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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wussup "Z"? Gotta question for you, I'm driving a 2014 Longhorn that's just rolling over 10,000 miles on the odometer. This will be my third oil change and I've put conventional oil for my first two oil changes. Pensoil ( & a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer ) is what I used for years in all my past vehicles without any engine issues on any of them. They lasted for extended miles and ran great. Now to my question, what's the big push for full synthetic oil? Until I joined this forum I never really heard people so dedicated to putting full synthetic. Plus the manual says use conventional oil. I know synthetic doesn't break down, and lasts longer than conventional, is that the only benefit? That and saving money on longer intervals of oil changes? I have no issues with 3000 miles oil changes its what I've always done. Unless convinced otherwise on this thread, help?
 

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It doesn't really matter. Both are good.
 

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joe, oils have come a long way and both are good. i use synthetic as i change oil every 6500 to 7000 miles. coming from the days 3000 oci, i consider that an extended interval.
 

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I will be switching to synthetic on my next change. I only work 7minutes away from my house and the synthetic gives better protection for short trips as it doesn't have to warm up like conventional oil to give full protection. Also from what I have read, it offers better heat protection when doing things like towing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do I have to worry about switching? Any problems with my engine from going to conventional to synthetic?
 

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Do I have to worry about switching? Any problems with my engine from going to conventional to synthetic?
No worries at all, just do your synthetic oil change just like any other way you`ve done it in the past.
I use Penzoil Ultra 5w20 and a K&N oil filter HP1017 (i like the nut on it, filter comes off a lot easier)
Dont put ANY (lucas) additives in with the oil, it dosent need it. (theres some savings right there)
If you have a walmart store near you, you can buy the penzoil cheaper there than anywhere else. (7qts)
Drain Plug Torque: 25 ftlbs

EDIT: Penzoil Platinum 100% synthetic is just as good, the ULTRA is pretty pricey.
I run penzoil because thats what my owner`s manual recommends... for warranty purposes of course...lol
 

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Do I have to worry about switching? Any problems with my engine from going to conventional to synthetic?
No problems. It's kind of an archaic suggestion. If you had a high mileage engine, it could be an issue since the conventional oil could be keeping your leaks at bay. With low miles and no leaks, you won't have anything to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dont put ANY (lucas) additives in with the oil, it dosent need it. (theres some savings right there)
"DON'T". You seem to feel strongly about this, apart from saving money why not? I like lucas products.
 

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"DON'T". You seem to feel strongly about this, apart from saving money why not? I like lucas products.
For starters, changing the viscosity of your engine oil could have a negative effect on your MDS and VVT operation, which in turn, can set codes and turn on the MIL. I've torn into Hemi's that have over 100k on the clock and the cylinders look like new and they never had any additives in the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
For starters, changing the viscosity of your engine oil could have a negative effect on your MDS and VVT operation, which in turn, can set codes and turn on the MIL. I've torn into Hemi's that have over 100k on the clock and the cylinders look like new and they never had any additives in the oil.
Thanks, good info. I can dig it. Well, I just had full synthetic oil put in & changed from conventional. I must say its the quietest my HEMI's sounded as of yet, I'll skip out on the lucas oil stabilizer. The tech at the lube shop said see you in 6,000 miles, so kool, we'll see!
 

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For starters, changing the viscosity of your engine oil could have a negative effect on your MDS and VVT operation, which in turn, can set codes and turn on the MIL. I've torn into Hemi's that have over 100k on the clock and the cylinders look like new and they never had any additives in the oil.
why did you have to tear into them?
 

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Dealer said you can go from conventional to synthetic anytime, but once you go synthetic you can't go back to conventional.
 

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why did you have to tear into them?
Of the last two, one was overheated to the point that it dropped a valve seat and winged a piston. The other was the result of a spark plug that dropped its electrode into the cylinder and damaged a piston. In both cases, the cross hatches from the honing process were still visible in the cylinders.
 

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Of the last two, one was overheated to the point that it dropped a valve seat and winged a piston. The other was the result of a spark plug that dropped its electrode into the cylinder and damaged a piston. In both cases, the cross hatches from the honing process were still visible in the cylinders.
tks.....glad it wasnt oil related.
 
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