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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before I place this order, what are the pro's and cons to each?

-I only want to level. I have no intention of lifting my Laramie any further than that as I am a disabled veteran and cannot climb in and out of anything higher than a leveled truck without serious discomfort and risk of falling.

-I will only run a 33" tire, at the most.

-Planning to run stock wheels or (if I do change wheels in the future), stock offset.

-I do not want any accelerated wear and tear on the suspension components.

Knowing these facts, which is the better route to go? If I do the daystar kit, or similar, the strut comes out and the spacer goes in, then the strut goes in. Then alignment. Does not seem that it would change the suspension geometery all that much, and as a result, seems to me it would have less wear and tear.

On the other hand, the bilsteins are easy, and cheap, and my truck has 50,000 miles anyway so its not a waste at this point to change the shocks. How much stress do they put on ball joints and tie-rods when set at 2.8"?
 

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I would go with the bilstiens. I had mine installed about a month ago and love it. You might want to change out the UCA as I did replace mine with the Mevotechs.

Yes check out Brandon's write up every good information.
 

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2020 Ram Sport, night edition
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Bilstiens are the way to go. Had mine since 2010 no premature wear no wobbles and no troubles I have mine set at 1.7" just remember get a good alignment shop that understands 4x4 geometry you'll love the improved ride on gravel or rough roads. At 50,000 I'd put the back ones in too no lift there just improved ride quality
 

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2015 Ram 2500 Laramie Longhorn Limited CTD
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I would go with the bilstiens. I had mine installed about a month ago and love it. You might want to change out the UCA as I did replace mine with the Mevotechs.

Yes check out Brandon's write up every good information.
This comes up on every bilstein thread.

You do not need new UCA's with the Bilsteins. You need them with the spacer.
 

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I replaced the UCA just to be on the safe safe side. From what I have read here and many other forums, any lift over 2", you are risking the oem control arm ball joints to pop out. By all mean's I'm not a mechanic this is just from reading and also was told by 4Wheel Parts guy when I called to get a quote.
 

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You already have 33" tires, if you level without at least doing 34s those sidewalls are going to look super skinny. But if you level use Bisteins
 

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+1 for Bilsteins and bigger tires! As Thunderhorse said, at least 34's
 

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Some Assembly Required
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
meh, i would stay stock in your case.
cant. I need the ground clearance. Some of the places i have to go are rough.

You already have 33" tires, if you level without at least doing 34s those sidewalls are going to look super skinny. But if you level use Bisteins
I was not aware. 35's then :)
 

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So, you didn't realize you already have 33s. Some recommended you get 34s which would be 0.5" more clearance. But you "need" 35s for off road clearance. Did you bottom out recently? If so, I would recommened you check out my thread on skid plates! Much more important than another 0.5" is being ready for the 3" all the sudden on a rock you didn't plan on being there!
 

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2015 Ram 2500 Laramie Longhorn Limited CTD
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I replaced the UCA just to be on the safe safe side. From what I have read here and many other forums, any lift over 2", you are risking the oem control arm ball joints to pop out. By all mean's I'm not a mechanic this is just from reading and also was told by 4Wheel Parts guy when I called to get a quote.
I get where you're coming from and I'm not trying to put you down but the 4wheelparts guy was/is wrong about needing this for the bilsteins. The method of lifting is not the same so the ball joint problem does not exist with the Bilsteins.

The problem of popping balljoints occurs when the shock fully extends. When you add a spacer this increases the overall extended length of the shock. This overextends the ball joint, and POP.

The bilstein shock is identical in dimensions to the stock shock and simply preloads the spring to achieve the desired lift. The fully extended length is no different than the OE length so the ball joint problem does not exist here.

Hope that makes sense. 4wdparts seems to be either highly uneducated on how suspension works or are highly motivated to sell people things based on scare tactics.
 

