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OK so i have a 98 dodge ram 1500 5.9L 4wd and so about a month ago my 4wd just quit working but the 4wd light was on and never blinked. I presumed it was the actuator since the vacuum lines were good. Once i replaced it, it seemed to move with more force than the old one so i figured that was it. It wasn't. i hooked everything back up and i still cannot get the dam thing to work. The collar slides fine and when i put the new actuator on and it didnt work, i left it in 4wd and took the actuator back off to make sure i didnt put the fork in and missed the collar, But the collar was slide the to left locking in the hubs so the actuator worked (so i dont think vacuum is the problem in this case)but still no 4wd. The front drive shaft turns when i drive so im guessing its something in the pumpkin because right now thats the only thing left that i have not checked and i want to get someones oppinon before i go taking the cover off and wasting money on some differential fluid. Also only in the morning when its cold will my check engine light blink and then go on the whole time but My check engine light it always ON because of my o2 sensors. The service4wd light has never came on. Any suggestions before i waste anymore money? Also the way im testing if the 4wd is on is theres snow on the ground so i do a burnout in the snow and i stick my head out the window and see if the front wheels spin. Also when my 4wd first went out i was in my driveway that hasnt been plowed and i floored it and it almost sounded like metal on metal but not a loud noise but still a noise came from something. Differential fluid is topped out so its not likes its out of fluid and was running dry.
 

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So, you're front diff is open, so sticking your head out the window while doing a burnout isn't really going to tell you anything conclusively as the other tire might be spinning. Put the truck up on blocks to test for sure.

The front driveshaft will always spin when you're driving because of friction in the pumpkin and the fact that the drivers side wheel is never disengaged from the axle. Given where the sensor is located for the 4wd indicator, if your 4wd light comes on, your shift collar is engaged. So you are correct to assume that the problem, if one exists, is in the pumpkin.

So you have two options, block up the truck to check that the 4wd isn't working or if you only have drive to one wheel, etc. Or open up your diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I back the rear end into snow so i know that the right front wheel isnt turning. And also when i took the acctuator off, the collar was slide over both axles locking them in and nothing happened. Also the wheels dont really hop when you turn tight also and i know thats not good on it but its one way to know if your in 4wd.
 

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Well, if you're certain that you've got no drive to the front wheels and your front drive shaft is turning. Either you have a broken axle or you have a broken diff. Considering how difficult it is to get the wheel bearing assembly off if it's at all rusted, I'd start with the diff. That's $10 for the gasket and $20 for the gear oil vs. $120 each for the wheel bearing assembly if you have to ruin your current ones getting them off to get at the axles. Also the $40+ you'd need to spend on the socket for the axle nut if you don't already have one that big.
 

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Jack up the truck and put jack stands in all 4 corners. Have someone inside the truck, while in gear throw it in 4wd and out. Make sure you do this on level ground.
 

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Check the transfer case for leaks, if the fluid got low the drive chain may have stretched and popped off (or it may have broken anyhow), this would explain the noise. Mine made a kind of intermittent grinding/clunking noise that sounded like when a torque convertor blows up.
 

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If the propshaft is turning in 4wd, that doesn't mean that the x-fer case is driving it. It could be being turned by the fact that it locked to the wheels, and actually spinning free in the x-fer case. I would start with the x-fer shifter linkage, and make sure it is moving the lever into the proper positions.
 

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Are wheel bearing assembly's really $120 in the States cause in Canada they are at least $280 for a good non abs assembly
 

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Are wheel bearing assembly's really $120 in the States cause in Canada they are at least $280 for a good non abs assembly
Yes they are. But I CAN'T say GOOD assembly's, because I don't know who makes one now. I lost faith in Timken. Dont know where to go now.
 
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