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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got the 2019 Laramie with the Alpine system. It's sounds ok, but I want deeper bass and higher highs. The factory EQ doesn't let you tweak it too much. Are there any additions to the sub or replacing with a better one? Maybe adding an additional 8" or 10" subs with better amp?
 

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Someone mentioned that the sub is behind the rear seat (passenger side). You may want to take a look and see how much room there is first, although if it's tight, you can always put it under the rear seat. Plenty of room there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea, I know it’s hidden back there. I could possibly put another box with some subs in but I just wanted to see if someone had done it yet. Like I said it sounds ok, but I am an audiophile junkie and when I like to turn it up I just can’t with this one.

Someone mentioned that the sub is behind the rear seat (passenger side). You may want to take a look and see how much room there is first, although if it's tight, you can always put it under the rear seat. Plenty of room there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I also am considering upgrading the sub. Let me know what you end up doing.
Called Crutchfield, and they stated I can just add an equalizer, amp, and replace all speakers ($670.00) and I should get better sound and deeper bass with the speakers they selected. They did not mention replacing the sub, but I was thinking of building a custom box and adding 2 additional 10" subs if this did not satisfy my craving.

Tech said I did not need any type of data link between stock radio and factory amp to hook up the upgrades and that all my stock controls will work. Going to try this route soon as some of these speakers get back in stock.
 

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Keep us updated on what you end up doing. I'm curious if the Pioneer shallow mount 8" subwoofer will still fit in the new enclosure. If it does, I'll swap one of those in first see what happens, then move to a Monoblock amp to power it if need be. The component speakers are fine for me.
 

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I'll be looking to upgrade my Alpine system as well. I need to pull the backseat and see how much room there is. Probably going to make my own box for under the seat for either a single 12" or 2 10" subs. I feel like my highs aren't crisp enough either so will probably end up replacing everything before it's all said and done.
 

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How did they suggest you interface your equipment with the car system? Will you be grabbing the speaker level signals and converting them to line level (did Crutchfield mention you'll need resisters on the speaker wires before you convert to line level or your audio will continuously cut out...?). That will work, but, as I understand it, you might have some issues. The factory amp is calibrated and set for the speakers in the vehicle. Levels are adjusted, crossover points are set by your factory amp for the factory speakers. New speakers/amps can have mixed results. Even the Engine Noise Suppression is part of that system. I'm curious how you are putting it all together (equipment, etc). If you get cabin noise from your new speakers generating too much noise for the noise cancellation, you can prob cut the speaker wires. I've read of that being done successfully in other vehicles with this feature. Ideally, a system like the PAC Amp Pro or the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 is what you'd want to use. Neither support the 2019s yet (the DSR1 claims to, but too many are having issues with it to say that it does). I'm anxiously waiting for one of these to break through. My truck is already wired with new speaker wire, amp wire... just waiting for them now.

I've also been trying everything I can to figure a way to get a decent sub behind the seats. I have the quad cab, and there is very little room back there. The shallowest sub with decent sound would be the pricey JL Audio 13". It has an even smaller depth than the Pioneer 10" shallow. But man, even with a 2.5 depth, it's not going to be easy. I don't think a box will cut it. I'll prob have to go fiberglass or hope that a 3rd party soon makes something. I may have to look at bringing to in front of the seats, which I'd rather not do. My temp solution is a downward facing 10" pioneer on the floor in the back.


Again, I'd like to know how you are approaching it! I def like to find easier ways to do things :) I'm throwing Hybrid Audio's in mine with a couple pioneer amps.


Here is more info on how the amp replacement systems work (when they get them working for us):


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Vcva0lW_6A
 

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I'll be looking to upgrade my Alpine system as well. I need to pull the backseat and see how much room there is. Probably going to make my own box for under the seat for either a single 12" or 2 10" subs. I feel like my highs aren't crisp enough either so will probably end up replacing everything before it's all said and done.
The easy 5-minute solution for better highs is to swap out the 3.5s in the dash. just pull the speaker grille, and swap the speakers with a higher quality component. It's a pretty safe bet that the metra adaptors that worked with the 4th gens will work on 5th gen, but you may want to double check.
 

