Ill let you in on a little secret though. Everyone says run one off of the engine to the battery ground.... that one is just about pointless. The engine is not part of the charging system and therefore while the engine to ground does yield little gains, its almost not worth the effort.
Run alt to battery, battery to stock ground and alt case to battery ground. Its amazing the difference people have seen stable voltage wise over on the audio forums from that. Plus Matt from Mechman Alternators recommends doing it this way as well and I would assume one of the head honchos in one of the largest and most well thought of H/O alt companies would know what he is talking about. Ill get pics in a few hours of my wiring once the sun comes up
This is done a lot easier with 2/0 ring terminals as well. Just fill em with melted solder and go. You can use 1/0 terminals but its usually harder to get the wire into them cleanly, and when you have a terminal that is scolding hot filled with molten solder you dont really have much room for error
You can just do the block to frame rather than the alt case to battery as the alt grounds through the engine to the frame. In the case of the 3rd gens, this a lot more cost effective and had the same gains.
any more or different input for a 2nd gen 2001 ram sport? I have subs that make my headlights dim already. And im getting LEDs and projector headlights, so i think the big three might be a great idea. haha thanks.
No, your factory wiring is sufficient to supply the power to the fuse block and any accessories attached to it. Any major draw accessories should be connected with relays, separate circuits, or an auxiliary fuse block.
Thanks! Waiting on some heat shrink from parts express then i can start the big 3 upgrade. And the better solder, I am having no luck with 'electric solder' from home depot. Not melting what so ever unless i put it right on the soldering iron.
If you're going to solder, then I'd pick up solder slugs from somewhere like Acklands. Depending on the cable gauge you're using you'll actually need to put the connector into a vice and heat the connector with a pencil torch to get it hot enough to melt the solder then insert the cable into it and then it'll wick into the cable. I personally just ordered a 10ton hydraulic crimper off Amazon and it worked like a charm, and a crimped connection is a better mechanical connection compared to a solder connection which is better for high vibration areas, like a vehicle.
Are you using a soldering iron or a soldering gun? An iron will rarely make enough heat with a larger gauge cable to get the solder to wick into the parts and you'll only have a cold solder joint which is weak, brittle, and poorly conducts electricity.
I did buy a torch but i did crimp one connection and put solder on the top side to try and have 'best of both worlds' but not sure how effective it is. The solder i have i am not a fan of and waiting from some of the Cardas Quad-Eutectic solder i bought to get here.
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