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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I've got a 2009 1500, 5.7 Hemi that has developed a strange ticking at idle.(Not the exhaust manifold bolts, I've already been through that ordeal) The sound fluctuates in volume while it's sitting there idling and you can't hear it in the cab or when driving. It's only at low idle. It seems like it's coming from beneath the truck and when I'm in a drive thru it's pretty annoying. If I bump up the RPMs to 900 at idle, in park, it will quiet down greatly. The tick is there no matter what gear I'm in as well. When the truck first starts up(cold or hot), it's not there. As the RPMs drop at idle it slowly comes back. I have crawled under and around the engine bay with a stethoscope and I'm not picking up anything that stands out. Super faint if nothing at all on the transmission, oil pan, CATs, both valve covers and timing chain areas. This is completely baffling and a transmission shop had no idea. Right now I'm leaning towards a loose flexplate, since up top things sound perfect. It's definitely something going round and round or in sync with the motor on the bottom end. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
have you recently changed the oil, and if so what did you use?
I have recently and have always stuck with the 5 - 30. I threw in a qt. of Lucas oil treatment this last time around to see what would happen. Nothing, no change. This noise has been coming on gradually since the beginning of the year. I'm in Colorado and it's been a cold winter, so I never payed attention to it with the windows up all the time. It has just been more persistent lately. It's just odd that it's not there at start up, then gradually shows up after 20 seconds or so at low idle. I'm going to stop by another transmission shop today. Dumb question, the transmission fluid dip stick, how do you read it? It has a set of cold lines and hot lines. Double lines at each point. Is full in between the cold and hot or in between the 1/8" lines either at top of bottom?
 

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I've had the tic since around 65K miles, on my 2010. Recently, I went to long tuber headers. I had to do some rearranging, and was awaiting downstream o2 sensor extension. During the time they were not hooked up, the tic was gone. When they are not hooked up, eco mode does not work. I'm not sure the correlation between the two, but the info may help some to troubleshoot. If it is gone during this time, it seems as though it wouldn't be tied to oil changes, or anything else user related. Seems it may be something to do with eco mode, whatever systems that involves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've had the tic since around 65K miles, on my 2010. Recently, I went to long tuber headers. I had to do some rearranging, and was awaiting downstream o2 sensor extension. During the time they were not hooked up, the tic was gone. When they are not hooked up, eco mode does not work. I'm not sure the correlation between the two, but the info may help some to troubleshoot. If it is gone during this time, it seems as though it wouldn't be tied to oil changes, or anything else user related. Seems it may be something to do with eco mode, whatever systems that involves.
I am currently waiting to get in to a transmission shop. When they wanted to hear it before I set up the date, the mechanic narrowed it down to it coming from the bell housing area. Where the transmission meets the block. Their guess right now is that it is either a cracked flex plate or torque converter issue. The tick is not present upon initial start up. 20 seconds in at low idle RPMs it will appear. Shops are super busy right now here in Colorado. The dealership is 8 weeks out because they don't have an onsite transmission guy. I'll update in a few weeks for sure.
 

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I think I have the same problem as you with the same year. I have a hemi with 94k miles, at first I thought it was something with the exhaust, but I’ve checked all mounts and fittings and it seems to be coming from the bell housing area. I also have been through the exhaust manifold change outs and this noise is definitely different. It’s not the engine, the noise is coming from the bell housing area. I can usually provoke the noise by pressing the accelerator and brake at the same time just a bit, while at a standstill. it seems to be a function of the load on the transmission. I also hear it quite loudly when decelerating to a stop sign in a 25 mph area, again seems to be tied to a change to the loading of the transmission. It seems more audible at very low speed too, although it may always be there and it’s just drowned out by everything else. I’d describe it as a metal to metal rattling, almost like there are two pieces of metal that are intermittently making contact.

