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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay. I've read on this forum that fuel blends for winter will give you less mpg than summer blends. My mpg kinda sucks right now. I'm averaging 15 to high 16's mpg with highway and city driving. When I'm on the highway, I'm averaging 19 to 20 mpg when I manipulate the gas peddle and drive conservitively. If I use the cruise control, I average slightly less.

I have a 2011 Crew Cab, 4.7, no performance mods. On the days that I take it to work, it's a total of 6 miles of city and 34 miles of hwy.

To all you 4.7 owners out there, what are you averaging?
-City/Hwy
-Lead foot/light foot
-Mods / no mods
-Cheap suggestions???
 

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I get around 14-15 city, 17-19 on the highway, calculated by hand. My EVIC shows about a MPG better than I'm actually getting.

I use cruise on the highway, and usually have a light foot. I tried E85 last week and noticed a considerable loss of economy...so I filled back up with regular.

This is a truck, I use it as a truck, so I'm not generally concerned with fuel economy though...
 

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Same as you, welcome to the 4.7 club LOL.

On the hwy, if I am VERY careful, I can average 22-24 with the DSP tune on 91 octane. The minute I get a headwind, it drops. The 4.7 is a small engine, and the Ram is a big truck. It takes alot of power to move 6,000lbs around. The Hemi does it effortlessly, the 4.7 does not.

A tuner will help, when the come out for your year. Till then...20mpg is acceptable for a stock 4.7.
 

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I gotta say when I had my 04 Ram QC 4wd SLT with a 4.7 I really loved it. I towed alot with it (4 wheelers snow sleds 33 foot tagalong) and I honestly didnt mind the lesser mileage because it was the torque that I needed for my applications and my offroading to our camp on the lake which is 50 miles of bad road. I put am K&N CAI, Gibson Cat back dual side swept, and hellwig spring helpers on rear that did not come into play until you loaded it. I loved that truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. I do know that when I am super careful and I manipulate the pedal with the terrain, I can push 19 - 20 mpg (occasionally 21-ish).

Last weekend I traveled 170 miles west on I-20 to visit my family. I drove in 3/4 to full head wind. Three days later I traveled east to come home and the whether had changed. I was returning home in a 3/4 to full value head wind (I just can't win. Lol).

I actually didn't do so bad on the return trip thanks to NASCAR drafting behind other cars and tractor-trailers in the next lane helping with the 3/4 value head wind.

I used to have an '02 Chev with a 4.3 V6, and before that I had a '94 Chev with a 4.3 V6. Compared to those 4.3 V6 engines, my 4.7 is a freaking power house. The '02 got insanely crappy mpg (big truck+small engine+E10=shitty mpg). When I think about my previous trucks, I feel a lot better.

I was in the process of conducting an experiment and I was going to post the results, but it's on hold now since my wife lost her job. Gotta pay the bills first.
 

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Thanks guys. I do know that when I am super careful and I manipulate the pedal with the terrain, I can push 19 - 20 mpg (occasionally 21-ish).

Last weekend I traveled 170 miles west on I-20 to visit my family. I drove in 3/4 to full head wind. Three days later I traveled east to come home and the whether had changed. I was returning home in a 3/4 to full value head wind (I just can't win. Lol).

I actually didn't do so bad on the return trip thanks to NASCAR drafting behind other cars and tractor-trailers in the next lane helping with the 3/4 value head wind.

I used to have an '02 Chev with a 4.3 V6, and before that I had a '94 Chev with a 4.3 V6. Compared to those 4.3 V6 engines, my 4.7 is a freaking power house. The '02 got insanely crappy mpg (big truck+small engine+E10=shitty mpg). When I think about my previous trucks, I feel a lot better.

I was in the process of conducting an experiment and I was going to post the results, but it's on hold now since my wife lost her job. Gotta pay the bills first.

Drafting is bad, be sure to keep a safe distance! Your truck weighs 6,000lbs, and will stop about as quickly as a bowling ball on a lane. :LOL:

The 2008+ 4.7 is MORE than adequate for these trucks. The motor is a beast. 310hp and 20mpg hwy out of a small block? In the days of our fathers, that was unheard of without some SERIOUS mods.
 

