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I'm a little nervous as I purchased a "Dealer" warranty also, I own A 2015 1500 5.7 8spd auto 49,000 miles purchased in 2018, knock on wood, I haven't had any issues. A friend of mine had a Chrysler 300 and it would do nothing! It ended up being the keyfob. Replaced it, all was fine. I hope that is the problem. Just an opinion on this, if the DEALER isn't "Honoring" THEIR warranty, please don't blame Chrysler/ Fiat. I wouldn't blame the Corporation, I would be ripping the dealer, again, IF the problem isn't covered. Good luck, I'll prey for a "NON Expense" resaulation. And please let us know how you make out.
 

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not sure this is your problem, however, it very well could be as it happened to me once years ago.
If his ignition turns on and everything else appears normal except it won't turn over, have him check the brake light switch. Sounds crazy, but, if it isn't adjusted so it engages (allows juice) or is shot altogether it won't turn over. Thats why you need to step on the brakes to start and switch gears.
if the switch went, it may have shut down in gear and now won't allow start up.
Just a thought. Good luck.
Dave
I have a 2015, don't have "Pushbutton" start and don't need to step on the brake pedal to start, only to shift gears.
 

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I purchased the lifetime warranty from Fiat-Chrysler, covered thru 2099. Have used it once after the mfr warranty went out on a minor item.
the major sell for me was an Actual MFR warranty, we travel to Idaho and East Coast for family visits, it is supposed to be honored by all of their dealerships, nation-wide.
And, by law in Wisconsin, it is transferable if I sell or trade it. That's a plus.
I had checked, and if just the main 8"touch screen happens
I have a 2015, don't have "Pushbutton" start and don't need to step on the brake pedal to start, only to shift gears.
340cudaman1
I was just suggesting since it happened to me a few years ago. Where many are saying not trans but sensor so i provided info on my experience. It is a primary safety interlock, and is significantly cheaper if non-op, and takes two people less than a minute to rule out. Could eliminate a lot of Easter Egging.
u
 

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Last month I had the same problem with my 2014. In addition, I was getting weird error messages on the dash about checking or servicing the electronic suspension, transmission and other things. On a hunch, my buddy put a voltage meter to the battery and it was only showing 8 to 9 volts. Apparently, since everything is electronic and it wouldn't start, 8 volts just wasn't enough to turn that engine over but it was enough to light up the dash. I got a jump drove right to AutoZone and got a new battery everything is fine now. Worst part was that I was two hours from home and I used the emergency call system on the mirror and they told me to get it towed. That would have been a $500 tow job. Sometimes we over-look the most obvious. The manufacturer battery only lasted exactly 5 years.
 

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He bought the used truck from the Ram dealership. He asked for and paid for the best possible extended warranty that he could get included in the sale. I believe it's a Chrysler warranty. I suggested to him also to take it into the city, for a more experienced opinion. He is getting absolutely no action on the ignition. The only time he gets anything on the screen as if he turns on the lights. He's getting a 'service transmission' notification. I asked him if he possibly shut the truck off in Drive, he told me that it is in Park because he had to use the bypass switch to get it out of Park to get it onto the tow truck.
What is a bypass switch? I've always wondered what might happen if the truck failed to start and how I can get it out of gear if it had to be towed
 

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Last month I had the same problem with my 2014. In addition, I was getting weird error messages on the dash about checking or servicing the electronic suspension, transmission and other things. On a hunch, my buddy put a voltage meter to the battery and it was only showing 8 to 9 volts. Apparently, since everything is electronic and it wouldn't start, 8 volts just wasn't enough to turn that engine over but it was enough to light up the dash. I got a jump drove right to AutoZone and got a new battery everything is fine now. Worst part was that I was two hours from home and I used the emergency call system on the mirror and they told me to get it towed. That would have been a $500 tow job. Sometimes we over-look the most obvious. The manufacturer battery only lasted exactly 5 years.
I got a little over 6 years out of my original battery; I think 5 years is a good planning factor for a car battery.


