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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've tried to read around but haven't really found the exact answer I'm looking for. I thought I saw that a 4" lift isn't really much higher than leveling?? So I was thinking about getting a full set of bilsteins, or should I just save for a 4" lift?? I'm not really wanting anything higher...
 

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I don't think the Bilstein's will get you 4" of lift. The Bilsteins will work to level out the truck and raise the front, as will a leveling kit.

If you want to be taller and level, a 4" lift is a good look with 35" tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't think the Bilstein's will get you 4" of lift. The Bilsteins will work to level out the truck and raise the front, as will a leveling kit.

If you want to be taller and level, a 4" lift is a good look with 35" tires.

Thanks for the reply. I understand that the level won't be a much lift as the 4 incher but how much taller is the 4" over leveling??

I saw a few pics and it don't look like much of a difference??
 

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If you want a lift then do yourself a favor and save for the lift. If you cheap out and just level your truck you probably will be kicking yourself down the road. Trust me. I am.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I see what your saying but I don't ever plan on going higher than 4", so if bilsteins will get me close I don't see how I can justify spending a lot more to gain 0.5-1" (if thats the difference between level and lift???).
 

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It might not seem like much but I think there is a very noticable difference with how a 2" leveled and 4" lifted truck looks



 

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]I went with Bilsteins and a 1.25 inch body lift and love the stance with 35s, It's basically the same look as the 4 inch suspension lift but significantly cheaper. It's only about 300-350 in parts and it's easy to install yourself with the proper tools. Sorry for the crappy quality pic, just plastidipped my rims and snapped this before work today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It might not seem like much but I think there is a very noticable difference with how a 2" leveled and 4" lifted truck looks



With those to pics its way more noticeable.

]I went with Bilsteins and a 1.25 inch body lift and love the stance with 35s, It's basically the same look as the 4 inch suspension lift but significantly cheaper. It's only about 300-350 in parts and it's easy to install yourself with the proper tools. Sorry for the crappy quality pic, just plastidipped my rims and snapped this before work today.
I like the stance too, did you go all 4 bilsteins? Where did you get the body lift?
 

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]I went with Bilsteins and a 1.25 inch body lift and love the stance with 35s, It's basically the same look as the 4 inch suspension lift but significantly cheaper. It's only about 300-350 in parts and it's easy to install yourself with the proper tools. Sorry for the crappy quality pic, just plastidipped my rims and snapped this before work today.

If you have some free time could you take a picture of the rear frame by the rear wheel well. I'm curious if the gap is visible between the frame and the bed.

This is the setup I'm thinking of doing myself.
 

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Looking at the rear wheel well you can't tell it has a body lift, the stock wheel wells do a great job of hiding it. On the front end you can see a gap if you get up close and look, but you can buy gap guards if that bothers you.

Also, you don't even have to adjust the exhaust hangers, you can just loosen the bolts on the tips and pivot them up and it looks perfect.
 

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Keep in mind that if you cheap out and get a body lift it could creek and squeek after a few years as the suspention lift will not. The suspention lift will also keep your center of gravity better for off roading. Suspention is always the better way to go in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Keep in mind that if you cheap out and get a body lift it could creek and squeek after a few years as the suspention lift will not. The suspention lift will also keep your center of gravity better for off roading. Suspention is always the better way to go in the long run.
Yeah..I think I'm going to go with Bilsteins to level it off first, then figure out where to go from there. The Bilsteins will be a bonus either way as I at least get the leveled look now and can use them in both a suspension or body lift later....

I just purchased 5100 Bilsteins for my 2012 4x4, the model on the receipt is BS-24-187367.

Thx....Where did you order from?
 

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If you have 3.9 gears and 18 inch or taller wheels go with the 4 inch lift. You will be so glad that you did when it's done. The ride will be much more balanced as the front shocks won't be preloaded higher than the rear, and the drive line will be all in the same as stock angles. Stance will be exactly level when you are complete.
If you have 3.55 gears as I do then go the body/shock route first. If nothing else you can use the shocks with the lift afterward on factory settings. Going 35 inch on 3.55 gears is going to kill the engine(in my opinion), and will have you pissed off and wanting to turn the MDS off as it won't hold well on highway at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If you have 3.9 gears and 18 inch or taller wheels go with the 4 inch lift. You will be so glad that you did when it's done. The ride will be much more balanced as the front shocks won't be preloaded higher than the rear, and the drive line will be all in the same as stock angles. Stance will be exactly level when you are complete.
If you have 3.55 gears as I do then go the body/shock route first. If nothing else you can use the shocks with the lift afterward on factory settings. Going 35 inch on 3.55 hears is going to kill the engine(in my opinion), and will have you pissed off and wanting to turn the MDS off as it won't hold well on highway at all.

Thanks for the info...I just saw your other topic about your 5100 install. I thought that the bilsteins avoided the whole "death wobble" thing, but it sounds like thats not guaranteed.

Not sure what gears I have. I need to send the request to get the info...

What is MDS? Is that the Eco light that comes on??
 

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Thanks for the info...I just saw your other topic about your 5100 install. I thought that the bilsteins avoided the whole "death wobble" thing, but it sounds like thats not guaranteed.

Not sure what gears I have. I need to send the request to get the info...

What is MDS? Is that the Eco light that comes on??
If you have your sticker you can look and it will tell you what gears you have. The MDS is the engine going down to 4 cylinders when not pulling hard.

Death wobble is caused by driveshaft angle too great. Bilsteins and Level kits are equal culprits. Good thing about Bilsteins is they are adjustable. If you really think about the difference as far as driveline angle. 2 inches is 2 inches. Bilsteins put the two inches on the bottom of spring(move perch and make more shock body stick out under perch) and level kits put it on the top(move entire assembly down two inches with spacer). The strut seat to lower control arm bolt attachment is the same measurement with either so there is no difference as they will try and explain on the site. I just thought it would be worth going Bilstein instead of spacer as I like tad more progressive compression curve of aftermarket shocks and the can be used later with a lift if you decide to change it
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you have your sticker you can look and it will tell you what gears you have. The MDS is the engine going down to 4 cylinders when not pulling hard.

Death wobble is caused by driveshaft angle too great. Bilsteins and Level kits are equal culprits. Good thing about Bilsteins is they are adjustable. If you really think about the difference as far as driveline angle. 2 inches is 2 inches. Bilsteins put the two inches on the bottom of spring(move perch and make more shock body stick out under perch) and level kits put it on the top(move entire assembly down two inches with spacer). The strut seat to lower control arm bolt attachment is the same measurement with either so there is no difference as they will try and explain on the site. I just thought it would be worth going Bilstein instead of spacer as I like tad more progressive compression curve of aftermarket shocks and the can be used later with a lift if you decide to change it
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Ahhh...maybe its best that I just save for the lift.

The sticker I have says:

2012 Ram 1500 SLT CREW CAB 4x4
Trans: 6-speed Automatic 65RFE
Electronic Shift on the Fly Part Time Transfer Case

Nothing about gearing...but I got the contact page in my bookmarks to get the build sheet.
 
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