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Hello, a few months ago i bought a 2014 ram 1500 5.7L hemi with 60k miles on it. The oil life % is getting low currently at 18%. This is my first truck and was wondering if i can just bring it to Jiffylube to get an oil change? anything i should know as far as what type of oil i should use? any tips would be appreciated since im not a "gear head" lol. Thanks!
 

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Use the oil specified in your owner's manual. If the previous owner did not provide the book, it is available in PDF online.
The oil weight is marked on the oil filler cap. It should be 5w-20. For the 5.7 HEMI, you can use either regular oil, or a synthetic. There are debatable advantages of either which will never understand by reading the opinions on this forum. Just know that your engine will work fine with either one.

The oil change % notification is only a guideline and uses an algorithm that attempts to predict when an oil change is needed based your driving conditions (number of starts, engine run duration, temperature, stops and gos, speed, etc...) Reliance on this oil change % calculation is also subject to great debate on this forum, and you will read as many diatribes for it as you will against it.

Frankly, I've found it to be not reliable (it predicts that I should change my oil only once every 12000 miles on my '16 RAM Rebel, which is 1 1/2 years of driving for me). I've taken it upon myself to change my oil twice a year, no matter the miles or driving conditions or what the oil change algorithm says. By doing it myself, I can do it for less than 1/2 what Jiffy lube charges. It's cheap insurance and keeps nice clean oil in my engine at all times.

Some more evidence against the oil change algorithm across different vehicles.. My Wife's Honda Pilot has 4200 miles on it in the first 6 months (brand new), and the oil change % is at 64%. At this rate, it won't need an oil change until it has 11,666 miles, which will be next May, based on current usage. Going nearly 18 months and through two winters on the same oil makes no sense to me. I'll be changing the oil in this vehicle every six months as well.
 

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From the Owner's Manual:



FLUIDS, LUBRICANTS AND GENUINE PARTS
Engine
Component Fluid, Lubricant, or Genuine Part
Engine Coolant We recommend you use MOPAR® Antifreeze/Coolant 10 Year/150,000
Mile Formula OAT (Organic Additive Technology).
Engine Oil – 5.7 We recommend you use API Certified SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil, meeting the
requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 such as MOPAR®,
Pennzoil®, and Shell Helix®. Refer to your engine oil filler cap for correct
SAE grade.
Engine Oil – 5.7L Engine For 2500/
3500 trucks operating under a gross
combined weight rating greater than
14,000 lbs/(6,350 kg.)
We recommend you use API Certified SAE 5W-30 Engine Oil, meeting the
requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 such as MOPAR®,
Pennzoil®, Shell Helix® or equivalent. Refer to your engine oil filler cap for
correct SAE grade.
758 MAINTAINING YOUR VEHICLE


Change Engine Oil
The oil change indicator system will remind you that it is
time to take your vehicle in for scheduled maintenance.
Refer to the “Maintenance Schedule” for further information.
NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals
exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or twelve
months, whichever occurs first.
Engine Oil Selection
For best performance and maximum protection under all
types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only
recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet
the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
American Petroleum Institute (API) Engine Oil
Identification Symbol
This symbol means that the oil has
been certified by the American
Petroleum Institute (API). The
manufacturer only recommends
API Certified engine oils.
CAUTION!
Do not use chemical flushes in your engine oil as the
chemicals can damage your engine. Such damage is
not covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
698 MAINTAINING YOUR VEHICLE
 

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My local dealership is by far the cheapest place around to have the oil changed. I took it to Valvoline Instant Oil Change once and it was just shy of a hundred dollar bill for full synthetic. The dealership does it for around $60 for full synthetic.
 

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I like how manual says "Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or twelve months, whichever occurs first." But the oil change reminder may not come on until after you've exceeded one or both of these. Which means you must keep track of when you changed it last and what the mileage was when you changed it. OR just pick an interval that's less than that and stick with it. For, me, with three vehicles, it's just easier to change the oil (and air filter and rotate the tires, etc.....) on July 1 and January 1. No need to keep track of the miles since last change.
 

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My local dealership is by far the cheapest place around to have the oil changed. I took it to Valvoline Instant Oil Change once and it was just shy of a hundred dollar bill for full synthetic. The dealership does it for around $60 for full synthetic.
Oil (7 quarts of Penzoil 5W-20) and filter (Purolator Premium) (on sale at Advance Auto Parts), around $35. Oil change time....15 minutes....if I need a second beer 1/2 way through. Rotating tires takes about 20 minutes, and cleaning the K&N Air Filter, another 10. I normally knock the entire process out in 45 minutes.
 

