Well I got a new amp and it solved some of the problems I was having, but the amp doesn't cutoff like it should. It will go off but come back on with the ignition off. And it can be off and when I open the door, the power comes on. Please tell me what to do. I have drilled a whole in the floorboard and grinded the paint off to connect the ground wire. I'm desperate for help!
Amp comes on when I open/close doors?? Ignition off - HELP
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Remove remote at amp and try it, I bet you the source is that. There is no other way for your amp to get any power other than there. It is the switch - , you have constant + from battery and cant complete the circuit and have power at amp unless the -(remote) wire is activated
If you remove remote at amp and that solves problem, pull head unit and tap directly into remote amp wire if you can. Honestly imo, your best bet and to stop any more headaches, buy a aftermarket head unit, install it, and dont use no adapters to tie into stock wiring, tell installer to go to a switched source for power, cigerette lighter etc, thats how mine is and im totally off any oem wiring as far as stock radio wiring goes. Also I ran all new speaker wires etc
I unhooked the remote and the amp is not turning on now at all which it shouldn't, how does that confirm there is something wrong with the remote wire? Even if everything worked correctly, the amp wouldn't come on without the remote wire...pardon my ignorance, I'm just lost and it's been a long day.
I've never spliced into a wire like that. How do you do it and what all did you have to pull apart to get to it?
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611 Posts
Forgive the obvious but you connected your remote turn on from the amp to the blue wire off the AMP-RCA cable right? It really sounds like you've tapped into the illumination circuit. (orange wire) If its correct I'd call Pac. Their customer support was excellent when I called them.
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120 Posts
You may have to pull the panel below the steering wheel off. I don't remember if I had to take that off or not. The wires are right there, all you have to do is lay on your back on the driver floorboard. I cut the wire and soldered my remote into it, but I'm sure you could use a T-tap or crimp fittings... I always solder bc it gives you the best connection and don't have to worry about it failing.
I definitely think something is screwy with the PAC but I determined this morning that when I listen to satellite radio, the clicking from the 1 speaker goes away but comes back when I play the radio. Could that be a PAC issue or the shielding on 1 of the RCA cables that's near the HU?
I wish I had the money to do that right now but I don't so I'm going to send back the harness and get a new one. If that doesn't fix the problems then I'm pulling everything out and hopefully shipping back.
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206 Posts
You've tapped into the wrong wire for your remote wire connection, like others have said if you can't find the correct remote/acc wire at the harness, the driver's side cig lighter is the best one to use. If you have a center console in your truck it is located by the shifter to the right. To connect it there use a quick splice connector so that you don't have to cut the positive wire to make your connection.
For the noise that you are hearing from one of the speakers, check your connections that you made between the amp and the input wires. Might be a poor connection that's giving you noise, it you can't solder it twist the wiring tightly and use a crimped connector.
For the noise that you are hearing from one of the speakers, check your connections that you made between the amp and the input wires. Might be a poor connection that's giving you noise, it you can't solder it twist the wiring tightly and use a crimped connector.
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