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Depends on if you level or lift it. With no level or lift you can run a 34 inch tall tire. With spacers and a level you can run 35x12.5 tires. With a six inch lift and spacers you can run a full 37 inch
 

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I just had a set of BFG KO2s in 285/65/20 installed on my 2016 Bighorn - no lift (2" drop springs in the rear to improve stance, but irrelevant for this discussion) - and they aren't all that close to rubbing anywhere. I would guess that a 295/65/20 would also fit, if such a beast exists.

Tires are like shoes though, a given size can vary from one manufacturer to the next so the same size tire in a different product line may or may not fit.

I buy all my tires at Discount Tire. When I'm playing with tire sizes they're good about test fitting one before you get locked in. I've had them do this for me several times on different vehicles. In this case they mounted and test fitted one on the front, checking for steering function. No worries about rubbing, even at full lock and under suspension compression.

I am told that these are roughly equivalent to a 34.5" tire but I'm not sure.
 

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I think it also depends which 20 inch rim you have? The Chrome Clads are 9 inches wide, the others are 8.5. With an 8.5 inch wheel you can may be run 295/60/20, that translates to 33.9X11.6. Remember too, the stock wheels have somewhere around +18/+19 mm offset, which brings the wheel in more.
295/65R20 = 35.1x11.6x20

The 20 inch chrome clads run really close to the upper control arm, the 8.5 rim not so bad. You can try by sticking your finger in between the A-arm and the tire see how much space you have.

FYI, 285/65/20 =34.6x11.2x20
285/60/20 = 33.5x11.2x20

*the sizes can vary by manufacturer.
 

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I think it also depends which 20 inch rim you have? The Chrome Clads are 9 inches wide, the others are 8.5.
Good point - I mounted the 285s on the factory chrome clad wheels. The gap between the tire and the upper control arm is about the same as it was with the narrower stock tires. The BFGs are 10-ply and they have a much more square shoulder than the stock SRAs. Both means that they "squat" less than the SRAs did and I think this how and why the sidewall on the wider tire isn't any closer to the UCA.

I don't know for sure, but they do fit without any rubbing anywhere.
 

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From what I have read in the past 285's on stock 20X9's is really the way to go. That size tire is a little pricey, and not too many options, however the result is very worth it.

Not to forget, those will last you a while.

Terry, do you happen to have a pic with the 285's, very interested.
 

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let me figure out how to post a pic and i'll follow up.
I don't have any other angles - or pics of the truck when it's actually clean - with the new tires yet, but you get the gist. Reminder that I levelled the truck by installing 2" drop springs in the rear rather than spacering up the front. My reasoning is that I like the full-wheel-well look; the drop springs won't affect warranty the way that front end work might; these don't require a front end alignment; this is reversible in 20 minutes; the cost was less; and mileage shouldn't be affected the way that raising the front end might (not that this is a good reason by itself).

BFGs.jpg
 

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I don't have any other angles - or pics of the truck when it's actually clean - with the new tires yet, but you get the gist. Reminder that I levelled the truck by installing 2" drop springs in the rear rather than spacering up the front. My reasoning is that I like the full-wheel-well look; the drop springs won't affect warranty the way that front end work might; these don't require a front end alignment; this is reversible in 20 minutes; the cost was less; and mileage shouldn't be affected the way that raising the front end might (not that this is a good reason by itself).

View attachment 67640
Very nice man, you know I have never seen one with the rear dropped, that looks really good :smileup:

I also noticed no badges...very clean look.
 

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I ran 35x12.50x20 Firestone Destination M/T, with no spacer, and Bils set at 2.8. I had no rub but opted to put on the hubcentric/wheelcentric 10mm spacers I ordered simply to have a bit more fill out in the factory fender flares.
 

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I went with the 285-65-20 BFG KO2's, truck has air ride with 2" lift, same as level kit. No rubbing at all, since i added fender flares i am thinking of going with wheel spacers either 1", 1.25" or 1.5" to push them out even with flares but can't pull trigger to get them yet, i have heard a lot of horror stories with guys using them and failing.
 

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I went with the 285-65-20 BFG KO2's, truck has air ride with 2" lift, same as level kit. No rubbing at all, since i added fender flares i am thinking of going with wheel spacers either 1", 1.25" or 1.5" to push them out even with flares but can't pull trigger to get them yet, i have heard a lot of horror stories with guys using them and failing.

I should have read this post first :LOL:

I have a pearl white 1500 also. Where'd you get the sport fender from?
 

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Hope this helps someone in the future. I read a lot of things and thought for sure I could fit the new tire and wheel combo with no level or lift. Well come to find out not the case at full lock bad rubbing. So I did a leveling kit thought great this is money. Still a little rub nothing major going to have to trim some plastic. My setup is a 2016 Ram 1500 big Horn 2wd. I went down to 17" rims for cost of tires they are a -12 offset. Tires are 315/70R17 which converts to a 34.5x12.5R17 they are falken wild peak ATS. Again hopefully someone can learn from this or if I missed something let me know! Thanks
 
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