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Agreed, snrusnak. Something else. Some filters use a leaf spring and others use a coil spring. If the coil spring is not supported well, then the filtering system inside the canister may offset. This may cause the filter to not do it's job correctly. My mechanic brother in law stocked only WIX. Bosch is good and so is Mobile 1. Stay away from the four letter "F" word! Yo MaMa may not get you for using that word, but some of us might. Lol
 

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GTyankee, I have never put forth the effort to truly investigate these claims, but I've heard (emphasis) the Fram oil filters use coil springs and the end caps do not provide the necessary long term integrity to properly support the coil springs, resulting in the problems we all wish to avoid, as you described.

My brother in law (who had his own shop until the economy said otherwise) carried only WIX brand oil filters. When I asked him why he carried only WIX, he basically said Mobile 1, Bosche, and a few other filters were good filters, but when it came to bulk orders to maintain his stock supply of efficient filters, WIX offered him the best deal for the class WIX fell under. I asked him "...why not Fram? They're pretty cheap." He informed me that he had no desire to go out of business because he was not going to allow a (in his opinion) a faulty product to ruin his reputation of good work.

My wife's car is a 2012 Hyundai Elantra (It really does get 40-46 mpg - according to the calculator and gas pump). I've read numerous blogs by Elantra owners complaining of almost immediate engine problems and the source was an oil filter (...something to do with the flow). What it came down to for the Elantra owners answer was Mobile 1, Bosche, WIX, or the factory filter. The factory filter is built like a freaking tank. They provide a link to a video to explain why they use a leaf spring and why their filters should be used. I bought a factory filter from the dealership for $6.

Excoastie, I believe GTyankee pretty much sums it up. I'm not denying that you may be having problems with your vehicle, but I just can't imagine Bosche as being the source.

As for myself, when my service plan runs out, I'm going to use Mobile 1 or WIX. The salesman straight out begged me to purchase a service plan because he gets points for selling it. I bought my truck $13,000 less and he got points for the sale of a truck and a service plan. It does drive my bonkers that I don't change my own oil.
 

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That's exactly what I was thinking, it would magnetize the entire filter (anything that is metal anyway...
We're on the same sheet of music, which for you is not a good thing, cuz I'm an idiot :LOL:
I have often seen magnetic tips on the oil pan drain plug, for obvious reasons.

I've never heard of this thing and I've never heard of anything related to this concept.

Does anyone have any factual documentation on this matter? Video? Links?
 

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:4-looney:OKAY!!!!! This subject is driving me nuts. I do not know which direction the oil enters the filter and which direction it exits the filter. With that said, please everyone, bare with me and my ignorance. (And before you smart @$$es pipe-in, I know it goes in through the top and exits through the top. :LOL:)

1) If the dirty oil enters the filter canister through the outer ports, running along the outer side wall, wouldn't the metal particles stick to the side walls and build up. Possibly build up too much in one area too close to one point near the actual filter portion?:4-dontknow:

2) If the oil enters the oil filter canister through the center and filters outward, through the filter screen, to the outer side walls, and back up through the outer port holes, then would the pull of a magnet possibly ruin the integrity of the oil filter by pulling the metal particles through the filter?:4-dontknow:

3) If someone feels compelled to attach a magnet to their oil filter to catch metal particles, does that mean he/she has a serious metal shaving issue:doh: or does it mean he/she is just as obsessed :thk:as the Ram fanatics that replaces their factory parts or installs additional parts such as:
-factory lights with LED's because the factory's are not good enough?
-factory exhaust because they're not cool, loud, deep, or throaty enough?
-splash guards because the fender wells don't protect enough and it looks cool?
-CAI because drop-ins or factory is not good enough?
-...and so on and so on....

4) Am I thinking too much in to this since I plan on doing all those things mentioned above minus the filter mag (no offense to the filter mag users out there)?
 

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the oil typically does come in from the outer ports and flow back into the motor from the center, but as for how the magnet affects this I have no experience.


edit: maybe this link helps?? http://www.synlube.com/oilfilters.htm
WOW!!! After reading this link, I feel like a freak'n rocket scientist [I may not be a rocket scientist, but I play one on T.V.]

I am very impressed with the write-up. It's a company pushing it's product, yet it's stating facts and NOT touting how their product is superior to all other, but merely stating how their product can perform the task.

QUICK SUMMARY:
-Okay, the filter mag is cool.
-Long lasting oil is cool, but make sure you have an oil filter that can handle it.
-Long lasting oil filters may not be the way to go, but just rotate through good filters and replace the lost oil with fresh oil.
-Oil filters that grab more particles are also more restrictive.
-Oil filters that flow better catch less particles.
-Oil filters that are more restrictive may cause the bypass valves to open during cold start-ups and allow dirty oil to circulate through the engine (dirty oil is better than no oil).
-For us everyday, normal drivers, OEM filters are fine. (It still makes me feel better to one-up it on the manufacturer's recommendation).
-Most importantly, I just realized I didn't know JACK SH+T :4-dontknow:

:thk:I think I'm going to have to research the different options of oil filter magnets. :smileup:I like how the link includes a photo of metal particles stuck to the oil filter mag!
 
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