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I wish that I got a video of my truck making a knocking sound, but I got it into the shop so fast that I didn't have time to. Last week I was sitting in the driveway making a phone call and the truck was idling for about 20 minutes. After the phone call I heard a knocking sound like a rod knock, but when I revved it up the noise went away. What happens is when the truck is at normal temperature and it idles for about 5 minutes it makes this knocking sound that can be heard on the drivers side of the engine. Only when its warm, and only when its idling. if you take off the noise goes away. I took it in the shop and the shop manager said he did not think it was the engine so he kept looking around for something that would be making that sound. he said it runs too good to be anything like a knock or a bearing. They called me on Thursday and said that it was the purge valve. So I had them do it to the tune of $160.00 and picked it up Thursday afternoon. I got home and let it run and thought I heard it, but thought it could be in my head. I went to a dr. appointment and sat in the parking lot and, you guessed it, knocking sound. I called the dealership and they said bring it in, of course they didn't believe me. When i got there they were all waiting for me. I ended up leaving it again so they could work on it Friday but i haven't heard anything yet. The service manager is still holding firm to its nothing internal but he has no idea. he said you can't hear it from the bottom and it runs too good to be a bad engine. he did say the 3.6 is a great engine and will last a long time as long as you change the oil and not go by the dash for the oil changes because that will take you up to 8 or 9k miles. he recommended sticking to the 4k oil changes, usually I do 5k. I have used Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 and usually the mopar filter. I have used Valvoline full synthetic the last 2 times, but the last time i used a Fram ultra guard filter, which is when i heard the knock. so I went to Walmart and got the mopar filter and put it in. No change, it still knocked. I'm hoping to hear something today, I have 40k miles on it and the engine is warranted to 50k so I want this taken care of ASAP. They did say they would give me back my 160 I paid for the purge valve because that wasn't the problem. I've been more than happy with the truck and i'm considering buying my lease at the end, but not if they don't fix it. I'll pay the extra mileage charge and be done with it.
 

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Definitely not much on here about 3.6l engine failures, so please let us know when you have it figured out. Jeep forums only had problems first 2 years 2011 and 2012 and that was heads. Should be a good engine overall, i just went from my last 4 trucks being 5.7 hemi to the pentastar.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Definitely not much on here about 3.6l engine failures, so please let us know when you have it figured out. Jeep forums only had problems first 2 years 2011 and 2012 and that was heads. Should be a good engine overall, i just went from my last 4 trucks being 5.7 hemi to the pentastar.
I scoured the internet and did not find one single thing about a knock on a 3.6L so I'm inclined to believe its a good engine and will give them the time needed to find something. but there's always that one in a million that has a problem, and I usually own it. :LOL:
 

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Did you let it idle to try and get it to make the sound when you went to the dealer?
 

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I had a dealer tell me that the oil was dirty and chastised me for being way over due for an oil change. He mumbled and walked away when I mentioned they just changed it two months and 1000 miles earlier. I wouldn't take any oil recommendations from a dealer, they are just preprogramed to keep their service bays full.

They have built a lot of these V6s but it seems that there are more head and valve train problems in Jeeps than there should be. There was a big recall early for a manufacturing defect. Lifters, cams, phasers, position sensor(s), harness have all been the most problem areas. Perhaps you are in an early stage of a valve/lifter/cam issue thats causing a bit of power loss at idle and almost miss in one cylinder. The so called lifter knock. You may start seeing a check engine with misfire codes soon. Dunno, but it seems that there are more V6 head issues than there should be once they reach 100000 miles regardless of oil change interval. A classic is wear of a lifter grinding down a cam lobe. I think rare but often enough to perhaps be a concern.
 

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I've seen a couple reports of cams wearing down, ajd there was the issue with early production head warping that was solved in 2012. I am not aware of any cam phaser issues

I do a 5000mi interval with Valvoline synthetic in my Pentastar. It has 50,000 trouble free miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did you let it idle to try and get it to make the sound when you went to the dealer?
I took it in and let it idle in the service bay. they all heard it. the service manager heard it but still says he does not think it is the engine. he's feeling different parts of the engine like the intake hood and says he can feel it on the plastic so he doesn't think its the engine. :wow: I'm like, if the engine is knocking wouldn't that transmit to the top of the engine like that? his answer was he didn't know.
 