I am leaning towards a cracked or loose flexplate. Luckily it still has the lifetime warranty and I’m taking it in tomorrow, so let’s see what happens. I have a strange feeling that they’ll say nothing is wrong, and charge me a diag fee.. at least until I came back again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think I have the same problem as you with the same year. I have a hemi with 94k miles, at first I thought it was something with the exhaust, but I’ve checked all mounts and fittings and it seems to be coming from the bell housing area. I also have been through the exhaust manifold change outs and this noise is definitely different. It’s not the engine, the noise is coming from the bell housing area. I can usually provoke the noise by pressing the accelerator and brake at the same time just a bit, while at a standstill. it seems to be a function of the load on the transmission. I also hear it quite loudly when decelerating to a stop sign in a 25 mph area, again seems to be tied to a change to the loading of the transmission. It seems more audible at very low speed too, although it may always be there and it’s just drowned out by everything else. I’d describe it as a metal to metal rattling, almost like there are two pieces of metal that are intermittently making contact.

I am leaning towards a cracked or loose flexplate. Luckily it still has the lifetime warranty and I’m taking it in tomorrow, so let’s see what happens. I have a strange feeling that they’ll say nothing is wrong, and charge me a diag fee.. at least until I came back again.
Yeah...exactly. Kinda like a piece of metal popping in and out of place or like you said, two pieces making contact. The truck is in the shop right now being looked at today. I will keep you posted. Way to get that lifetime warranty!
 

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Yeah...exactly. Kinda like a piece of metal popping in and out of place or like you said, two pieces making contact. The truck is in the shop right now being looked at today. I will keep you posted. Way to get that lifetime warranty!
I dropped mine off today and was able to demonstrate the noise for the service advisor.
He said he has seen a few cracked flex plates on 09s in particular. But sometimes things aren’t what they seem so let’s see…
 

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Be prepared for the cam and lifter failure
i really don‘t think it’s coming from the engine in my case. It’s underneath, near bell housing. The noise is periodic with engine rpm but it’s only there under certain loads of the transmission.
in any case, I have the lifetime warranty so it will surely suck to be without it for a while, such a repair shouldn’t cost me an extra penny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update.....Just got off the phone with the transmission shop and it's not the transmission. It's the motor. :( They recommended me to a good shop, so I'm setting up an appointment. I wonder what the damage on cost will be with a cam and lifter repair? It's crazy because the performance of the truck has never changed. Runs great. More to come with this headache.
 

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Update.....Just got off the phone with the transmission shop and it's not the transmission. It's the motor. :( They recommended me to a good shop, so I'm setting up an appointment. I wonder what the damage on cost will be with a cam and lifter repair? It's crazy because the performance of the truck has never changed. Runs great. More to come with this headache.
does your noise change with how much load is on the transmission? In other words, is the noise different under the following two scenarios:

1. Rev engine in park to whatever rpm makes the sound audible and predictable, presumably under 3k.
2. Now with left foot on brake, right on gas and in drive, at the same rpm, presumably above idle.

is the noise different for you in those 2 scenarios? For me, it is. If it was the motor I would think it wouldn’t be. In scenario 1, I don’t think I ever hear it. In scenario 2 I think I always hear it.

I am still hopeful it’s the flexplate or bolts, but in any case have the lifetime warranty, the question will be how long will it take to fix and how much of fight will it be.
 

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i called to get an update. They said they checked the flexplate and bolts via the inspection window and it’s fine. They asked me to come back in and demo the noise. I told them i gave them a procedure to duplicate it involving applying brake and throttle in drive, and even demo‘ed this to the service advisor. So now I wait again…
 

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How did you get lifetime warranty? My buddies hemi just crapped out last week with 200k in km
all 09 ram 1500s and most non-commercial, non-srt Chrysler gas cars/trucks, with some exceptions like fleet use vehicles, are covered by a lifetime powertrain warranty If you’re the original owner. I believe 07s, after a certain sales date and 08s are as well, but I’m not pretending here to know all of the eligibility rules.. you can find info on this on the web and probably on this site too. Only issue is that people forget to have the inspection done every 5 yrs to keep it alive, that and the fact that the dealer can mess up entering the into onto the computer and void the warranty which happened to me (I spent a lot of time getting that resolved). If you sell it, the warranty is voided too..have to be the original owner.

