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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are the above wheels hub centric?
I put 35x12.5 tires on them and they balanced out pretty good but between 80-100km/hr I got bad shakes and it seems to haul hard left...
I never thought of this before, I may need hub centric rings?
If so where can I get em?
 

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There are not many if any aftermarket rim companies that I am aware of that build rims for each vehicle to make them hub centric, you should get the rings, you have several choices from plastic to billett aluminum. I am pasting a link to a company who is one of the best in the biz
http://www.motorsport-tech.com/hub_rings.html

If you call them and talk to them, all you have to do is tell them the rims you got and they will either have the bore size or call them for you
 

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Also, my old setup was like yours, not hub centric, running rockstars with 35 nitto's, mine started doing the samething and ate my tires up in no time, needless to say there was no hub centric rings installed, my new setup has a custom spacer/adapter from those guys I listed above, they are built both hub/wheel centric, very slick
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
They can help but they need to know what the centerbore is of the 20x9 dick cepek dc2 is...I had no idea, and they said I had to find that info out myself...I tried to contact dick cepek via phone, was on hold for 15mins then hung up, then email, email bounced back...I even sent a fax with no response...Anyone know where I can find this info out?...They know the specs of my truck but not of the DC2 wheel
 

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Do you know anyone with a set of inside calipers? All you need to do is measure the inside bore of your rim, I tryed looking for info on there site and nothing, if you dont have one, you could take the rim to a machine shop and im sure they would measure it for you
 

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I have never heard of this issue before. I have the 17"X9" DC-2 rims with 35"X12.5" Dick Cepek Mud Country's going on my truck in the next couple of days. Is this an issue with all of them and if so how expensive are they. The shop I purchased them from didn't say anything about possible vibrations.
 

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Bruce most vehicles these days are hub centric, its a small lip on your hub that your rim sits on, it puts the load bearing weight to the whole axle. When you buy aftermarket rims, most center bores are larger than that factory lip, and in return you load is now being transferred to the studs, ALSO that lip that I mentioned centers the rim to the hub to keep it true, and if its not exact are very close you will get vibrations, uneven wear etc. These rings range in price from idk 20 for plastic to less than 100 for billett aluminum, when you install they have a lip that goes inside hub and inside wheel bore to true spec size, they transfer weight back to axle and keep wheel true to hub
 

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Thanks 337ram, excellent description I know exactly what you mean. I'll see what happens when I do the install but sounds like it would be worth the money to get the wieght back onto the axle as opposed to the studs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Find this on summit 110mm
Pasting link
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-1129402/
That measures 4.33 in inchs, pull wheel and double check with tape measure
Stock center bore is 77.8
Thanks
I finally got through to Dick Cepek this morning and they told me the wheel bore was 4.33" or 108.25mm...I am going to order the rings and hopefully it will fix this issue
Like I say, the truck is basically not driveable the way it is now...It would not take long to beat the front end off it..And tires would wear really bad...I am not driving it much if any until my HCRs come...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have never heard of this issue before. I have the 17"X9" DC-2 rims with 35"X12.5" Dick Cepek Mud Country's going on my truck in the next couple of days. Is this an issue with all of them and if so how expensive are they. The shop I purchased them from didn't say anything about possible vibrations.
Yeah the shop I got mine from said I would not need them either, only the chevs need them...Well, I beg to differ LOL...It would be interesting to see how yours drove without them to see if the problem is common with the DC2 etc...I know some DC2 are indeed hub centric...I believe the Jeeps perhaps???...But the 20x9 for my truck are not...And I did not know anything about this until after I installed :smiledown:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
There are not many if any aftermarket rim companies that I am aware of that build rims for each vehicle to make them hub centric, you should get the rings, you have several choices from plastic to billett aluminum. I am pasting a link to a company who is one of the best in the biz
http://www.motorsport-tech.com/hub_rings.html

If you call them and talk to them, all you have to do is tell them the rims you got and they will either have the bore size or call them for you
Hey do you know of any other websites that have these hub centric rings?...I just spoke with JR from the above link and he said it would take a couple of weeks before he could even ship them out, and being in Canada it would take up to 2 weeks to receive...I cannot wait that long...I drive 160km a day for work....lol
 

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Hub centric spacers merely center the wheel, they do not take any load. Could you imagine those tiny and fragile little plastic rings with the pounding of a car or truck over bumps and potholes. The friction between wheel and hub created by the clamping force of your studs and nuts takes the load.
OP try asking Dick Cepek for the needed rings. New wheels are normally sent with the required rings for your app. This way they can make (aftermarket) wheels with a standard bore and use different rings to accommodate various fitments. Some wheel shops have various rings in stock or can get them in a day.
Good luck
 

