any questions feel free to ask. It went pretty smoothly and only really had one issue. I just centered the sub up between the 4 bolt holes. however, there are 6 bolts on the seat. The back bracket has 2 seats of bolts on each side and my method of centering the sub didn't take into account the additional size of these brackets. I had to cut off about 1 square inch of inside on the bracket to clear the subwoofer. Not too big of a deal, but it was an issue I had. I also added some rubber washers when I mounted it so I didn't have all of the vibrations going to the seats. In the end I am really happy how it turned out.

Victor
 

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what are the dimensions of the box? I want to figure out how much airspace you got. I did this exact thing for my 2008 F150 I use to have and my buddy did one for his 99 Ram 1500 at the same time. I am considering doing this again for my 06 ram or doing a custom box under my back seat for 2 12" subs now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They are kind of weird dimensions since the top and back slant. But going off of memory is is 1.325969 cu ft before the subwoofer's displacement. The box is 15" total in width, the bottom is 22" long, the top is 24" long, the front is 10" tall and the back is 9" but slanting back at a 75 degree angle. I also added a strip of 3/4" mdf where it mounts to the front mounting holes. This brought the angle to where when I used the existing arm rest it was level. If you have any other questions I will be more than happy to try to answer them.

Victor
 

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Thanks Victor, I am trying to decide to stay simple like that and use an Alpine Type R again or go big and use one of my Diamond Audio TDX12D2 subs and make it pound. That box size is perfect for a 10" alpine type r ported. Ive used that airspace in many applications with those subs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm currently running a 12" Type R in it with a old Kicker KX1200.1 pushing it and am pretty happy with it. I am drawing up a new one though that will be built to better suit the Type R vs. the cheap Pioneer I made this box originally for. It will also be ported and carpeted better to match the interior better.

Victor
 

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Looks real nice!

it is silicon that releases the vapors that can hurt the glue use on the spiders of a sub btw.

its alway a good idea to let everything dry before throwing the woofer in tho
 

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I'm currently running a 12" Type R in it with a old Kicker KX1200.1 pushing it and am pretty happy with it. I am drawing up a new one though that will be built to better suit the Type R vs. the cheap Pioneer I made this box originally for. It will also be ported and carpeted better to match the interior better.

Victor

Do you use computer software for your design? I use an oldy but a goody, NAME Pro Box 5.0. It's been around for years. It's always done me right. Although two boxes I built I had some cancellation issues. One was the box I built for my '08 F150. Sounded good, but seemed mild until you opened a door and wow it pounded. Same thing with a box I built for a Dodge ram extended cab. Same sub, same box size and tuning. Same issue. I guess these two trucks didn't like the frequency I tuned the box too.

I used the same subs in a regular cab dodge ram, same 1.3 cu.ft. and same 32hz tune and WOW it was amazing. Guess Maybe I should try staying away from 32hz on my new 06 ram. Any experience with cancellation on these newer dodge quad cabs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did not use any software. Just some measurements, sub specifications and lots of math. I wanted to be able to still use the arm rest part so there were certain measurements I had to use and just played with others until the volume was what the Pioneer sub wanted.

Victor
 

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Well, I removed my center seat today and found out my airbag control module is mounted under it. Do you know if anyone else had this issue and had any issues relocating the module?
 

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Well, the box is almost done.. its getting vinyl on it today.


Kerfing didn't work too well for me so I used Hardboard and water and layered it to get my curve.









 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks good. Make sure to post some pictures after its all done before installation and after.

Victor
 

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Looks good. Make sure to post some pictures after its all done before installation and after.

Victor
Thanks. I thought it was going to be done last night. But when I got to my moms house I found out she cut the back wrong. I was going to fold the back over to the sides so the seats hide the seams. But she cut it too short. So now I'm trying to figure out the best way to finish the back.

Hopefully I'll get it done tonight.
 

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Ok folks I have a 2004 Quad and was going to do this also. The question is ported or sealed ? Going to use a 10" sub not bought yet also how did you mount the arm rest/cushion to the box ? 4 mounting holes in the box ?
 

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Looking at a JL 10wov3-4 10" sub I have a 300/4 JL amp that is gonna be powering the sub and my 6x9 front speakers, the rear speakers i'm gonna keep running off the head unit. for the amp it requires .65 for a sealed box
 

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I have a ported1.25 cubic ft box tuned to 30hz. I have a Skar vvw10 sub in it. It's
Powered by a JL Audio 500/1. It fills the space between the seats & runs from the
Point where the seats are at all the way back to the cup holder. It hits real hard & deep.
I have Exodus Audio Anarchy 6.5 mids & Morel M 12 tweeters in the doors. A USAmp Merlin 42 drives them. I have a Alpine 9887 hu. I use the crossover in it to run my 3 way active system
It's very loud for a single 10 sub but the Anarchy mids get very loud too. They move 12 cm one way. They weigh 8.5 lbs each. Great mids for the price. The M12 tweeters work great with them
 

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I just finished changing my front stage speakers. I used Tymphany H25TGD5-04 1 inch titanium tweeters with wave guide & SoundQubed QP-MR6.5 Mids. They sound fantastic. They are louder than any 6.5s I ever owned & stay clean to unbelievable levels. The tweeters fit in with them very well. I need to add another sub to go with the output they have. I Used the 8 ohm drivers I had in the truck to build a pair of 2 way speakers for the surround sound system in my shop. I have 4 with this pair of drivers my center front & rear speakers are a pair of Pioneer 6x8 three way speakers 2 in each box running at 8 ohms My amp needs 8 ohm drivers. I have 1/10 inch MTX jackhammer subs driven bu a earthquake 300 it makes them pound My shop system is loud as hell & very clean. It fills my 30x40 shop with plenty of music. My truck is much louder with the new drivers. They are 4 ohm which lets my amp put out twice as much power than the 8 ohm drivers did. 90x4 is plenty for these speakers. THe 6.5s are rated 100 RMS continuous 200 Peak & the tweeters 150 RMS The 6.5s go to a much higher level 100hv to 10khx than the old drivers making them work better with my tweeters. I may build a ported box for 2 /10s & use 2 SoundQubed HDS10s in it.
 
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