The bumper to bumper part was added in the finance office as an extra item. I think I paid about 1200$ for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Unfortunately, I'm the 2nd owner. I bought it in 2012 with only 7,000 miles on it. It was practically brand new. 4" Lift with cold air intake and throttle body. It's been a really good truck up until the last year. I had to replace the PCM, all wheel bearings etc etc....This engine tick was a slow and gradual thing this past winter.
The engine starts making the noise 30 seconds after initial start up. If its been sitting over night it may take longer. Once the rpm's set at idle, it really can be heard. Sitting with my foot on the brake and revving the engine a little will quiet it down some, but it still can be heard. The noise does accelerate with engine RPM's but it's not as loud. The sound will change from a click to almost like a popping noise. Changes in volume as it does this. Almost like if you have a bad spark plug wire and it's arcing on the block. What are the symptoms of a wiped cam and lifter? The truck runs and idles beautifully. (118,000 miles) I've heard of issues with the MDS. Maybe these aren't or are engaged causing the tick? I'm baffled. The truck goes to another mechanic on Monday and from what I've read things can get very expensive with motor repairs. I'll keep you posted.
 

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Just went to dealer. No trouble found. They believe it’s a resonance from the exhaust at certain rpm and loading levels. I suppose that’s possible, especially if it’s right around the collectors which is about the area I thought the noise was coming from. They also checked the exhaust clamps and they weren’t worn.
I talked to the service manager about the cam/lifter issue, just because it was possibly suspected in my case. He said it’s pretty much inevitable as time goes on, this really comes as no surprise to those impacted, unfortunately, I guess. There are two things you can do to help: don’t idle for extended periods of time and change the oil even more often than suggested service intervals especially on higher mileage trucks.
 

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Unfortunately, I'm the 2nd owner. I bought it in 2012 with only 7,000 miles on it. It was practically brand new. 4" Lift with cold air intake and throttle body. It's been a really good truck up until the last year. I had to replace the PCM, all wheel bearings etc etc....This engine tick was a slow and gradual thing this past winter.
The engine starts making the noise 30 seconds after initial start up. If its been sitting over night it may take longer. Once the rpm's set at idle, it really can be heard. Sitting with my foot on the brake and revving the engine a little will quiet it down some, but it still can be heard. The noise does accelerate with engine RPM's but it's not as loud. The sound will change from a click to almost like a popping noise. Changes in volume as it does this. Almost like if you have a bad spark plug wire and it's arcing on the block. What are the symptoms of a wiped cam and lifter? The truck runs and idles beautifully. (118,000 miles) I've heard of issues with the MDS. Maybe these aren't or are engaged causing the tick? I'm baffled. The truck goes to another mechanic on Monday and from what I've read things can get very expensive with motor repairs. I'll keep you posted.
if you don’t have a warranty, and you’ve got 118k miles, if it were me, personally I’d be hesitant dumping over 3k$ (or so I think that’s the approx cost, I’ve heard of some over 5k at a dealer) in a truck that’s 12 years old and not throwing codes or experiencing issues like hesitation or stalling or other engine issues, I’d just let it ride until it starts detecting misfires, then send her out to pasture, but obviously that’s a personal decision and just my opinion…everyone has one :) . You really can’t sell it like it is now, at least not with a good conscience, so I’d just use it until it dies.
regarding the issues you had, the TIPM (I assume that’s what you meant by the pcm) is a horrible design and Chrysler should have recalled them and redesigned them. I think there was a class action suit on that a while ago, not sure what happened there.
Mine failed a few years ago too, and even the replacement they put in failed 5 days later.. so I’m actually on TIPM number 3. When the first one failed the reverse lights stayed on in the truck and killed the battery (that was the only symptom and I actually thought it was a problem in the steering column with the reverse light switch), when the second one failed the speedometer and tachometer were pegged at full and would randomly go off and on.

the bearings… I’m not into lifting snd such, but I remember reading that if you lift these particular trucks and/or use heavier wheels you’re asking for ball joint, bearing and tie rod issues. If you’ve not had tie rods or ball joints changed, you should jack up the front and grab the wheels at 12 and 6 and shake and do the same at 3 and 9… odds are you have a lot of slop.