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I'll be looking to upgrade my Alpine system as well. I need to pull the backseat and see how much room there is. Probably going to make my own box for under the seat for either a single 12" or 2 10" subs. I feel like my highs aren't crisp enough either so will probably end up replacing everything before it's all said and done.
The easy 5-minute solution for better highs is to swap out the 3.5s in the dash. just pull the speaker grille, and swap the speakers with a higher quality component. It's a pretty safe bet that the metra adaptors that worked with the 4th gens will work on 5th gen, but you may want to double check.
That's the plan. Swapped them out on my 2013 with some Kickers and they sounded so much better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How did they suggest you interface your equipment with the car system? Will you be grabbing the speaker level signals and converting them to line level (did Crutchfield mention you'll need resisters on the speaker wires before you convert to line level or your audio will continuously cut out...?). That will work, but, as I understand it, you might have some issues. The factory amp is calibrated and set for the speakers in the vehicle. Levels are adjusted, crossover points are set by your factory amp for the factory speakers. New speakers/amps can have mixed results. Even the Engine Noise Suppression is part of that system. I'm curious how you are putting it all together (equipment, etc). If you get cabin noise from your new speakers generating too much noise for the noise cancellation, you can prob cut the speaker wires. I've read of that being done successfully in other vehicles with this feature. Ideally, a system like the PAC Amp Pro or the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 is what you'd want to use. Neither support the 2019s yet (the DSR1 claims to, but too many are having issues with it to say that it does). I'm anxiously waiting for one of these to break through. My truck is already wired with new speaker wire, amp wire... just waiting for them now.

I've also been trying everything I can to figure a way to get a decent sub behind the seats. I have the quad cab, and there is very little room back there. The shallowest sub with decent sound would be the pricey JL Audio 13". It has an even smaller depth than the Pioneer 10" shallow. But man, even with a 2.5 depth, it's not going to be easy. I don't think a box will cut it. I'll prob have to go fiberglass or hope that a 3rd party soon makes something. I may have to look at bringing to in front of the seats, which I'd rather not do. My temp solution is a downward facing 10" pioneer on the floor in the back.


Again, I'd like to know how you are approaching it! I def like to find easier ways to do things :) I'm throwing Hybrid Audio's in mine with a couple pioneer amps.


Here is more info on how the amp replacement systems work (when they get them working for us):


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Vcva0lW_6A
So, Crutchfield said I wouldn't need the data interface like the DSR1. I thought I would, and I still think I do. Once I had everything I was supposed to call and they would assist in the install, with new amp and equalizer. The new amp was only to power the door speakers. Don't know for sure if the guy that was helping me really knew what he was talking about.

For now, I just replaced the door speakers and the dash. The biggest noticeable difference is the highs in the dash. Also since installing new 4ohm speakers, the volume level dropped drastically. Sounds really good turned all the way up, but has to be at 15 to just hear it.

Before I go with installing more subs and full-out upgrade, I'm replacing the stock sub with a Kicker 8" shallow mount. Seen others do it with the pioneer sub, so I hope this is no different.

Still searching for some way to get a equalizer installed so I can tune to the way I want.
 

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So, Crutchfield said I wouldn't need the data interface like the DSR1. I thought I would, and I still think I do. Once I had everything I was supposed to call and they would assist in the install, with new amp and equalizer. The new amp was only to power the door speakers. Don't know for sure if the guy that was helping me really knew what he was talking about.

For now, I just replaced the door speakers and the dash. The biggest noticeable difference is the highs in the dash. Also since installing new 4ohm speakers, the volume level dropped drastically. Sounds really good turned all the way up, but has to be at 15 to just hear it.

Before I go with installing more subs and full-out upgrade, I'm replacing the stock sub with a Kicker 8" shallow mount. Seen others do it with the pioneer sub, so I hope this is no different.