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The 2008+ 4.7 is MORE than adequate for these trucks. The motor is a beast. 310hp and 20mpg hwy out of a small block? In the days of our fathers, that was unheard of without some SERIOUS mods.
So true, I remember that my old power wagon was like 200 or so hp factory, and the 70 Charger R/T I had for a while was equipped with a 440 High Performance with dual feed holley carb. and it probably didnt have the HP of the 4.7 ...lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So true, I remember that my old power wagon was like 200 or so hp factory, and the 70 Charger R/T I had for a while was equipped with a 440 High Performance with dual feed holley carb. and it probably didnt have the HP of the 4.7 ...lol
I remember my '94 Cheyenne and '02 Silverado. The '94 Cheyenne was a reg cab short bed with a 20 gallon tank. Gas prices in 1995 was under a dollar and it was the good fuel :smiley_thumbs_up: $19 to fill up and that 4.3 gave me 20 mpg.

My '02 was an ext cab with a 25 gallon tank. That little 4.3 only put out around 190 hp. I used to wonder if she felt the difference in the 200 lbs of metal from the reg cab to the ext cab and the extra 50 lbs of fuel :4-dontknow: because she sure did get some really crappy mpg. I'm quite sure the E10 didn't help.

Now I have a brand new Dodge Ram with a 4.7 that's pumping out more than 100 more hp than my old 4.3's. Big difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Drafting is bad, be sure to keep a safe distance! Your truck weighs 6,000lbs, and will stop about as quickly as a bowling ball on a lane. :LOL:

The 2008+ 4.7 is MORE than adequate for these trucks. The motor is a beast. 310hp and 20mpg hwy out of a small block? In the days of our fathers, that was unheard of without some SERIOUS mods.
My first two trucks were 4.3 V6. Yeah, "...beast." is a good description for my 4.7.

Yeah, the NASCAR type of drafting was a joke. I've had the unfortunate task of working a couple of fatalities. However, I've had my head up my butt and started day dreaming and upon my return to reality, I've had to slam on the breaks and then pump it to get out of the ABS. I was really surprised at how quick my truck stopped. :SHOCKED:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Same as you, welcome to the 4.7 club LOL.

On the hwy, if I am VERY careful, I can average 22-24 with the DSP tune on 91 octane. The minute I get a headwind, it drops. The 4.7 is a small engine, and the Ram is a big truck. It takes alot of power to move 6,000lbs around. The Hemi does it effortlessly, the 4.7 does not.

A tuner will help, when the come out for your year. Till then...20mpg is acceptable for a stock 4.7.
I have ZERO knowledge about tuners. Then again, I don't have much knowledge about anything? Will it void my warranty? Will I lose anything during the reprogramming to gain better mpg? What does it do to the truck to make it change?
 

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I have ZERO knowledge about tuners. Then again, I don't have much knowledge about anything? Will it void my warranty? Will I lose anything during the reprogramming to gain better mpg? What does it do to the truck to make it change?
The Tuner will change your shift points, and reprogram your ECU. You can change alot of other things with it too such as A/F ratio, timing, etc.

If you hit the wrong button, all you do is re-install the stock tune, which my tuner automatically downloaded the second I plugged it into the OBDII port on my truck. It takes less than 30 seconds to unlock roughly 30HP. Best $300 I ever spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
The Tuner will change your shift points, and reprogram your ECU. You can change alot of other things with it too such as A/F ratio, timing, etc.

If you hit the wrong button, all you do is re-install the stock tune, which my tuner automatically downloaded the second I plugged it into the OBDII port on my truck. It takes less than 30 seconds to unlock roughly 30HP. Best $300 I ever spent.
Ummmmm..... yeah....
"ECU"? :4-dontknow:
"A/F ratio..."?:4-dontknow:
"Timing..."?:4-dontknow:
"OBDII port..."?:4-dontknow:

What is all that?

Does it void the warranty?
 

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I get roughly 15-18 city and 19-22 hwy. Depends on many factors. This sunday I drove all highway to gatornationals, sat in a lot of traffic once there, and a lot of traffic back home, and averaged 19mpg. Normally to and from work though I average like 17mpg and that's no highway, but not downtown traffic either... If I hardly move like when downtown, then yes I get about 15mpg.

Sometimes I'm lead foot, sometimes I'm light foot. Probably less lead and more light.

