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I am going to install the factory brake trailer module in my 2012/ 1500 Tradesman with the A plug (no B plug). I do not have the EVIC. I was wondering if I could hook up the B3 Terminal, Fused Ignition Run/Start Control Output, Circuit F943 and leave the B1 and B2 CAN C Bus terminals empty. My understanding is that the CAN Bus terminals are only necessary for EVIC display.
 

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Guys - My notes are summarized in the attached PDF file. My dealer didn't indicate this modification would cause problems, they simply insisted it could not be done. When I informed the parts dept that I had been able to make the controller work in my truck, they admitted Chrysler has issued TSB stating an adapter kit to retrofit the "B" harness would be available in late 2010. Until then I guess the "official" word is the factory controller cannot be made to work with these trucks.

Ken
ken99 nice write up but maybe i missed which wires off the WIN were can bus (+) and can bus (-) can you or someone post a pin out/ wiring diagram of the WIN that we are splicing into?
 

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Nevermind found it. i also notices that the wires run from their to the main junction plug at the back of the dash so i'll be tapping in their as i don't want to tap in the the WIN sense i'm installing remote start and don't want the tech to see that.

NODE-WIRELESS IGNITION-WIN
Harness Family: IP
Harness Part Number: 68066208AB
Cavities: 12
Color: BLACK
Gender: Female
Part Description: INSULATOR
Repair Kit Part Number: 05102402AA
Seal: Un-Sealed
Engineering Name: Mod_Wireless_Ctrl_WIN
Connector No: D3915A
Available Views:
Location View





Pin Circuit Wire Color Gauge/Size Function
A1 A106 LB/RD 22 FUSED B(+)
A2 NO CONNECTION
A3 F20 PK/WT 22 IGNITION RUN/START CONTROL OUTPUT
A4 Z911 BK/LG 20 GROUND
A5 D52 WT/LG 22 CAN C (+)
A6 D51 WT/LB 22 CAN C (-)
A7 K321 BR/YL 22 BTSI UNLOCK CONTROL
A8 L51 WT 20 BRAKE LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
A9 NO CONNECTION
A10 NO CONNECTION
A11 NO CONNECTION
A12 T824 YL/DB 22 TRS PARK SIGNAL
 

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I am going to install the factory brake trailer module in my 2012/ 1500 Tradesman with the A plug (no B plug). I do not have the EVIC. I was wondering if I could hook up the B3 Terminal, Fused Ignition Run/Start Control Output, Circuit F943 and leave the B1 and B2 CAN C Bus terminals empty. My understanding is that the CAN Bus terminals are only necessary for EVIC display.
I can confirm that if you give power to the (run/start pin) then it will work.
I just installed mine with connector A no connector b and it worked just fine. I later went to a junk yard and found a truck with one and took the pigtail. had the dealer activate the sales code along with my remote start. but yes it works with only the power wire attached Just splice into the pink wire with the light green stripe in the main dash harness that goes to the main 43 pin dash plug next to the brake pedal
 

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My ITBM install adding the second connector

I got my ITBM and the can bus harness pigtail from a junk yard. i didn't have the connector so i needed the pigtail. I noticed that some of y'all have been using the WIN module as a can bus source. I decided to use the main junction block cutting the wires and using non insulated crimp connectors and solder to create a good splice and heat shrink for the OEM look.









 

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.

Sorry if this has already been covered in here, but I didn't notice it and this thread seemed like the best place to ask. This is a pic of a 2013 RAM brake controller and it has a new location in the dash. I'm wondering if a controller for the model year ending 2012 will still work in a 2013 (since the dashboards haven't changed) ?

 

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kevinhann, thanks for the response. Because of your post I decided to go and hunt the pick-a-parts to see what I could find. I was able to find and buy an ITBM and gray/black bezel out of a 2011 3500 dually for $65. Bought three #8 x 5/8 trim panel screws from the hardware store to secure bezel to module and to secure rear of module to dash support . Everything came apart just like Netman66 post described. Installed ITBM and bezel plugged in the large "A" plug (no "B" plug, just spliced into the pink/greenwire and hooked up to B3). Hooked up to my neighbors 21ft Jayco travel trailer and went on a 20 mile test run. Worked great w/o the CAN + - wires. So if you have an ST or Tradesman w/o EVIC there is no reason to worry about the CAN + - wires.
 

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I just got back from 6hours of towing my 3200lb Mach 1 on a 1000lb open trailer behind my 2011 Hemi Sport. I nailed the tongue weight and had no bounce or sway on the entire trip; basically I didn't know it was even back there.

