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Discussion Starter #1
My truck started blowing white smoke a few weeks ago. I'm a poor mechanic at best and was immediately concerned that the Hughes Plenum fix or headers I installed caused the problem.

As it turns out, it was not my work but blown head gaskets.

I have the heads removed and am taking them to the machine shop for a valve job.

Over the next few weeks I'll be posting pics of the rebuild.

-Filth
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's a few pics of the work so Far. Does anyone have any advice on cleaning the block and the pistons?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I dropped the heads off at Gunn Automotive in Denver this morning. I spoke with the owner (Phil Gunn) and his employee Keath. They were both very friendly and professional. Which, after talking to other machine shops in the front range, was a breath of fresh air.

They are going to clean and inspect, resurface, and replace any worn out guides. As well as replace the guide seals. The heads should be ready to be picked up in 4 or 5 days.
 

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DO NOT use any sort of abrasive on the block surface. It's not needed, and any abrasive, bristle discs, scotch brie, anything, will get into the oiling system and take out bearings. Every maker has a TSB on it, and I learned it the hard way. The best thing is a carbide scraper. I have one that's 3 inches wide, and it's about 1/8'' thick. I then use a razor blade around the dowel pins, or better yet, pull them out. I don't know where to tell you to get the scraper, though, mine came from Goodson Supply and they are an engine overhaul wholesaler. A razor blade will work, it just tedious. You're pistons aren't that bad, but if you want to clean them, the best stuff is Motorvac solution. you just pour it in to cover them overnight, and they will wipe clean. It also seeps down and cleans the rings. If you can't find any, carb soak is the next best. Make sure to chase the head bolts threads with a tap, then shoot some brake clean into them, hold a rag over the top, and blow them out with air. I believe those are dry holes, so a little oil on the threads and under the bolt heads, and you're ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not having the heads ported and polished. I had to draw the line somewhere.

The Truck has 131k on it and I'm going to try to make it last another 131k.

I did spring for a Hughes FI intake. Hughes was out of modified throttle bodies, I plan check back with them every now and then and slap that on when there's one available.

I'll be working on the Truck this weekend, so I should have some new pics to post soon.
 

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I'm not having the heads ported and polished. I had to draw the line somewhere.

The Truck has 131k on it and I'm going to try to make it last another 131k.

I did spring for a Hughes FI intake. Hughes was out of modified throttle bodies, I plan check back with them every now and then and slap that on when there's one available.

I'll be working on the Truck this weekend, so I should have some new pics to post soon.
Port and polish isn't that hard to do yourself. All you need is a good die grinder or even a dremel will probably work. I've done it on my drag car heads and could definitely notice a difference. The trick is, don't polish the intake ports but give them a straighter shot to the valves. Too polished and the fuel will gather on the walls and not stay in suspension. Get the exhaust as polished and straight of shot out to the headers/manifolds as possible.
 

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I was scared the first time I ported heads but if you never try it you will always be afraid to. I'm sure you can find specific areas to focus on for the exact heads you have and you will be glad you did. I didn't go in blind and just start grinding. I did research and used other people's proven methods.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the port and polish advice, but the heads are back on the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here's the Block before and after I cleaned it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is a nice sequence of the Heads, valve covers, and Hughes intake all getting torqued back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My Garage

Yes. I have to turn in the side views to get the truck in.
 

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Must be a tolerant HOA where you live. When I had my condo if I changed a sparkplug on one of my bikes I got a warning letter. Didn't stop my next stall neighbor who was a friend of the board from completely taking apart a BMW 320i in his space. Bastards!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yesterday I finish the project. The alternator, ac compressor, and Exhaust headers were the last items to bolt back on. Admittedly, was a little nervous when i turned the key. But it started right up and idled smoothly.

Then I noticed the dreaded "NO BUSS" flashing on the odometer. I'm hesitant to drive the truck until I research/troubleshoot this further. I borrowed a scan tool, and I'll post what codes come up later today.

Can anyone offer guidance on troubleshooting this issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Hoa

Must be a tolerant HOA where you live. When I had my condo if I changed a sparkplug on one of my bikes I got a warning letter. Didn't stop my next stall neighbor who was a friend of the board from completely taking apart a BMW 320i in his space. Bastards!
You guessed right. I'm on the board.

But that's also why I parked facing in. So people wouldn't see when antifreez spilled out from the heads as they were removed, or any of the dozen other spills.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
no bus

I hooked the scanner up this evening. No codes were stored. I guess that shouldn't be a surprise, sine the computers memory was probably cleared during the two weeks the battery was disconnected.

I double checked the immediate ground for the ECU. I also wiggled the three connectors on it. I still have no instruments and "no bus" is displayed on my odometer.

Can anyone share some knowledge on troubleshooting this issue?

To summarize:
When the key is turned to on the odometer flashes four times then displays "no bus". The truck starts and runs well. I have not taken it out of the neighborhood, only let it idle and moved it out of the garage.
 
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