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This is a good read all about center forces, lug vs hub centric, the ins and outs of it

most of today's factory vehicles have hub-centric wheel setups, with the lugs only being used to clamp the wheel, not bear the load-force or center it. And most aftermarket wheels are meant to be used "hub-centrically". While they have large centerbores, so that the same wheel model can be used on multiple vehicle applications (to lower production costs), they are still "hub-centric" designs, as they are meant to be used with hub-centric rings for proper centering and load bearing. The terms "hub-centric" and "lug-centric" refer to the designed interface which is intended to both center the wheels and bear the load-force. And in the specific case of our cars (Fusion/Milan/MKZ), they are designed to use hub-centric wheels with hub-centric rings to fill the space between the hub and wheel centerbore, if necessary. In other words, if you do not install hub-centric rings on an aftermarket wheel which has a centerbore larger than your vehicles hub, you have now made the wheel "lug-centric". And since most factory vehicles today are designed for hub-centric applications, that would be a bad thing.

From the Tire Rack: "Since almost all of today's cars are designed with hub-centric wheels which transfer the vehicle's load from the center of the wheel to the car's hub (and allow the lug nuts/bolts to just hold the wheel against the hub)..." and "The centerbore of a wheel is the machined opening on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of a vehicle. This hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned as the lug hardware is torqued down. Keeping the wheel precisely centered on the hub when it is mounted will minimize the chance of a vibration. Some (aftermarket) wheels are vehicle model specific and will come from the factory with a bore machined to match that vehicle. Some (aftermarket) wheels are designed to fit multiple vehicle models and will use a centering ring system to reduce the bore size to match the hubs of different vehicles. These rings keep the wheel precisely positioned as the lug hardware is torqued down.

Some wheels are non-hub-centric by design. These are known as lug-centric wheels. With these wheels it is critical to torque the lug hardware with the vehicle on jack stands, off the ground. This allows the nuts or bolts to center the wheel and torque down without the weight of the vehicle pushing them off center." When discussing "Some wheels" in the second quoted passage, they are discussing aftermarket wheels. What that means is the interface between the hub and the wheel centerbore is used as the centering factor and load bearing surface. The lug nuts are only the clamping force to hold the wheel to the hub/hat.

In addition, while most aftermarket wheels are manufactured with a large centerbore so that they will fit multiple vehicle applications, they are still meant to be used with centering rings in a hub-centric application/manner. If you don't use hub-centric rings, there is a much higher probability of vibration and-or other issues.

Also, from the "Just for Wheels" link that Ckenaan provided earlier: "Wheel Hub Centric Rings are designed to fill in the gap between the hub of the car and the center bore of the wheel. Most (aftermarket) wheel manufacturers design their wheels with a centerbore large enough to fit on most cars. Therefore, since wheel manufactures make their center bore large enough to fit most cars, most wheel fitments have a gap between the hub and the centerbore. This gap usually doesn't allow for the wheel to fit hub-centric but rather lug-centric which causes vibration. Therefore, to fill the gap and ensure the fitment is hubcentric, hub rings are used."

In other words, if you do not use hub-centric rings (if needed for hub/centerbore size differences for non-factory/aftermarket wheels) on our cars, you are improperly moving the load-bearing and centering forces from the wheels hub (where it designed to be in the majority of factory vehicles) and placing it onto the lugs of the wheels. Not using hub-centric rings when necessary, turns a hub-centric wheel into a lug-centric one. That is not a good thing to do, as it can/will cause various issues. Do some people get way with it? Sure. As with all things in life, some people do "improper" things and get away with it (at least temporarily). But in this case, the damage caused by the stress/improper use can be cumulative and will take some time to become apparent. Therefore, does that mean because someone else did something improperly and got away with it (so far) you should to? Well, in my opinion, the answer to that question is no.

The bottom line is that if anyone plans on installing a wheel with a centerbore larger than the factory ~67.1mm, hub-centric rings should be used on our vehicles. The cost is minimal, but the benefits are many.

For anyone with any doubts concerning what to do, I would highly recommend consulting any professional/expert wheel/tire source such as the Tire Rack, Discount Tire etc. (there are other good sources, but they are two good ones for a start). Give them a call and speak to a Tech Representative.

Hope this information helps.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Yeah discount tire is special order and would take 3+ weeks for mine...I found a 78mm/110mm online at a Canadian Site...Would that work?...Specs are 77.8mm on the truck hub and 4.33 inches, according to Dick Cepek (which I worked out to 109.98mm at 25.4mm per inch) centerbore of the DC2 wheel???...I emailed a few other places and have yet to respond...some sites have the centerbore of the DC2 I have as 108mm and some have it as 110mm.....???...lol...

Update
I also found a set 77.98mm/107.95.........My specs 78mm/108.25mm
That would have to work wouldn't it?
SURPRISE SURPRISE...They are BACKORDERED
 
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