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I took it in and let it idle in the service bay. they all heard it. the service manager heard it but still says he does not think it is the engine. he's feeling different parts of the engine like the intake hood and says he can feel it on the plastic so he doesn't think its the engine. :wow: I'm like, if the engine is knocking wouldn't that transmit to the top of the engine like that? his answer was he didn't know.
Make sure that's documented while you're still under warranty
 

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I just went up to the dealer to check in person. Basically, they can't find out what's causing it. they think it has something to do with the air lines, or purge lines that go to the gas tank. They can feel pulsating in the lines when it makes the noise. they have decided to wait and see if it gets worse or the check engine light comes on. So they have no clue. I'll see if I can get a video of it later. They can't figure it out so they are done with it for now. They did give me my 160.00 back so... I guess i'll be turning it in when my lease is up for sure now.
 

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If the RAM V6 has a vacuum/purge hose like this, check the connection at the valve (red circle). They do seem to come apart more often than they should and will rattle like something in the purge lines. If its broken, its like a $50 vacuum hose assembly. Just mentioning this as the shop thinks it may be associated with the purge.
 

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I wish that I got a video of my truck making a knocking sound, but I got it into the shop so fast that I didn't have time to. Last week I was sitting in the driveway making a phone call and the truck was idling for about 20 minutes. After the phone call I heard a knocking sound like a rod knock, but when I revved it up the noise went away. What happens is when the truck is at normal temperature and it idles for about 5 minutes it makes this knocking sound that can be heard on the drivers side of the engine. Only when its warm, and only when its idling. if you take off the noise goes away. I took it in the shop and the shop manager said he did not think it was the engine so he kept looking around for something that would be making that sound. he said it runs too good to be anything like a knock or a bearing. They called me on Thursday and said that it was the purge valve. So I had them do it to the tune of $160.00 and picked it up Thursday afternoon. I got home and let it run and thought I heard it, but thought it could be in my head. I went to a dr. appointment and sat in the parking lot and, you guessed it, knocking sound. I called the dealership and they said bring it in, of course they didn't believe me. When i got there they were all waiting for me. I ended up leaving it again so they could work on it Friday but i haven't heard anything yet. The service manager is still holding firm to its nothing internal but he has no idea. he said you can't hear it from the bottom and it runs too good to be a bad engine. he did say the 3.6 is a great engine and will last a long time as long as you change the oil and not go by the dash for the oil changes because that will take you up to 8 or 9k miles. he recommended sticking to the 4k oil changes, usually I do 5k. I have used Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 and usually the mopar filter. I have used Valvoline full synthetic the last 2 times, but the last time i used a Fram ultra guard filter, which is when i heard the knock. so I went to Walmart and got the mopar filter and put it in. No change, it still knocked. I'm hoping to hear something today, I have 40k miles on it and the engine is warranted to 50k so I want this taken care of ASAP. They did say they would give me back my 160 I paid for the purge valve because that wasn't the problem. I've been more than happy with the truck and i'm considering buying my lease at the end, but not if they don't fix it. I'll pay the extra mileage charge and be done with it.
This is textbook from what you have said and me not being able to examine the truck in person, if the revs go up and it goes away and only does it when the truck is running a while (oil up to temp and thinner, less "cushion" and film thickness as well as lower pressure) I am certain you have a top end oiling issue or a rod knock. It is most likely a rod though since the top end is not pressure lubed in a way that revs would eliminate the noise. Usually top end issues intensify with revs.

You need to have them actually test this and not just say "we can't hear it from below and it runs too good to have an issue". I had an engine EAT its bearings into the backing and it didn't make a sound at all and pulled harder than any stock engine you can get in a dodge. Still had damage that needed to be addressed. Since this is an DOHC engine there might be lifer/bucket wear occurring that is also making a tap that can be heard when the film gets thinner, I see it often on high mileage 3.5 hondas.

Also the thing that really rubs me the wrong way is that they didn't use a scan tool to manually cycle all the purge functions and other valves and manually tell the engine to cycle the phasers and manually step the RPM every 100 and then use the test function while listening through a stethoscope to actually isolate where the damn noise is coming from. Incompetence.
 