I have a superchips flashpaq tuner and use the 93 octane performance tune. UNBELIEVABLE power difference, and small mpg difference. The mpg gain is basically offset by the higher fuel cost. There are economy tunes that might give better cost/mile, but I get way more power with this and still better mpg, so I'm happy.

Cheap suggestions??? Well tuners aren't available for 2011's but when they come out I'd get the SC flashpaq. It's by far the best bang/buck (could also go with the diablo too, it's pretty good but IMO not as good). Also there are tow tunes they help out when hauling.

I love my 4.7L, it's a great little v8. It has as much power as most other small and medium displacement v8's, better mpg, and potential to easily have the power of the big engines.
 

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Ummmmm..... yeah....
"ECU"?
"A/F ratio..."?
"Timing..."?
"OBDII port..."?

What is all that?

Does it void the warranty?
ECU(engine control unit), another term for ECM(engine control module). It is basically the "computer", it controls all the fueling, ignition timing, basically everything engine related that is electronic. Actually our trucks have PCM's(powertrain control modules), not ECM's. Same thing basically. ECM controls engine only, PCM controls it all. Some cars have ECM's plus TCM's(trans control modules), these trucks have PCM's that handle it all.

A/F ratio is the air/fuel ratio of the fuel going into the engine. The tuner's can manipulate the A/F ratio for better power and mpg. It is not dangerous (as long as done correctly). With the "canned" tunes (like from a plug and play tuner) they are safe and won't do harm. If you do custom tuning and someone doesn't know what they are doing they can screw up the A/F ratio's to harmful levels both too lean or too rich.

Timing, he's referring to ignition timing. In other words, when the spark plug fires relative to where the piston is in it's rotation. Usually advancing the timing(firing before the piston is at top dead center) gives more power. The tuners do this. Depending on compression ratio's and fuel octane, and load on the vehicle, ignition advance can be harmful. OEM tuning has it very conservative. With the 93 octane tune you can run without a load safely, but if you use say 89 or 87 octane with that tune, you could cause pinging/detonation in the engine which can be harmful. Also if you run the 93 performance tune with a load or trailer it could be too much load for that tune and be harmful.

OBDII port stands for on board diagnostics 2 port. It is a plug under the steering column/dash that you can plug a tuner, diagnostics tool, etc. into to access the PCM/computer, to read engine light codes, perform tuning operations, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ECU(engine control unit), another term for ECM(engine control module). It is basically the "computer", it controls all the fueling, ignition timing, basically everything engine related that is electronic. Actually our trucks have PCM's(powertrain control modules), not ECM's. Same thing basically. ECM controls engine only, PCM controls it all. Some cars have ECM's plus TCM's(trans control modules), these trucks have PCM's that handle it all.

A/F ratio is the air/fuel ratio of the fuel going into the engine. The tuner's can manipulate the A/F ratio for better power and mpg. It is not dangerous (as long as done correctly). With the "canned" tunes (like from a plug and play tuner) they are safe and won't do harm. If you do custom tuning and someone doesn't know what they are doing they can screw up the A/F ratio's to harmful levels both too lean or too rich.

Timing, he's referring to ignition timing. In other words, when the spark plug fires relative to where the piston is in it's rotation. Usually advancing the timing(firing before the piston is at top dead center) gives more power. The tuners do this. Depending on compression ratio's and fuel octane, and load on the vehicle, ignition advance can be harmful. OEM tuning has it very conservative. With the 93 octane tune you can run without a load safely, but if you use say 89 or 87 octane with that tune, you could cause pinging/detonation in the engine which can be harmful. Also if you run the 93 performance tune with a load or trailer it could be too much load for that tune and be harmful.

OBDII port stands for on board diagnostics 2 port. It is a plug under the steering column/dash that you can plug a tuner, diagnostics tool, etc. into to access the PCM/computer, to read engine light codes, perform tuning operations, etc...
So basically, if the A/F ratio is not reprogrammed, then cold air intakes or drop in K&N filters are pretty much a mute point since a computer determines the flow. Correct? ...Kinda correct?

Given the description of "timing", it probably would not be worth it for me to use a tuner since I use it for pulling and regular driving. I don't have a lead foot. I have no desire to fork out the extra cash for 93 octane on every fill up.

Thanks for the explanation. The "timing" thing just really reeled me back and made me realize I should keep the mods at a minimum. I may just stick with visual body mods and someday after I kick my kids out of the house and free up some extra cash, I'll put on a deep rumbling exhaust.
 