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I like how manual says "Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or twelve months, whichever occurs first." But the oil change reminder may not come on until after you've exceeded one or both of these. Which means you must keep track of when you changed it last and what the mileage was when you changed it. OR just pick an interval that's less than that and stick with it. For, me, with three vehicles, it's just easier to change the oil (and air filter and rotate the tires, etc.....) on July 1 and January 1. No need to keep track of the miles since last change.
I change mine every October before the temps start to drop. Truck has a little over 18k on the odometer.
 

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I went by mileage when i had the 2009 Ram w/ the HEMI
back then the book read the changes were to be done at 3,000 miles
I used Mobile One & changed it every 5,000 miles, 4 oil changes every year

Now with my 2016 Ram, recommended changes are 10,000 miles
I do 2 oil changes a year

The Oil Life monitor read 0% a month before i was even close to 10,000 miles last time

It already reads 65% & i only have 4,000 miles since the last change
In 3 weeks i leave on a 7,000 mile trip to Connecticut & back

I know that there will be a problem getting the oil changed, all the dealerships back there will only work on vehicles with an appointment & they are 2 or three weeks behind
How do you make an appointment while you are traveling ?

I refuse to go to a Jiffy Lube, the last time that i used one, i caught them putting in the wrong oil & the incorrect Brand
I made them drain it & they were telling me that i should be in the waiting room & not standing outside the bay, i was smoking a cigarette when i caught them

Jiffy Lube is not accredited by Consumer Affairs or the BBB
 

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I change mine every 6000 miles, which usually works out to 3-4 months for me. Always synthetic, I recently changed to Valvoline high mileage last weekend now that I'm close to 78,000 mi.


I change my own oil so I know the oil and filter were both actually changed, and I know what they were changed to.


You need 5W-20. You can pull up an electronic PDF copy of your manual by Googling it
 

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Not a fan of any 'oil change' joints, which is a bit unfair as I have been to a couple years ago that had a decent Tech there on that (1) day.


It's possible to get a good Tech, and equally possible to get a bad one.
Unfortunately, you can say the same for the 'oil and lube Tech' at the local Dealerships as well.


Never a bad idea to learn how to do it yourself.


A Fumoto valve certainly makes it nice, and I have recently found a specific quart-sized sherbet container that makes filter removal soooo much cleaner!
 

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Long time fan of Fumoto valves. I always get one with a nipple and use a short piece of tubing to direct the waste oil into the containers I use to take oil for recycling.
 

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I change my own oil so I know the oil and filter were both actually changed,
Had a Co-worker years ago who used to work at one of those Lube shacks,,,


Told me that back then a certain type of car had an oil filter that was a real PITA to access/change...


As long as the filter was identical to the one they were going to install, they'd often just wipe it clean and leave it unchanged,,,


Always a good idea, if at all possible, to keep an eye on the Techs.


Back in the day when I worked Construction/drove a Company truck, I noticed they overlooked lubing the top ball joints,,, No big deal, and a quick/polite chat with the Tech was all it took to get 'em lubed.

Long time fan of Fumoto valves. I always get one with a nipple and use a short piece of tubing to direct the waste oil into the containers I use to take oil for recycling.


Same here. Too easy, and you rarely spill a drop.


I have Fumoto's on both my Ram and the Wifes Edge.


Once in a while the Wife gets a free oil change coupon from the Ford Dealership. They never have had a problem doing an oil / filter change on her 'fumoto-equipped' Edge.


For whatever reason, (Probably the middle of July or some other hotter than haites time of year) the Wife took her Edge to 'a local lube shack' for an oil and filter change. The Tech (????) refused to drain the oil due to 'some strange thing that was where the drain plug was supposed to be',,, (She immediately took it to Ford and once again, in/out no problem!!!)


I was getting some transmission work done at the CDJR Dealer and had previously received a flyer for a reduced cost oil change. Figured 'why not?'


WRONG!!!!!


Later, when it came time to change that oil, I crawled under and found out that they had FUBAR'ed my valve up beyond repair,,,,


Turn the handle and 'nada',,,, It appeared that they couldn't figure it out and removed just the 'nipple' part from the fumoto itself...
God knows what they did after that, but the ball and the handle were separated somewhere along the line,,,


Again, there ARE good techs out there, and there are some that mean well but may not have a lot of experience.


Others that don't care,,,, and lastly,,, a 'very special' kind of Tech who could somehow manage to break an anvil with Q-Tip!!!!
 

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I wouldn't trust a lube joint with any vehicle of mine. I also don't trust the Dodge service department. I guess that's why I do my own. I too have a fumoto valve, but this week's oil change will be my first time using it.
 
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