I just changed my outer tie rods, I did it myself even though I had the warranty instead of spending 100 for my deductible (if they would cover it, which is not always the case with a wear part like a tie rod end) for crappy Chrysler tied rods I got a pair of Moogs for 60 bucks, installed those and then had a shop do an 80 dollar alignment, so it cost me 140 (not including the hour I spent doing the actual work) for better parts vs 100 for inferior parts. If the ball joints go, however, I’ll probably take in for that as that’s more involved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
if you don’t have a warranty, and you’ve got 118k miles, if it were me, personally I’d be hesitant dumping over 3k$ (or so I think that’s the approx cost, I’ve heard of some over 5k at a dealer) in a truck that’s 12 years old and not throwing codes or experiencing issues like hesitation or stalling or other engine issues, I’d just let it ride until it starts detecting misfires, then send her out to pasture, but obviously that’s a personal decision and just my opinion…everyone has one :) . You really can’t sell it like it is now, at least not with a good conscience, so I’d just use it until it dies.
regarding the issues you had, the TIPM (I assume that’s what you meant by the pcm) is a horrible design and Chrysler should have recalled them and redesigned them. I think there was a class action suit on that a while ago, not sure what happened there.
Mine failed a few years ago too, and even the replacement they put in failed 5 days later.. so I’m actually on TIPM number 3. When the first one failed the reverse lights stayed on in the truck and killed the battery (that was the only symptom and I actually thought it was a problem in the steering column with the reverse light switch), when the second one failed the speedometer and tachometer were pegged at full and would randomly go off and on.

the bearings… I’m not into lifting snd such, but I remember reading that if you lift these particular trucks and/or use heavier wheels you’re asking for ball joint, bearing and tie rod issues. If you’ve not had tie rods or ball joints changed, you should jack up the front and grab the wheels at 12 and 6 and shake and do the same at 3 and 9… odds are you have a lot of slop.

I just changed my outer tie rods, I did it myself even though I had the warranty instead of spending 100 for my deductible (if they would cover it, which is not always the case with a wear part like a tie rod end) for crappy Chrysler tied rods I got a pair of Moogs for 60 bucks, installed those and then had a shop do an 80 dollar alignment, so it cost me 140 (not including the hour I spent doing the actual work) for better parts vs 100 for inferior parts. If the ball joints go, however, I’ll probably take in for that as that’s more involved.
I agree, I'm weighing all my options here. 3K is my limit for repairs, so I'll see what they say next week. I still want to enjoy my Summer and not be completely broke. I've thought about just running it until it dies too if the repair price is well over 3K. Three TIPM's? Mine was just sending the wrong voltages to the O2 sensors. One and done with the new one. I got it through a company called Flagship 1. It took a while to get it, but I'm satisfied with the product. It was around $330.00.
 

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I agree, I'm weighing all my options here. 3K is my limit for repairs, so I'll see what they say next week. I still want to enjoy my Summer and not be completely broke. I've thought about just running it until it dies too if the repair price is well over 3K. Three TIPM's? Mine was just sending the wrong voltages to the O2 sensors. One and done with the new one. I got it through a company called Flagship 1. It took a while to get it, but I'm satisfied with the product. It was around $330.00.
i think the aftermarket modified TIPM versions are better and cheaper. But with my warranty I paid only 100 but got a crappy Chrysler reman unit. They didn’t charge me for the third one because it failed only a few days after they installed the replacement.
 
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