i got the oem controller my truck has only the one plug found the pink/light green wire taped into it and controller flashes cf . been trying to locate the other two wires but so far just see white /light blue and white /purple i been looking all over this sight to see if some one has posted a picture of the wires . help if you can! thanks joeThank you for your help. Since I don't care if I have the canbus related features installed, I suspect I only need to wire the pink/light green wire to B3.
There are pictures and more detailed instructions in the PDF file I posted at http://www.ramforumz.com/showpost.php?p=280263&postcount=37. I hope this helps.i got the oem controller my truck has only the one plug found the pink/light green wire taped into it and controller flashes cf . been trying to locate the other two wires but so far just see white /light blue and white /purple i been looking all over this sight to see if some one has posted a picture of the wires . help if you can! thanks joe
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but if you only have the 4 pin connector on a 2010 there is no reason to get the computer flashed.:4-dontknow:So I got the controller and the bezel in yesterday and and got it installed in about an hour. I only had the one 4 pin grey connector and everything is working perfectly! Now to just find a dealer that will flash my system for me for free.
Thanks for all the good info from everyone on this post.
Picked up the factory trailer brake controller from the Dealer I bought my truck from. Supposedly there was a high 200 unit backorder nationally but it took only a week to get it in.
The controller P/N is: 56029431AF
The beige trim is: 1EB13DK2AA
Installation took 15 minutes after discounting the fact that I was taking pictures.
This is where the factory controller is mounted.
This is the new bezel.
Face of new controller.
Bottom of new controller.
Mount the controller into the bezel. There are 2 screws you'll need to dig up and they're both different sizes. Careful not to attempt to use a screw that's too big or you'll split the plastic casing.
Remove these two Philips screws and don't lose them.
After the screws are out, carefully pull the panel straight back. The ODBC connector and hood release can be left attached.
Once the center panel has been removed, the first of two mounting screws for the cubby are exposed. It a Torx screw.
On the left side of the dash panel is a small access door. It pulls out from the leading edge. Be careful not to just jam a screwdriver in there and pry it open or you'll mark up the sharp edge of the dashpad. I inserted a small screwdriver just enough to get my fingernail in and pull it out. Take it easy here because you can see any marks you make. Plastic trim tools would work well here also.
Now that the access door is open the second retaining screw for the bezel is exposed. Remove both screws now and pull the cubby straight out of the dash.
Up under the left side of the dash (fairly close to where you're working) you should find two grey connectors that are taped to the harness. Untape them and route them to the opening you'll be inserting the new bezel and controller into.
Carefully insert the controller and bezel assembly into the opening and press it firmly into place so the secondary clips on the bezel seat properly into the dash. Plug in the connectors you untied above (they are two different sizes so you won't mix them up) and reinstall the two Torx retaining screws. Turn the ignition on to ensure that all the LEDs illuminate then go off. If it functions correctly then close the left access panel, replace the lower trim and secure it with the original screws.
This is the finished product with protective film removed from controller face.
QFT Would be great to see the picsThe picture links are broken and not showing up. Can anyone help with this? I have a 2010 Ram 1500 and am not sure if I have both the connectors or not.
Or does anyone have any pictures of the connectors?
Thanks! Great post btw, very informative