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I just went up to the dealer to check in person. Basically, they can't find out what's causing it. they think it has something to do with the air lines, or purge lines that go to the gas tank. They can feel pulsating in the lines when it makes the noise. they have decided to wait and see if it gets worse or the check engine light comes on. So they have no clue. I'll see if I can get a video of it later. They can't figure it out so they are done with it for now. They did give me my 160.00 back so... I guess i'll be turning it in when my lease is up for sure now.
Hi rathrbcruisin,
We are sorry to hear you are experiencing this. If this continues to happen, please send us a private message and we will see if we can offer any assistance!
Alex
Ram Social Care Specialist
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I took a video of it today. it is definitely getting louder, I think. I used a wooden dowel rod and probed around the engine. I think it is absolutely coming from the passenger side of the engine. I took a video but the sound I'm hearing does not come through so good because of all of the other noises of the engine but there are points in the video where I can hear the knock i'm speaking of. I'm not concerned with the ticking or clicking, its the heavy sounding knock that I hear. I can get another video if the rest of the engine is too loud to hear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNDB0dEZpkc
 

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I took a video of it today. it is definitely getting louder, I think. I used a wooden dowel rod and probed around the engine. I think it is absolutely coming from the passenger side of the engine. I took a video but the sound I'm hearing does not come through so good because of all of the other noises of the engine but there are points in the video where I can hear the knock i'm speaking of. I'm not concerned with the ticking or clicking, its the heavy sounding knock that I hear. I can get another video if the rest of the engine is too loud to hear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNDB0dEZpkc
I can hear it, I can't say anything based off that sound. Use the screwdriver trick to tell if it's coming from the valve cover, head or block that will help a lot. I wish I could see it in person since that would make this much easier lol
 

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Discussion Starter #17
There are tools that the shop would have, like an electronic stethoscope that would find the different noises

Different sound detection devices, including Chassis Ears

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp9kS4wwviY

They should have those tools. they said they used them but still could not find the noise. I think they are either inept or lazy as I used a wooden dowel rod and found the noise coming from under the valve covers.
 

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An article that I found

According to Automotive News, the Chrysler Group believes that roughly one half of 1% of the vehicles sold in the US with the Pentastar V6 could have an unexplained cylinder head issue with the bank containing the #2 cylinder. This problem can reportedly cause a ticking noise that can escalate to misfire conditions that can cause stalling and a loss of power…although Chrysler points out that it does not render the vehicle inoperable.

It should be noted that this is not a recall but rather, owners of Pentastar powered Chrysler Group vehicles who are experiencing these issues can visit their local dealership where the cylinder heads will be replaced under warranty. The Chrysler Group began replacing the heads under warranty after a handful of complaints were filed with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration pertaining to the new Pentastar powered Jeep Wrangler SUVs. Unfortunately for Chrysler, this problem isn’t specific to the open aired Jeep as select Dodge Journey, Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan models have also been found to exhibit this problem. A variation of the 3.6L Pentastar V6 is also used in the Dodge Charger, Dodge Challenger, Dodge Avenger, Dodge Durango, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Chrysler 300, Chrysler 200 and the new Ram 1500 – although none of those vehicles have been mentioned in the statements involving the problematic Pentastar engines.

Chrysler first recognized this problem around six weeks ago, at which point they began manufacturing a replacement cylinder head that is “more robust” along with fitting all newly produced Pentastar engines with these beefier heads. Chrysler has not identified the exact cause of the problem or the specific issue with the cylinder head that is occurring but a company representative has explained that the problems are a culmination of a variety of factors including (but not limited to) the quality of gasoline and the driving situations. Based on that, it sounds like the Pentastar engines are experiencing early detonation that can cause a ticking noise and as time goes on – more problems could creep up due to the incorrect firing of the #2 cylinder. If someone was to put very low quality, low octane gasoline in their Pentastar vehicle and then run the vehicle hard in very hot conditions, there is a good chance that detonation could be the issue especially when the driver keeps running the same gasoline and driving hard. However, the Chrysler Group believes that the variables needed to experience these problems will prevent the problem from occurring in most Pentastar powered vehicles. That being said, running higher quality gasoline could prevent those Pentastar powered vehicles from running into the #2 cylinder issue.
 
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