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So glad I found this thread! So I have a 2012 1500 4x4 Express and just bought a 2018 Challenger 392. My plan is to pull the 392, replace it with a 426 forged stroker and put the 392 in my 1500. From the sound of it i would need to get my pcm retuned to match the 392, is that correct? Is there any information you can add to this??
 

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So glad I found this thread! So I have a 2012 1500 4x4 Express and just bought a 2018 Challenger 392. My plan is to pull the 392, replace it with a 426 forged stroker and put the 392 in my 1500. From the sound of it i would need to get my pcm retuned to match the 392, is that correct? Is there any information you can add to this??
Just FWIW, the Apache Hemi in your Challenger is not the same 6.4L/392 inch Hemi that's in the HD trucks.

The Apache swap can be done though, Prefix offers it as an a la carte deal
 

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So glad I found this thread! So I have a 2012 1500 4x4 Express and just bought a 2018 Challenger 392. My plan is to pull the 392, replace it with a 426 forged stroker and put the 392 in my 1500. From the sound of it i would need to get my pcm retuned to match the 392, is that correct? Is there any information you can add to this??
Like he said, not like the truck version, but I'm guessing you aren't swapping it to be like the truck version lol. Just remember to make sure that 426 is VVT based. If I recall correctly no one has a tuner yet so you'll need a PCM for that Chally when you do. More importantly...have fun with that 392 in front of that RFE bwahahahahaha
 

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Discussion Starter #64
So glad I found this thread! So I have a 2012 1500 4x4 Express and just bought a 2018 Challenger 392. My plan is to pull the 392, replace it with a 426 forged stroker and put the 392 in my 1500. From the sound of it i would need to get my pcm retuned to match the 392, is that correct? Is there any information you can add to this??
Easy swap. Nothing to add that hasn't already been said. Better make sure you have 4:10 diff gears or better to make it that much easier on the 65rfe transmission. And I now have almost 10,000 miles on the 6.4 and no complaints. Wish I had the 8 speed but that's way out of reach. Averaging about 14 - 15 mpg combined with 3:55 and 35" tires. I dont beat on it though. Towing 6000 lbs from Tucson to Yuma (200 miles) was about 8 - 9 mph. So exactly what you would expect from any Hemi. Best mod by far was the headers.
 

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So the 5.7 & 6.4 are the same block right? How about the heads? So my question is if your 5.7 is still good & you’re just wanting the power what’s the difference between the 2? I know bore & stroke. But what’s it take to build a 6.4 out of your 5.7?
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
So the 5.7 & 6.4 are the same block right? How about the heads? So my question is if your 5.7 is still good & you’re just wanting the power what’s the difference between the 2? I know bore & stroke. But what’s it take to build a 6.4 out of your 5.7?
The block is the same outside but the internals are different. The 6.4 has piston oil squirters and some beefed up weak spots. But if you bored out a 5.7 and used a 6.4 rotating assembly then that would do it. But if I were to do that I would just build a stroker with a kit like Arrington sells. If your 5.7 is still good then you can make more power for less money.
 

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Same external dimensions but very different blocks. The heavy duty/performance blocks have more stiffening cast into them, oil squirters, etc. 6.4 has a bigger bore than the 5.7. Also not sure about the truck 6.4, but the car version has very different cylinder heads (apaches) which cannot be put on a 5.7 (valves are too big) unless you open the bore uncomfortably big or do bore notching (not a fan of that either). With your truck, you could drop in a factory 392 (your PCM will run it) or stroke out your 5.7 (eagle heads are good for about 600hp NA) and have fun til your RFE blows LMaO.
 