What is a bypass switch? I've always wondered what might happen if the truck failed to start and how I can get it out of gear if it had to be towed
If you pop off the plastic dash panel above the parking brake release handle you will find the manual override lever to put the transmission in neutral.
 

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It could also have to do with the ignition switch. Once is every 25 times or so, I turn my key and nothing. No dash lights, nothing. The only thing that lights up are all the gear indicators over the dial. Usually, if I take the key out and try again it works. There are 2 or three parts that directly affect the ignition. Also, if key fob battery is weak, I have heard it may have a similar effect. Good luck.
I've seen the check transmission message on my 2013 after it sat overnight. It was a rat chewed wire on the harness by transmission. It was kind of hard to see. But connected it back with solder and heat shrink and everything works fine
 

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I've seen the check transmission message on my 2013 after it sat overnight. It was a rat chewed wire on the harness by transmission. It was kind of hard to see. But connected it back with solder and heat shrink and everything works fine
Sorry forgot to mention. Same problem you had. Wouldn't start wouldn't shift.
 

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Also, if the steering wheel is not level (like you are driving straight forward), my truck will not start. It won’t do anything. I have to manually turn the wheels until it “squares up” and then it starts. I hope this might help.
I have a 2015 1500 5.7 8spd. I have never had an issue starting my truck with the wheel NOT centered. I have pulled into parking spaces with the wheels almost COMPLETLY turned and never had an issue. It sounds like it could be a bad key-fob, someone I work with had that problem, or the tranney never went into park when the dial was turned to "P".
 

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Also, if the steering wheel is not level (like you are driving straight forward), my truck will not start. It won’t do anything. I have to manually turn the wheels until it “squares up” and then it starts. I hope this might help.
Don't know of this is related...
A couple years ago a lady driving a then-late model ram 1500 truck died at a red light in heavy traffic. I can't remember exactly the combination of problems but I remember it was both not starting and also not turning the rotary knob for the tranny gears when she did get it started. A few of us guys were crawling around it while our gals and kids were hitting the Google in real time for a solution. Someone yelled something about pulling some lever. The lever is a metal piece, and it has a red lanyard hanging off of it. It was located somewhere to the left of the steering wheel shaft goes into the dash. Kinda low, around where the knee would be - I remember because the gals knee was right there where our faces were and I notice that she had cheated shaving her legs and stopped at her knee. Is how I remember where the panel was.
The panel was easy to get to but more than a couple guys couldn't pull the lever. Turns out there is like a detent/spring type situation where you gotta jiggle it one way to listen the detent then you can pull it.

After pulling that thingy the gal re started her engine and the tranny knob could then rotate freely.

I was then still in my 2005 and remember telling the wife "I ain't buying a newer Ram when this one dies, probably switch to F-150."
It is now 2020 and I am a big - huge - fan of my '20 ram Laramie 1500 despite its stupid rotary tranny knob....
 

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Don't know of this is related...
A couple years ago a lady driving a then-late model ram 1500 truck died at a red light in heavy traffic. I can't remember exactly the combination of problems but I remember it was both not starting and also not turning the rotary knob for the tranny gears when she did get it started. A few of us guys were crawling around it while our gals and kids were hitting the Google in real time for a solution. Someone yelled something about pulling some lever. The lever is a metal piece, and it has a red lanyard hanging off of it. It was located somewhere to the left of the steering wheel shaft goes into the dash. Kinda low, around where the knee would be - I remember because the gals knee was right there where our faces were and I notice that she had cheated shaving her legs and stopped at her knee. Is how I remember where the panel was.
The panel was easy to get to but more than a couple guys couldn't pull the lever. Turns out there is like a detent/spring type situation where you gotta jiggle it one way to listen the detent then you can pull it.

After pulling that thingy the gal re started her engine and the tranny knob could then rotate freely.

I was then still in my 2005 and remember telling the wife "I ain't buying a newer Ram when this one dies, probably switch to F-150."
It is now 2020 and I am a big - huge - fan of my '20 ram Laramie 1500 despite its stupid rotary tranny knob....
Ford also uses a " rotary knob" for shifting. GMC uses "Pushbuttons on the center console.
 
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