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2015 Ram 2500 Laramie Longhorn Limited CTD
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So, you didn't realize you already have 33s. Some recommended you get 34s which would be 0.5" more clearance. But you "need" 35s for off road clearance. Did you bottom out recently? If so, I would recommened you check out my thread on skid plates! Much more important than another 0.5" is being ready for the 3" all the sudden on a rock you didn't plan on being there!
33's and a level look great with an MT or an all terrain. That's what I'm running. I wouldn't go any higher though.

35's look pretty stuffed. 34's would be spot on IMO.
 

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I get where you're coming from and I'm not trying to put you down but the 4wheelparts guy was/is wrong about needing this for the bilsteins. The method of lifting is not the same so the ball joint problem does not exist with the Bilsteins.

The problem of popping balljoints occurs when the shock fully extends. When you add a spacer this increases the overall extended length of the shock. This overextends the ball joint, and POP.

The bilstein shock is identical in dimensions to the stock shock and simply preloads the spring to achieve the desired lift. The fully extended length is no different than the OE length so the ball joint problem does not exist here.

Hope that makes sense. 4wdparts seems to be either highly uneducated on how suspension works or are highly motivated to sell people things based on scare tactics.
Yes it does and thank you for explaining. :smileup:
 

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I get where you're coming from and I'm not trying to put you down but the 4wheelparts guy was/is wrong about needing this for the bilsteins. The method of lifting is not the same so the ball joint problem does not exist with the Bilsteins.

The problem of popping balljoints occurs when the shock fully extends. When you add a spacer this increases the overall extended length of the shock. This overextends the ball joint, and POP.

The bilstein shock is identical in dimensions to the stock shock and simply preloads the spring to achieve the desired lift. The fully extended length is no different than the OE length so the ball joint problem does not exist here.

Hope that makes sense. 4wdparts seems to be either highly uneducated on how suspension works or are highly motivated to sell people things based on scare tactics.
Yes it does and thank you for explaining. :smileup:
 

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I wouldn't consider my 35's on a level to be stuffed at all. Unless I stuff them that is!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So, you didn't realize you already have 33s. Some recommended you get 34s which would be 0.5" more clearance. But you "need" 35s for off road clearance. Did you bottom out recently? If so, I would recommened you check out my thread on skid plates! Much more important than another 0.5" is being ready for the 3" all the sudden on a rock you didn't plan on being there!
http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=215490

Not bottomed out per se...but :doh:

No I did not realize the stock tire/rim combo is a 33. I have BFG Rugged Terrain T/A on now, in the stock size. Pretty badass AT tire as far as I can tell thus far. As far as Skid Plates, my Laramie came with them from the factory.:smileup:

I get where you're coming from and I'm not trying to put you down but the 4wheelparts guy was/is wrong about needing this for the bilsteins. The method of lifting is not the same so the ball joint problem does not exist with the Bilsteins.

The problem of popping balljoints occurs when the shock fully extends. When you add a spacer this increases the overall extended length of the shock. This overextends the ball joint, and POP.

The bilstein shock is identical in dimensions to the stock shock and simply preloads the spring to achieve the desired lift. The fully extended length is no different than the OE length so the ball joint problem does not exist here.

Hope that makes sense. 4wdparts seems to be either highly uneducated on how suspension works or are highly motivated to sell people things based on scare tactics.
Bingo. Thank you for this information, that was what I was thinking but wanted to be sure.

33's and a level look great with an MT or an all terrain. That's what I'm running. I wouldn't go any higher though.

35's look pretty stuffed. 34's would be spot on IMO.
thanks for the advice bud:smileup:

I wouldn't consider my 35's on a level to be stuffed at all. Unless I stuff them that is!
Yours is the EXACT look I am shooting for, so 35's it is!
 

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No one said how fun it was to get your stock shock out!!! LoL can’t do it the old school way and just lower your LCA. The top hat sucks. The shock bolt is lower than u can fit a wrench in. It’s the second time I’ve done this on 2 different trucks. Take the strut out, compress the spring and hack the shock rod to free itself . It wil save u so much time and bs. Been on 33x12.5 on stock rims no rub but u do need new UCA. 20,000 on my level no issues
 
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