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am planning on doing the same thing but my 6.4 is out of a challenger, which is at the machine shop getting resleave, but all that work and money for only 10hp, is it even worth all that, but next question was that just a basic tune or custom tune,
 

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am planning on doing the same thing but my 6.4 is out of a challenger, which is at the machine shop getting resleave, but all that work and money for only 10hp, is it even worth all that, but next question was that just a basic tune or custom tune,
The Challenger 6.4 is not the same engine as the truck 6.4. You'll get around 90 hp from the Apache in the Challenger
 

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Discussion Starter #70
am planning on doing the same thing but my 6.4 is out of a challenger, which is at the machine shop getting resleave, but all that work and money for only 10hp, is it even worth all that, but next question was that just a basic tune or custom tune,
About 10 hp increase over the 5.7 with the truck 6.4 yes. But that power is made much lower in the RPM range. The SRT 6.4 may have 70 more horsepower but has nowhere near the low-end power that the truck 6.4 has. And in my case, I was going to spend the money either way. Might as well have spent it on a 6.4 that will do what I need it to do. I can't tow with an SRT 6.4
 

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About 10 hp increase over the 5.7 with the truck 6.4 yes. But that power is made much lower in the RPM range. The SRT 6.4 may have 70 more horsepower but has nowhere near the low-end power that the truck 6.4 has. And in my case, I was going to spend the money either way. Might as well have spent it on a 6.4 that will do what I need it to do. I can't tow with an SRT 6.4
Great write up!
Looking at doing this with a crate 6.4 My question is intake manifold/injectors....are the 5.7 injectors large enough for your tuner to use?
 

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Discussion Starter #72
About 10 hp increase over the 5.7 with the truck 6.4 yes. But that power is made much lower in the RPM range. The SRT 6.4 may have 70 more horsepower but has nowhere near the low-end power that the truck 6.4 has. And in my case, I was going to spend the money either way. Might as well have spent it on a 6.4 that will do what I need it to do. I can't tow with an SRT 6.4
Great write up!
Looking at doing this with a crate 6.4 My question is intake manifold/injectors....are the 5.7 injectors large enough for your tuner to use?
Yes. The 5.7 injectors are big enough for the 6.4. But the 5.7 injectors will not fit in the 6.4 inake or vise versa. The 6.4 injectors are longer. But the tuner I have from Syked Ecu will use any size injector you plug into it and the 5.7 injectors have enough flow to accommodate the 6.4 power.
 

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Great write up!
Looking at doing this with a crate 6.4 My question is intake manifold/injectors....are the 5.7 injectors large enough for your tuner to use?
Plenty...to put things in perspective: the eagle 5.7 injectors are the same (identical, same part number) as the 6.1 SRT injectors.
 

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Hello everyone! I could not find anyone who has done this so I figured I'd tell everyone my experience and hopefully answer some questions. If youre looking at this on a phone you'll have to scroll to the bottom and exit the mobile view to see all the pictures. I have a 2012 Ram 1500 Express 4x4. The whole reason I did this is because I threw a rod in the 5.7 and destroyed the block. Warranty expired too. So, I ripped the old engine out and got online to find a new one. Well, I came across a brand new on the crate 6.4 truck hemi for $4000. After an entire night of research I went and picked it up the next morning. These engines use the same block, sensors, oil pan etc.


Since I had the old engine it made the next part easy. I got rid of all the EGR crap and made a little plate to cover the hole on the intake manifold out of some scrap sheet metal. I reused the exhaust manifolds from the 5.7 so I didnt have to worry about the EGR hole there. The 6.4 uses a different timing cover and water pump too. I swapped these out for the original 5.7 ones because it didnt have any of the EGR cooling ports and oil cooler ports on it. I used the old wiring harness that goes under the intake manifold to the MDS solenoids as the new one had the connection in a different spot. I also removed the oil cooler where the filter goes. Other than that, I didnt have to change any sensors or anything else that would cause a problem.
I threw the new engine in and everything bolted right up. The 6.4 intake manifold is a little different. I had to extend the wires for the plug that goes to the variable intake runner servo. No big deal just some wire and electrical connectors. The A/C lines ran right over the intake with no problem. Now I used the 5.7 throttle body because the electrical connectors changed in 2013 and this is a 2014 engine but the port is the same size and it bolts up the same. If you are doing this to a 2013 or newer truck you could just use the 6.4 throttle body. I am eventually going to make a real cold air intake but for now this filter setup works fine.
The 6.4 intake manifold does not have a port for the brake booster as the 2500 and 3500 use a vacuum pump for this. I drilled a hole in the manifold and installed a barbed fitting for the hose and this works perfectly. I used sealant/adhesive around the connections. So all that said and done, I still needed to get it tuned. You could get a handheld and bring it to a custom tuner but I went an easier route. I contacted Kevin Sykes over at Syked ECU Tuning and mailed him my PCM. I gave him a list of everything I did with all the details and he took it from there. Got it back in the mail, plugged it in, and she fired right up. There are no check engine lights or noises. Runs like a dream. VERY powerful compared to the 5.7. Dont get wrapped up around the 6.4 only having 10 more HP. The power curve is very different. The 6.4 makes a ton of power at low RPM right where you use it every day. The only things I have planned to do is make the new cold air intake, and once that is done I will run a tube into it for the crankcase breather instead of that little filter on there. This swap could easily be done with just a new long block 6.4 and swap all your old 5.7 parts over. I am open to any questions and willing to send pictures of specific parts. Good luck!
And heres the old block. The plant is in an old dirtbike piston.







