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I have the correct Yazaki connector and will make up the harness and try it in a 2012 screw.

How critical is the wire gauge? I have similar colored and sized wires I got out of a dodge truck at a bone yard and was going to try them.

I'll let you know how it works out.
I'd be interested in hearing how it works out. I just have my wires going to female connectors and pushed onto the pins. It's a tight fit and the wires are pretty secure since I taped them real good. Would be nice to get the right connector though.
 

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Is there anyway to test the module? I have a 2010 SLT CC. Previous owner must’ve had an aftermarket brake controller judging by the screw holes in the knee boaster and the second plug wired in. I picked up an ITBC from another 2010 1500. I have had it installed for a minute but now trying to test it out because no power to the rear trailer plug. Dealer says they have to flash it to install the tow package. I don’t have an EVIC and could care less. I don’t feel like paying $85 for a dealer flash when this thread basically states I don’t need it. So I’m going to recheck all the wiring but any way to check the actual module???
 

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Bought a used 09 ram with a shitty aftermarket brake controller. Bought OEM unit and found when the aftermarket was installed they clipped the connectors, any idea where I can get new connectors. Local dealer said I need a whole new harness for 2 connectors and 6in wire. Any help would be appreciated. Pics or part name would be really appreciated
 

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Clipped which connector? The factory 4-wire harness that provides the +12V, ground, brake switch sense and output to the trailer brakes? Must be - since that's the only connector the '09s have. I wouldn't bother trying to replace the OEM connector. I'd just hard-wire the harness that comes with the brake controller right to the necessary wires. Or, if you want a connector of some type, I'd just use a female 4-way-flat trailer connector. White to ground, brown to +12V, yellow to the brake sense, green to the trailer brake output. Then modify your brake controller harness with the male 4-way-flat counterpart.

You said you picked up an OEM brake controller - you mean the one meant to install in the cubbyhole slot below the headlight switch? If so, you're making your own wiring harnesses anyway.

Give me a little more info on exactly what you're trying to hook up, as well as a score of your electrical wiring ability, on a scale from 1 to 10.
 

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Exactly as you said I'm trying to install the controller under the light switch, I can splice wires pretty well I'm not confident reading wiring diagrams so a 5
 

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Got it. Okay - since you most likely don't have a wiring harness with the proper connectors to plug in to the back of the factory brake controller, you're going to be using female spade terminal connectors to plug directly into the back of the brake controller. So in that case, I recommend just splicing onto the end of the cut-off factory wires, and extending them to the controller, and terminating with the female spade terminals.

The factory wires at the cut-off brake controller connector are as follows:
14ga. Yellow/red - +12V power - this goes to A3 on the controller
18ga. White - Brake switch sense - this is A2 on the controller
14ga. Dark Green - Output to trailer brake - this is A4 on the controller
18 ga. Black/Dark Green - ground - this is A1 on the controller

In addition, you'll need to run three wires from terminals B1, B2, and B3 on the controller to the CAN Bus wires (B1/B2 to 22ga. white/light blue / 22ga. white/light green, and B3 to an ignition-switched +12V supply - suggested is the 20ga. pink/light green wire)

This is how I installed mine about 6 years ago.
 
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