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Discussion Starter #1
every time i go in reverse (backing into my driveway per say) and i'm turning i hear a clunking sound in the rear end of the truck and can feel it through the floor of the truck, only happens when turning in reverse. also a slight ticking in the front end as well, i have greased all that i could to no avail. if you need more info about the model of my truck just let me know, i don't have money to just guess what it is at this point, help me out community so i can stop looking like this :doh: thanks :smileup:
 

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The clunk in reverse and vibration in floor sounds like u joints going bad, have you checked drive shaft by grabing it and trying to twist it?
 

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Also check transmission mount bushings
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i haven't done those but i will check first thing tomorrow thanks, i forgot to mention the clunking in the rear end in reverse only happens if i have about 400lbs of weight in the bed of the truck, i still get into gear clunking but usually when it's cold out, so that's been answered thanks again :smiley_thumbs_up: but now why is 400lbs making my truck clink and clunk when i turn in reverse?
 

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Slight difference in drive shaft angel might be bringing it out.
 

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As far as the front end goes, you'll need to check out the axle joints, take a big screwdriver or something and pry up, down and back and forth on the u joints at the pivot point where your wheels turn and the joint is exposed, I'd say from your post, that you're due to change at least one of them.(check both sides) the joint is about $15 ea, but it's a bit involved to change em. wheel off, caliper off, a 1&11/16 socket is req'd to wind off the spindle nut (thin the socket wall with a grinder, it's a tight squeeze) hub bearing off, dust shield too, if i remember. The bearing hub can be a SOB to get off, but it will come off, if you keep screwing with it. cut the old joints with a torch, smuck the cups out, (inward) if you don't remove the clips from the cups. install is reverse, make sure the ujoint swings easy when installed, before inserting back into housing, smuck yokes back and forth a few times with a soft hammer if it doesn't want to swing freely. if you don't ensure this, the joints will be shot again by spring. As far as the rear goes, I agree with ramfan, plus check the rear driveshaft ujoints with the screwdriver, too. in neutral, with a wheel chocked/blocked. Hint, when my axle joints went bad, the rear joint(the fancy one) on my front driveshaft was getting sloppy, too. One more thing, if the axle joints are sloppy, and you plan to use 4wd that way, you're looking at changing the entire shafts, cuz in a turn, theres a good chance of them binding, breaking, and destroying the yokes, THEN, you're looking at money...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i'm thinking about just replacing the ball joints and ujoints at this point now that i know it could be any of those issues. considering those parts are affordable that is, and also i only bought the truck a few months back from some guy who had it since 06 and only put 10k miles on it since i purchased it, total is about 175,200 miles and most likely less but with minimal rust (you would think it has 90k on it), since when i do 35mph the correct mph is 26, can i just flash the system or do i have to calibrate it for the difference? (i know, i keep coming up with more issues haha) so far thanks for you help guys! it's giving me some insight and a learning experience.
 

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I think to set the speedo up, you have to connect to a laptop, and the expensive code reader programs, I have a bud that can do it, he swears it cost him thousands to set it all up, plus an annual fee to upgrade every year, In other words, I'd go to a private shop who has all the diagnostic equipment and pay the money. Unless you can find a high school with auto shop and get the students to do it for free...
 

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Make sure there's no tension on the drive shaft when you check it otherwise you can try to check it all day and it'll feel tight. Flat spot in neutral works.

Speedo issue: Check the tire size.

Here's an example...take 2 pencils and glue a dime on the eraser of one, and a quarter on the other. Spin each pencil one turn. Same amount of turn on the axle...big difference on the distance of travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
hey guys sorry it's been so long, but passenger upper ball joint is bad and my rear shocks are just about shot, found that out at my friends shop. here are the parts i'm ordering, MONROE Shocks Part # 34781 Gas-Magnum 4WD; w/ 8,800 lb. GVW; Rear (2), MOOG Ball Joints Part # K3134T {#K7208T}4WD; w/3500 lb. Axle; Front Upper 4WD; w/3850 lb. Axle; Front Upper (2), MOOG Ball Joints Part # K8195T
4WD; w/3500 lb. Axle; Front Lower (2). only thing thats gonna be upsetting is the shop estimated a whopping $500 for labor, i trust them as the only other people to touch my truck other then me, but just so i know, whats involved in replacing this stuff? and also am i ordering the right shocks for the rear? i can provide a picture of my truck if need be
 
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