OP, sorry to revive this old thread. Great work by the way.


I am looking to do something similar to this. I have a 2012 2500 with a blown 5.7. While looking for options, later motor seem easier to come by than the 2010-2012 versions like I have. It looks like compatability is not a big issue but I have one question that I haven't found a solid answer to.


Both the 2012 and the 2013&up motors use a 58 tooth crank wheel, however there is a difference on (I believe) the reluctor and the sensor. You mentioned that you did not change sensors over between the 5.7
and the 6.4, but if your 6.4 is a 2014 and your truck a 2012, the reluctor wheels "should" have been different. How does one get around this? Are you simply to use the sensor that matches the reluctor or the sensor that matches your PCM? Any input would be appreciated...
 

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Just seen the thread- NICE. I always said: get the 6.4 in the 1500. I'd love to see this as a stock option.


I have just one critic point and me as OCD- battling tech- why did you not clean everything before you got the engine back in? Man- it bothered me so much to see the old dirty, nasty looking collaboration around this nice, clean engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Hello everyone! I could not find anyone who has done this so I figured I'd tell everyone my experience and hopefully answer some questions. If youre looking at this on a phone you'll have to scroll to the bottom and exit the mobile view to see all the pictures. I have a 2012 Ram 1500 Express 4x4. The whole reason I did this is because I threw a rod in the 5.7 and destroyed the block. Warranty expired too. So, I ripped the old engine out and got online to find a new one. Well, I came across a brand new on the crate 6.4 truck hemi for $4000. After an entire night of research I went and picked it up the next morning. These engines use the same block, sensors, oil pan etc.


Since I had the old engine it made the next part easy. I got rid of all the EGR crap and made a little plate to cover the hole on the intake manifold out of some scrap sheet metal. I reused the exhaust manifolds from the 5.7 so I didnt have to worry about the EGR hole there. The 6.4 uses a different timing cover and water pump too. I swapped these out for the original 5.7 ones because it didnt have any of the EGR cooling ports and oil cooler ports on it. I used the old wiring harness that goes under the intake manifold to the MDS solenoids as the new one had the connection in a different spot. I also removed the oil cooler where the filter goes. Other than that, I didnt have to change any sensors or anything else that would cause a problem.
I threw the new engine in and everything bolted right up. The 6.4 intake manifold is a little different. I had to extend the wires for the plug that goes to the variable intake runner servo. No big deal just some wire and electrical connectors. The A/C lines ran right over the intake with no problem. Now I used the 5.7 throttle body because the electrical connectors changed in 2013 and this is a 2014 engine but the port is the same size and it bolts up the same. If you are doing this to a 2013 or newer truck you could just use the 6.4 throttle body. I am eventually going to make a real cold air intake but for now this filter setup works fine.
The 6.4 intake manifold does not have a port for the brake booster as the 2500 and 3500 use a vacuum pump for this. I drilled a hole in the manifold and installed a barbed fitting for the hose and this works perfectly. I used sealant/adhesive around the connections. So all that said and done, I still needed to get it tuned. You could get a handheld and bring it to a custom tuner but I went an easier route. I contacted Kevin Sykes over at Syked ECU Tuning and mailed him my PCM. I gave him a list of everything I did with all the details and he took it from there. Got it back in the mail, plugged it in, and she fired right up. There are no check engine lights or noises. Runs like a dream. VERY powerful compared to the 5.7. Dont get wrapped up around the 6.4 only having 10 more HP. The power curve is very different. The 6.4 makes a ton of power at low RPM right where you use it every day. The only things I have planned to do is make the new cold air intake, and once that is done I will run a tube into it for the crankcase breather instead of that little filter on there. This swap could easily be done with just a new long block 6.4 and swap all your old 5.7 parts over. I am open to any questions and willing to send pictures of specific parts. Good luck!
And heres the old block. The plant is in an old dirtbike piston.