The brake controller worked flawlessly. With the 7-plug connector hooked up, the display reads 5.0 all the time, unless I am using the brakes. Then proportionate to how hard I am applying the brakes, it reads 10, 20, 30, etc. I had one incident on a busy road where I was probably lucky to have it- I was in traffic and something caught my eye to the right... when I looked back, the car in front of me was stopping (for no reason I will ever be aware of), and I really did have to slam on the brakes. It could have been a different situation without the trailer being braked, and immediately, and proportionally.

I tested the manual lever on the highway and it sure does brake the trailer- you would only use this if you were looking to arrest some trailer sway by braking the trailer without using the Ram's brakes. But it's a good test to see that it all works, and that it won't throw the trailer into a sway on it's own.

I don't see why I would pay even $5 for the EVIC flash. I'm not even clear on what it get you- a row in the message center that I always leave off except to check tire pressure and temps?
.

With regard to your last paragraph, the EVIC flash, my '13 RAM manual says the EVIC would be used in conjunction with the brake controller to obtain 4 different options : light electric; heavy electric; light electric over hydraulic; heavy electric over hydraulic. So if the EVIC is not flashed, would the system be in "light electric" by default ?

I see your post is a little dated, but I was wondering the same thing about flashing the EVIC. I'm curious if you ever found the answer ?

.
 

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A note to add for those searching this thread: My 2012 Ram 1500 4x4 Tradesman only had the single plug. The ITBC did require that I splice the power wire and the CAN +/- wires to work properly. I got the "CF" error message when only hooked up to the power wire.

The truck has the base dash but also power doors/windows and tire pressure monitoring system so I assume the EVIC is still present despite not having the nice display on the dash.

After a quick test everything works perfectly, I'll stop by the dealer to see if they still have to reflash. Thanks for the writeup!

kevinhann, thanks for the response. Because of your post I decided to go and hunt the pick-a-parts to see what I could find. I was able to find and buy an ITBM and gray/black bezel out of a 2011 3500 dually for $65. Bought three #8 x 5/8 trim panel screws from the hardware store to secure bezel to module and to secure rear of module to dash support . Everything came apart just like Netman66 post described. Installed ITBM and bezel plugged in the large "A" plug (no "B" plug, just spliced into the pink/greenwire and hooked up to B3). Hooked up to my neighbors 21ft Jayco travel trailer and went on a 20 mile test run. Worked great w/o the CAN + - wires. So if you have an ST or Tradesman w/o EVIC there is no reason to worry about the CAN + - wires.
 

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I'd be interested to hear what you found out tschimizzi, my truck has the same options as yours and no evic.


A note to add for those searching this thread: My 2012 Ram 1500 4x4 Tradesman only had the single plug. The ITBC did require that I splice the power wire and the CAN +/- wires to work properly. I got the "CF" error message when only hooked up to the power wire.

The truck has the base dash but also power doors/windows and tire pressure monitoring system so I assume the EVIC is still present despite not having the nice display on the dash.

After a quick test everything works perfectly, I'll stop by the dealer to see if they still have to reflash. Thanks for the writeup!
 

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I plan to try this install at some point using the .pdf (and splicing - 2010 1500 with one connector). Does anyone know if the mopar developed splice-in pigtail mentioned in a couple places in this thread has ever been released? (so I can harass my parts guy)

Also, does anyone have the original first post (or first page) of this thread saved somewhere? I'm after the pictures that Netman66 posted in the original post.

@Netman66 - please fix the broken links if you can ever make the time, which can be virtually impossible for some, so I understand....just figured I'd ask.

Thanks all for this thread.:smileup:
 

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there was a guy on ebay selling the splice in harness for the smaller brake connector. cant seem to find the link anymore. does anybody happen to know if these are still available?
 

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I know this has been beaten to death, but I still have a question I haven't seen answered. I have a 2011 Sport that has had a lot of mods and a custom Hemifever tune. If I put in a controller and have my TIPM flashed, will it mess with my ECM tune at all?

Anyone out there done this with a custom tune?
 

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I know this is an old thread but it was TREMENDOUSLY helpful! I wanted to use the factory brake controller in my new-to-me 2012 RAM 1500 ST and couldn't have done it without everyone here. I also only had the single connector under my dash. I read where some guys had only connected the +12V switched pin (B3) and claimed it worked for them. It didn't work for me until I connected up the CANBUS + and - pins (B1, B2) as well. (Even though I don't have EVIC) I would get the CF message and flashing trailer icon. After I hooked up the CANBUS connectors the brake controller would power up and then go dark like it should.

Thanks again guys!
 

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I have the correct Yazaki connector and will make up the harness and try it in a 2012 screw.

How critical is the wire gauge? I have similar colored and sized wires I got out of a dodge truck at a bone yard and was going to try them.

I'll let you know how it works out.
 
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