[Sean Simpson]

Hello, I have a 94 ram 1500 with a 360 and 4x4, my truck was running fine until a few days ago when I was driving and as soon as I got warmed up my truck started bucking and losing power until I eventually stalled. Waited a second and fired it back up and got it home. It runs perfect when cold but as soon as I start driving and it gets warmed up, it does that. I was thinking maybe bad fuel pump, or dirty fuel injectors? I just did a tune up less then 1000 miles ago and an oil change less then 500. I will say I do a lot of running in the truck on less then a half tank because I can’t keep gas in it with how fast I go through it at these prices. Any help would be appreciated! Also have no engine light on, and my code reader doesn’t work for some reason.

 

[ramoffroader]

Check your coil. Look at the bottom of the coil and see if the plastic is cracked open. The laminated metal strips would rust over time and split the coil open on the bottom allowing moisture to get inside and mess things up. This problem will not set a active engine code. hope this helps.

 

[Moparite]

I would see if you can get a scanner that reads live data, Then you can see what temp the pcm is seeing. If it's the wrong temp the pcm will give the motor more or less fuel causing issues.

 

[Sean Simpson]

Check your coil. Look at the bottom of the coil and see if the plastic is cracked open. The laminated metal strips would rust over time and split the coil open on the bottom allowing moisture to get inside and mess things up. This problem will not set a active engine code. hope this helps.

I checked the coil, unplugged it and it wouldn’t start and plugged it back in and it would. My exhaust is broke in front of the cat on the engine side. It only stalls and won’t fire when it’s warmed up, I’ve broke down on the side of the road a couple times and had to wait for the engine to completely cool off to fire it up and drive it home. Map sensor maybe? I’m going to try to fix the exhaust and run injector cleaner with a tank of gas and see if that works first.

 

[Moparite]

I checked the coil, unplugged it and it wouldn’t start and plugged it back in and it would.

That's not how you check the coil. You get the resistance between the terminals and see if the reading is within spec(it's in the service manual) don't remember what it is off hand. You have a sensor that is experiencing heat soak, I would guess to say it's the crank sensor.

Also have no engine light on

Does the check engine light come on when you first turn on the ignition? If no the bulb is probably blown(replace it) then you can do the key dance to get codes.
The 1980s-1990s Chrysler Computer Codes

 

[Sean Simpson]

That's not how you check the coil. You get the resistance between the terminals and see if the reading is within spec(it's in the service manual) don't remember what it is off hand. You have a sensor that is experiencing heat soak, I would guess to say it's the crank sensor.

Does the check engine light come on when you first turn on the ignition? If no the bulb is probably blown(replace it) then you can do the key dance to get codes.
The 1980s-1990s Chrysler Computer Codes

Did the key dance and got 4 codes, 11- crankshaft position sensor, 32- EGR solenoid circuit, 37- torque converter clutch solenoid or tranny temp too high, 54- no cam signal at pcm

 

[Moparite]

You are getting codes for both crank and cam sensors, Replace them with either OEM(mopar) or Delphi brand sensors. Don't gamble with cheap sensors that will fail in no time and you will have to replace them again. The other two can be addressed after you get it running.

 

[Sean Simpson]

You are getting codes for both crank and cam sensors, Replace them with either OEM(mopar) or Delphi brand sensors. Don't gamble with cheap sensors that will fail in no time and you will have to replace them again. The other two can be addressed after you get it running.

Thank you very much for the information sir!