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haha yeah a lot of my thread is fluff and screwing around....sorry ;)

I actually bought my converter used from a good member on here with a built up 3rd gen hemi. It is an edge converter. No actual issues, just doesn't perform as well as I'd like but that's probably because it was built for his truck which produces peak torque at a lower rpm, more hp, and it was lighter with much higher numerical gear ratio. I don't really mind the soft pedal too much, although it was a big downside to the converter while towing up the mountains. That's really the main reason to go back to stock.

I think he said it was like a 3000 or 3200 rpm stall on his truck. On mine it's about a 2700 rpm stall. What I don't like is when I floor it it seems to launch then bog for a second then proceed to accelerate. Again, probably because it's not really a perfect fit for my setup.

FWIW I believe the stock 4.7L converter is a 2400rpm stall.
 

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There's some good info mixed in with your fluff,lol:smileup:.

You know that's something i haven't done yet,is step on the brakes and see where it does stall too.

If the stock 4.7's convertor does stall at 2400,that makes me wonder how close it is to the RT's 2600 convertor.
Do you know if they might be the same convertor?

I'm not as familar as i should be with these convertors,but it almost sounds like the engagement just past stall is tightening up a bit fast on you,torque or lack there of could be the problem if the convertor was built more cubes.
Rick
 

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the RT has a different converter, not he same as the 4.7 or any other ram model. It's unique to the RT.

It flashes to ~2700rpm (no brake). Stock should flash stall to around 2400 rpm.
 

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What's yours stall at Sean?

Flash and stall are usually quite a bit differant.

It does make me wonder though,what the differance is between the RT and the 4.7's convertor.
A 4.7's convertor might be a cheap upgrade for the guys with the 5.7,lol.
Theoritically the RT's version should be a bit heavier duty,but is it,lol:4-looney:
 

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Brake, flash, and true stall all are different numbers. I don't recall if they rate them by flash or true stall, but mine flashes to about 2700rpm on my truck. I believe the guy I bought it from said it flashed to about 3000rpm on his.

Considering the cost of an oem converter, I'd think an aftermarket one would be the best option.

BTW transengineer could give you the different part numbers and specifications for all the oem converters if you're interested.
 

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Brake and True stall are pretty close on rpm,Flash is the one that's usually noticably higher.
Not sure how most convertors are rated these days,but it used to be brake that was used.


I was thinking of used with a flush,lol.
I haven't checked,but i'm thinking used 4.7 convertors should be virtually free,lol.
Throw a flush on it,and away you go,but it'd only be for the guys who are really bucks down.
If you can afford aftermarket,that's definitely the better choice.

I'm hoping TE is sorta watching this,cause i would like to know the differances in the stock vertors.
Rick
 

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Well you can get an aftermarket converter for ~$200. Other than a junkyard (kind of a pain) it'll prob be hard to find used unless you find someone that swapped in an aftermarket one. But most 4.7 owner's aren't performance seekers lol.
 

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LOL,okay now that i hadn't thought of.;).

Yea what is there about a 1/2 dozen of us interested in the 4.7.
Just kidding i know there's more,just seems like that's all though,lol.

I'm waiting to see how long Darkknight's takes a 125 shot,think i seen him post he was stepping up to a bigger shot awhile ago,lol.

I wonder how his head gaskets are gonna take it,as far as i can tell,the 4.7's have a fairly tough bottom end,but light on head gasket clamping.
Still way behind on learning these motors though,lol.
 

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Yeah I used to email with him just about daily but haven't lately. Not sure exactly what he's up to right now, think he's in school.

The 4.7L bottom end is very strong. It uses a one piece crank girdle(in lieu of individual main caps). Not sure if the 4.7 has the same thin top ring land like the hemi. Probably does due to emissions as I think that's why it's designed that way.
 

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It is a fairly recent design engine as far as i've found out.
I haven't pinned the exact date down ,but it looks like the engine was designed in the late 90's.
So i would think you're right about a light top ring.

I've never seen a pic of the 4.7's internals,if you have anything worth reading on them Sean,i'd sure appreciate reading it.:smileup:
Thanks
Rick
 

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I'm going to fix the exhaust leak on the 27th. I don't know how yet lol. The exhaust is leaking at the band clamp. I'm going to first try wrapping the joint with header wrap, then installing the band clamp. The code I'm getting is a lean code on the rear O2 sensor that is right next to the band clamp. It's nothing to do with the cats or catalytic efficiency, so the non fouler's are working from what I can tell. I've done probably 1000 miles since the exhaust work.
 

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Thanks. I'm going to try exhaust wrap first, if it doesn't work I might try that.

My CEL keeps going on/off due to the leak. I'm just happy it's not cat related. The truck is getting noticeably better mpg and seems slightly more powerful. I'm surprised to say that removing the cats is probably the most noticeable modification I've done performance wise next to the tuner. I'm getting about 22mpg at 70-75mph pretty easily currently. That used to be pretty rare maybe at 65mph.
 

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Finally was nice enough yesterday to crawl around under mine.
My back 02 sensor is in a differant spot then yours Sean
The back sensor actually goes into the side of the cat itself,not in the pipe.
Not sure where in hell to mount a bung for my A/F gauge now,lol.
It says to mount it at least 18 inches downstream of the manifold and ahead of the cat.
My cats are roughly only 6 inches behind the manifolds,so to get the A/F gauge mounted 18" downstream of the manifolds,i'm well behind the cats.
Not sure how the A/F will work if it's behind the cats.
Kinda puts me in a bind for modding the exhaust,as i'm wondering if the non foulers are even an option on the later trucks with the sensor into the cat itself.
This is the first one i've seen where the sensor is actually in the cat itself.
 

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Mine were the same hornet, the downstream sensors were in the center of the cats. Don't see why the non fouler trick wouldn't work there.

I tried exhaust wrap it was very difficult to tighten the clamp since the diameter was larger, and didn't seem to seal that well. Then tried wrapping the joints with tin foil a few times before putting the clamp on, this worked fairly well. Couldn't hear or feel any air around the clamps after but the code came back so it's still leaking. I'm either going to try a different type of clamp(maybe a donut) or move the rear O2 sensor closer to the engine by like 12" + or as much as possible.
 

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I'm really interested in your progress.

After looking mine over close yesterday,the crossover pipe needs some work that's for sure.
So if you get your cel figured out,let me know,lol.
My cats just might fall off,and a new crossover pipe might go in,if you get your's sorted out:smileup:.

The code it's setting isn't keeping it from going into closed loop ,or sending it into limp home mode is it?

Rick
 

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Yeah the downstream sensors don't really effect the performance at all,they just monitor emissions and compare a/f ratio to the upstream. But they don't effect how it runs. The easiest way to deal with this is to get a diablo tuner and have a custom tune and they can just turn off the rear sensors. But I refuse to give up the superchips because it's better than the diablo custom tune I had before. I just need to get a clamp that seals. I should have thought a head a little more too and not put the sensor right by the clamp. They say you should not put a sensor within 18" of a clamp, I wasn't thinking of that when we welded the bung in.
 

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Just to keep you updated I figured out what I'm going to do as a fix for my leak. I'm going to replace all the lap joints/band clamps with these ball/socket joints:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/31902/10002/-1?parentProductId=1353765

My light isn't on anymore, the tin foil helped but it's still leaking. The light was going on/off for a while and has finally stayed off. But once I weld in these new joints there's no way it'll leak.
 
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