As far as the front end goes, you'll need to check out the axle joints, take a big screwdriver or something and pry up, down and back and forth on the u joints at the pivot point where your wheels turn and the joint is exposed, I'd say from your post, that you're due to change at least one of them.(check both sides) the joint is about $15 ea, but it's a bit involved to change em. wheel off, caliper off, a 1&11/16 socket is req'd to wind off the spindle nut (thin the socket wall with a grinder, it's a tight squeeze) hub bearing off, dust shield too, if i remember. The bearing hub can be a SOB to get off, but it will come off, if you keep screwing with it. cut the old joints with a torch, smuck the cups out, (inward) if you don't remove the clips from the cups. install is reverse, make sure the ujoint swings easy when installed, before inserting back into housing, smuck yokes back and forth a few times with a soft hammer if it doesn't want to swing freely. if you don't ensure this, the joints will be shot again by spring. As far as the rear goes, I agree with ramfan, plus check the rear driveshaft ujoints with the screwdriver, too. in neutral, with a wheel chocked/blocked. Hint, when my axle joints went bad, the rear joint(the fancy one) on my front driveshaft was getting sloppy, too. One more thing, if the axle joints are sloppy, and you plan to use 4wd that way, you're looking at changing the entire shafts, cuz in a turn, theres a good chance of them binding, breaking, and destroying the yokes, THEN, you're looking at money...