OP, sorry to revive this old thread. Great work by the way.


I am looking to do something similar to this. I have a 2012 2500 with a blown 5.7. While looking for options, later motor seem easier to come by than the 2010-2012 versions like I have. It looks like compatability is not a big issue but I have one question that I haven't found a solid answer to.


Both the 2012 and the 2013&up motors use a 58 tooth crank wheel, however there is a difference on (I believe) the reluctor and the sensor. You mentioned that you did not change sensors over between the 5.7
and the 6.4, but if your 6.4 is a 2014 and your truck a 2012, the reluctor wheels "should" have been different. How does one get around this? Are you simply to use the sensor that matches the reluctor or the sensor that matches your PCM? Any input would be appreciated...
Just took this picture of the sensor. I did swap some sensors from the old engine to the new one but I dont remember if this was one of them. Not sure if you could tell the difference from a picture or not either. But I can tell you that I have 21,000 miles on the 6.4 without any issues or check engine lights. So maybe the newer sensor reads the reluctor wheel and sends the same signal to the computer as the old sensor + wheel. If I ever have the oil pan off again I will take some pictures of the wheel and post them here. I get that question alot.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Just seen the thread- NICE. I always said: get the 6.4 in the 1500. I'd love to see this as a stock option.


I have just one critic point and me as OCD- battling tech- why did you not clean everything before you got the engine back in? Man- it bothered me so much to see the old dirty, nasty looking collaboration around this nice, clean engine.
I am usually a clean freak as well. But, it was just shy of 120 degrees that week here in Yuma, Arizona. I wasnt really taking my time to address all the details. And after one week of driving here in the desert it would have looked exactly the same anyways. It's my daily driver and I just wanted to have a vehicle with A/C as soon as possible because riding a motorcycle here in August is basically suicide. You know when you open the oven door and the heat hits your face? It's like that. But permanently.
 

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Just took this picture of the sensor. I did swap some sensors from the old engine to the new one but I dont remember if this was one of them. Not sure if you could tell the difference from a picture or not either. But I can tell you that I have 21,000 miles on the 6.4 without any issues or check engine lights. So maybe the newer sensor reads the reluctor wheel and sends the same signal to the computer as the old sensor + wheel. If I ever have the oil pan off again I will take some pictures of the wheel and post them here. I get that question alot.
I have a 2006 mega cab. It’s a non mds engine. Can the mds for the 6.4 be shut off?
What did you use to control the intake servo?
I have the 545RFE I how do you think that would compare to the 6 speed you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I have a 2006 mega cab. It’s a non mds engine. Can the mds for the 6.4 be shut off?
What did you use to control the intake servo?
I have the 545RFE I how do you think that would compare to the 6 speed you have?
Any tuner can disable the MDS. And the 5.7 already had the variable intake runners so the 6.4 servo plugged right in to the existing wire. The 6 speed is undoubtedly better than the 5 speed but that's a whole different project on it's own. In your situation since you have a 2006, none of the wires will match and you will run into a bunch of little problems. You're better off finding a 6.1 hemi that will pretty much bolt right in.
 
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