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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

Long time listener, first time caller:

I got a 2014 Ram 1500 4x4 a few months ago. The dealership had it put on 35" tires with a 6" fabtech lift. Didn't know much about this kinda stuff when I bought it, but am now running into issues with re-gearing.

I've been told now by a few local places that in my truck, the front end gearing is welded to the carrier or something? (I'm not all that mechanically inclined... so I apologize if I'm using incorrect terminology here)

They've made the suggestion now to find a 2011 Ram 4x4 front end assembly at a junkyard, pull it, swap it into my truck, and then I could buy a normal gearing set since they haven't changed the rear at all.

1) Does this recommendation make sense?
2) Has anyone here done this already?
3) Are there any better options?

Thanks all,
Chris
 

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Is there a reason why you are wanting to re gear? You having issues?
 

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I gotcha. Yeah I have read and been told the 35's with 3.21 are fine as long as you have the 8 speed transmission. 40s are a whole different beast all together
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I gotcha. Yeah I have read and been told the 35's with 3.21 are fine as long as you have the 8 speed transmission. 40s are a whole different beast all together
I have the 8 speed, it's still a little sluggy on the take off, and does a bit of gear searching that I don't feel it should be doing. After about 30 mph though, no issues, and still tons of power available at the high end, even at 70mph.
 

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I'm following this post because I have been wondering what are options are. I'm running the same set up with the same gears
 

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If you are putting 40s on the stock axleshafts of a 1/2 ton truck I hope you carry a crate of CV axles around in the bed with you. With enough lift to fit that big a tire You'd probably need custom ones anyway.

If you're going to buy another axle assembly, why not just get one that is already geared the way you want it?


I am pretty sure you will want 4.88s or deeper for 40s though, and AFAIK 4.88s won't fit into a Chrysler 8 1/4 which is what your front diff is; and I doubt they'd fit the 9.25 rear either
 

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I've been reading a bit about our ZF axles lately, and as I understand it, 2013+ Ram's we're kinda SOL with re-gearing the front axle. As you mentioned, apparently the front ring gear is welded to the carrier, so believe it or not it is easier and possibly more cost affective to get an entirely new axle (crazy!). Someone more familiar will post soon I'm sure, but that's what I've read.

I was really considering the 3.21's when I bought my truck knowing it would be a daily driver. Went with 3.92 since I usually end up lifting my trucks and putting bigger tires on them when I retire them from daily driving. After finding out about this front axle issue, glad I went with the 3.92's.
 

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I can deal with it being a little sluggish I just don't want to put more strain that I have to on the tranny and motor. I bought my truck with the 6" lift and 35's so not sure how it was before. Everyone I talk to that lifted there truck afterwards said they noticed a little power loss but the way the 8speed is geared the 3.21 are fine
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you are putting 40s on the stock axleshafts of a 1/2 ton truck I hope you carry a crate of CV axles around in the bed with you. With enough lift to fit that big a tire You'd probably need custom ones anyway.

If you're going to buy another axle assembly, why not just get one that is already geared the way you want it?


I am pretty sure you will want 4.88s or deeper for 40s though, and AFAIK 4.88s won't fit into a Chrysler 8 1/4 which is what your front diff is; and I doubt they'd fit the 9.25 rear either
I hear ya.. yeah. A few people have told me that as well. 37/38's should be ok though? If so, what, in your opinion, would be the ideal gearing?

It's not like I'm trying to make a rock crawler out of a full size pickup, I just want to eventually do a little more to improve my ramp breakover angle, and I figured bigger tires was the way to go.

Also, IMHO, the 35's look a tiny bit small on a 6" lift. Just wanted to add a little more meat for looks, if nothing else.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Most junkyards are saying it's about $4-600 for the front diff assembly, so that's not toooooo bad. Since my current tires only have about 3k miles on them, I'll just be keeping a lookout at junkyards for a while before moving forward. Once these tires die, I'll do all of this (37/38's, the new front end, gearing, and lockers) at the same time to save on labor costs.