Still searching for some way to get a equalizer installed so I can tune to the way I want.
If you don't mind, try to do a write up on the subwoofer replacement. I know myself, and probably some other would appreciate it. I've been looking around myself but can't seem to figure out any good way of pulling the old sub and enclosure out without pulling the back seat. Also is it a 2 or 4 Ohm sub?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'll try to take some pics and as much info as possible. This is the speaker I'm looking at getting. It is a 1ohm sub. Don't know what I should go with. The Pioneer that everyone puts in is a 2ohm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, I attempted to install the new sub. Ram -1, Me - 0. So, the sub is not under the passenger seat, but right behind the back of the seat and the shallow mount I bought was not shallow enough. The factory is only 1-1/2" deep (Kicker Sub was 2-5/8"). You do have to take out the back seat which was not easy. Looks like I will have to get a line out converter after all and just add new more amps and more subs. Not in my budget right now, so I will see what kind of deals are out there. Plus I do not feel comfortable installing line out converter. I could install systems in aftermarket radios, but not these factory ones.
 

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I finally got my upgrade done. Holy crap was a nightmare figuring the ins and outs of this truck. Sure sounds great though. I had the base 6 speaker system, so no sub to begin with. Installed a DSR1, 2 amps, new speaker wire, and 8 speakers and a sub. Sub is a temporary solution now until somebody comes out with a custom solution. I'd like to go behind the rear seats but nothing I could find would fit. I tried a Pioneer 10" shallow mount (which is currently in the Pioneer face down box sitting on the floor). One day there will be a solution.


If all you are doing is adding a sub/replacing the existing sub, you've got a few issues. You can pull out the existing sub, use that line to feed a new sub (is that what you are doing?). If that is the case, you need a powered sub or an amp and a sub (and you'll have to run a 12 volt power line to it). Best is to get one that accepts speaker level inputs. If not, yeah, you need a line converted which really isn't hard to install generally. The problem, though, with a small powered sub that is made to go in small places... I don't know that they'll be any better than what came in the truck. I've never been too happy with those small devices (which is why I put in a shallow mount 10' connected to my amp). I wouldn't consider one of those tiny powered devices unless there were no other options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I was looking into the DSR1 as well. If I was going that route though I'd be most likely getting a custom box built and adding either 3 or 4 of the shallow 8" subs
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I finally got my upgrade done. Holy crap was a nightmare figuring the ins and outs of this truck. Sure sounds great though. I had the base 6 speaker system, so no sub to begin with. Installed a DSR1, 2 amps, new speaker wire, and 8 speakers and a sub. Sub is a temporary solution now until somebody comes out with a custom solution. I'd like to go behind the rear seats but nothing I could find would fit. I tried a Pioneer 10" shallow mount (which is currently in the Pioneer face down box sitting on the floor). One day there will be a solution.


If all you are doing is adding a sub/replacing the existing sub, you've got a few issues. You can pull out the existing sub, use that line to feed a new sub (is that what you are doing?). If that is the case, you need a powered sub or an amp and a sub (and you'll have to run a 12 volt power line to it). Best is to get one that accepts speaker level inputs. If not, yeah, you need a line converted which really isn't hard to install generally. The problem, though, with a small powered sub that is made to go in small places... I don't know that they'll be any better than what came in the truck. I've never been too happy with those small devices (which is why I put in a shallow mount 10' connected to my amp). I wouldn't consider one of those tiny powered devices unless there were no other options.
If no premium sound system then why the DSR1? Couldn't you have just used a line out converter to do what you wanted? Which T-harness did you use or did you even have to use since no factory amp?
 

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Was there room to make an mdf trim ring to increase the mounting depth of the stock box, screw, the trim ring into the enclosure then the sub on to that? Or do you think there would be clearance issues with the back seat. 1.5 inches is super shallow
 

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If no premium sound system then why the DSR1? Couldn't you have just used a line out converter to do what you wanted? Which T-harness did you use or did you even have to use since no factory amp?

Got the DSR1 for the crossover, timing, equalizer, and levels on 8 different channels. But yeah, had I not wanted those things, I could have got line level converters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Was there room to make an mdf trim ring to increase the mounting depth of the stock box, screw, the trim ring into the enclosure then the sub on to that? Or do you think there would be clearance issues with the back seat. 1.5 inches is super shallow
Yes there is enough room. But, I wasn’t prepared for it and I needed my seat back the next day. Plus none of my adapters worked with what was plugged into sub. Putting the trim might bulge out the carpet cover but no one would see it.
 
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