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So basically, if the A/F ratio is not reprogrammed, then cold air intakes or drop in K&N filters are pretty much a mute point since a computer determines the flow. Correct? ...Kinda correct?
No. Think of it like this: Stoich A/F ratio is I think 14.7:1. So that's 14.7 "parts" air to 1 "part" gas. You can double the volume of air and gas and still have the same A/F ratio; 29.4 "parts" of air to 2 "parts" gas. Same ratio, different volumes, the second one will give let's just say double the power output. So just because the computer will adjust to the same A/F ratio, doesn't mean you are not getting more air and fuel into the engine. The CAI's still help even with stock tuning. Now they only help a little bit, but they do help.

The tuner's have several tunes (they have an 87 octane tune that still adds a lot of power). There is probably a tune to fit your liking/application. I use the 93 tune because I rarely tow/haul a lot of weight. When I do haul/tow I just switch to the 87 tune and leave the 93 octane in the tank, and it only takes ~15 min to do that. Many people use the 87 tune day to day, with 87 gas, then if they tow they fill up for that tank with 89 or 91 or 93 octane. The higher octane gives a little more protection, you probably wouldn't want to tow with 87 octane on the 87 tune.

EDIT: Just to be clear, the SC has the following tunes:

mileage XS (mpg tune, with 87 octane)
87 performance
91 performance
93 performance
tow (I think requires 91 octane)...better to use the 87 tune with 91 octane...better mpg and just as much added power.

And here are the MAX gains:

87 tune = 38hp and 30lbft
91 tune = 50hp and 55lbft
93 tune = 61hp and 67lbft
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
No. Think of it like this: Stoich A/F ratio is I think 14.7:1. So that's 14.7 "parts" air to 1 "part" gas. You can double the volume of air and gas and still have the same A/F ratio; 29.4 "parts" of air to 2 "parts" gas. Same ratio, different volumes, the second one will give let's just say double the power output. So just because the computer will adjust to the same A/F ratio, doesn't mean you are not getting more air and fuel into the engine. The CAI's still help even with stock tuning. Now they only help a little bit, but they do help.

The tuner's have several tunes (they have an 87 octane tune that still adds a lot of power). There is probably a tune to fit your liking/application. I use the 93 tune because I rarely tow/haul a lot of weight. When I do haul/tow I just switch to the 87 tune and leave the 93 octane in the tank, and it only takes ~15 min to do that. Many people use the 87 tune day to day, with 87 gas, then if they tow they fill up for that tank with 89 or 91 or 93 octane. The higher octane gives a little more protection, you probably wouldn't want to tow with 87 octane on the 87 tune.

EDIT: Just to be clear, the SC has the following tunes:

mileage XS (mpg tune, with 87 octane)
87 performance
91 performance
93 performance
tow (I think requires 91 octane)...better to use the 87 tune with 91 octane...better mpg and just as much added power.

And here are the MAX gains:

87 tune = 38hp and 30lbft
91 tune = 50hp and 55lbft
93 tune = 61hp and 67lbft
:4-looney: MAN..... I'm thinking about cutting and pasting bits and pieces from this forum and making my own quick reference manual to keep in my garage.

You stated "MAX gains". Not trying to sound like a smart ass, but am I supposed to read that as one who would read a manufactures advertisement of "GAINS"? These "MAX gains" are only at peak rpm (if I said that correctly). Am I correct or just as lost as before?

Does a tuner void the warranty?
 

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MAN..... I'm thinking about cutting and pasting bits and pieces from this forum and making my own quick reference manual to keep in my garage.

You stated "MAX gains". Not trying to sound like a smart ass, but am I supposed to read that as one who would read a manufactures advertisement of "GAINS"? These "MAX gains" are only at peak rpm (if I said that correctly). Am I correct or just as lost as before?
LOL. Please do, I have to.

MAX gain is what just about any aftermarket part manufacturer advertises(because it makes it look more impressive). MAX gains are not necessarily(and not usually) at the peak power rpm. They are the largest gain, usually at a lower rpm. So say MAX gain is 61hp at 3,000 rpm's, PEAK gain may be 23hp at 6,000 rpm. Just examples, not necessarily accurate...
 

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It will not void your warranty, as long as you reinstall the stock tune before you go to the dealership, you will be fine. :)
 
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