JustDifferentials and Mule Outfitters are considering working together to solve this for me. I'll let everyone know where this goes when the time comes.

For now, my White Knuckle Rock Sliders are shipping on Monday, then it's on to bumpers and a winch. Woot.
 

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Many people go to 37s with a 6" lift. Personally I think this looks like too much lift for a half ton, but if I planned to seriously use the truck off road I would go no larger than 35s. They do look a little small on a 4" lift and even smaller on 6" though. With this size, any more than 3.92s or 4.10s is unneccessary.

Truck size makes a difference regarding what tire size looks weird. We have trucks with 52s at work, but they're class 8s with a 12 liter diesel. 40s will make it look like a mudding truck and the gearing you need for them will make it poorly suuted for the highway, not to mention the strain on your driveline.

If you will just do mild wheeling then 37s will be ok. Any larger and youre better off buying a 2500 with a beam axles up front
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Many people go to 37s with a 6" lift. Personally I think this looks like too much lift for a half ton, but if I planned to seriously use the truck off road I would go no larger than 35s. They do look a little small on a 4" lift and even smaller on 6" though. With this size, any more than 3.92s or 4.10s is unneccessary.

Truck size makes a difference regarding what tire size looks weird. We have trucks with 52s at work, but they're class 8s with a 12 liter diesel. 40s will make it look like a mudding truck and the gearing you need for them will make it poorly suuted for the highway, not to mention the strain on your driveline.

If you will just do mild wheeling then 37s will be ok. Any larger and youre better off buying a 2500 with a beam axles up front
That makes total sense. 37's it is... lol

And yeah... I wouldn't have chosen a 6" lift for these tires, but hey Larson Dodge clearly knows what's best... Ugh... *eyeroll/facepalm/middlefinger*
 

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That makes total sense. 37's it is... lol

And yeah... I wouldn't have chosen a 6" lift for these tires, but hey Larson Dodge clearly knows what's best... Ugh... *eyeroll/facepalm/middlefinger*
FWIW, depending on the width, 35s fit with just a level. IMHO its a good look
 

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Most junkyards are saying it's about $4-600 for the front diff assembly, so that's not toooooo bad. Since my current tires only have about 3k miles on them, I'll just be keeping a lookout at junkyards for a while before moving forward. Once these tires die, I'll do all of this (37/38's, the new front end, gearing, and lockers) at the same time to save on labor costs.

JustDifferentials and Mule Outfitters are considering working together to solve this for me. I'll let everyone know where this goes when the time comes.

For now, my White Knuckle Rock Sliders are shipping on Monday, then it's on to bumpers and a winch. Woot.
For sure keep me posted
 

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If you are putting 40s on the stock axleshafts of a 1/2 ton truck I hope you carry a crate of CV axles around in the bed with you. With enough lift to fit that big a tire You'd probably need custom ones anyway.

If you're going to buy another axle assembly, why not just get one that is already geared the way you want it?


I am pretty sure you will want 4.88s or deeper for 40s though, and AFAIK 4.88s won't fit into a Chrysler 8 1/4 which is what your front diff is; and I doubt they'd fit the 9.25 rear either
They will not fit the rear, you need a larger carrier.
 

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Has anyone actually ever met anyone who has done this swap? I just purchased a low mileage 2011 front diff and I'm getting ready to attempt the swap... So far I have determined it is not a direct bolt in, the mounts on the diff are slightly different and the 2014 CV axle is 5/8" longer than the 2011. The splines in the two ends of the CV axles are the same count but not sure of the diameter. I have been searching and searching and haven't been able to get any real specs or measurements... So if you guys have actually done this swap or know a person who has I would love to pick your brain... I can't be the first person to actually do the swap.... Any help would be great.. I have a 2014 Ram 1500 Express Reg. cab, 4X4, 5.7 with an 8" FTS lift with added 2" front Procomp coilover conversion.. BTW
 
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