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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just leveled my 2014 ram 1500 with bilsteins set at 2.1... Now under semi hard braking I get a load metal on metal schreaching noise under the front end....I also installed the mevotech upper control arms....any help please?
 

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bills top nut not tight enough?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that was the problem. I did all the work myself except switching the struts. The shop said they knew what they were doing...well no they didn't....they just didn't squeeze the spring enough when they tightened the top nut..
 

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So, you tightened it yourself?
 

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If that is the case I bet they put the washer on the wrong spot too. It happens quite often . The shaft will come right through the upper spring mount eventually if it is wrong . Washer goes on the shaft before the upper spring mount , not under the nut .
 

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Make sure the top nut is torqued down properly or it'll make noise after the threads are too stripped to fix the issue. Ask me how I know. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
???

If that is the case I bet they put the washer on the wrong spot too. It happens quite often . The shaft will come right through the upper spring mount eventually if it is wrong . Washer goes on the shaft before the upper spring mount , not under the nut .
they said they never took the spring off the compressor. they dropped the factory strut out of the bottom and put the perch on and slide it back up under the spring and into the top mount, put the lock washer on and the nut..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So, you tightened it yourself?
they tightened the nut without holding the shaft with the allen wrench the first time. only had 3 threads showing on top of the nut.....they re did it squeezing the spring more, holding the allen wrench in the strut shaft and tightening the nut with a 13/16 spark plug socket with hex head..
 

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Their procedure sounds fine except they didnt tighten the nut correctly . If they refer to the washer as a lock washer I wouldn't be surprised if its in the wrong place . Lock washers usually go under the nut , The washer on the Bilstein don't. They may of gotten it right , time will tell as the shaft will eventually force its way through the upper spring mount if they didnt . When you slide the shock part back into the spring the washer goes on the shaft first then the upper spring mount then the nut. reorient the spring on the shock as you tighten it all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well looks like I am taking mine apart for the 3rd time. I know they put the supplied washer on top of the top mount under the lock nut.....DAMN!!!!!
 

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I tried to answer your PM but dumb ass rules say I can read it but can't reply to u until I get 50 posts. I hope you got your answer to your PM. WASHER GOES ON THE SHAFT TO KEEP IT FROM PUSHING THROUGH THE UPPER SPRING MOUNT THEN THE UPPER MOUNT AND THEN THE NUT WITH NO WASHER. THE SHAFT DIAMETER IS NOT MUCH BIGGER THAN THE HOLE IN THE MOUNT . ADDING THE WASHER IS LIKE MAKING THE SHAFT A LARGER DIAMETER TO HEL PREVENT IT FROM PUSHING THROUGH


I was not yelling as it looks. I didn't notice caps was on till I finished and by then I was so aggravated with their PM rules I said to hell with it and left it . I can see why this place has little activity any more . Take a look at Ram Forum for more info
 

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please help with my Bilstein install...….

all finished and completed by me. I didn't want to do it cause the spring compressor was a cheap one. I used it and the all thread was bowing pretty bad. as a precaution I used 3 heavy duty plastic zip ties on the springs as I tightened up the spring compressor to where I could get the top nut off...the threads were somewhat smashed on the Bilstein shaft but I slowly ran the nut up and down to clean up the threads. also the allan on top of the strut was rounded out pretty bad but I had a brand new metric allan that was able to hold it that was another reason I cleaned up the threads first...
this was all done first by a friend at his garage the first 2 times and not done properly.....I text him numerous times as I realized there were issues...I never got a response...not so good of a friend I guess...
 

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Glad ya got it . As you can see I had a few issues trying to answer your PM so I tried to post some info here. I have also slid the rubber bump stop down the shaft some and held the shaft with vice grips as high as I could so if I made any marks it would never enter the actual shock body rather than the allen wrench BS. That way I could use an air impact to work the nut if needed. coat the exposed threads and nut with synthetic disc brake caliper lube when finished,Much better than anti seize . My compressors bow each time I do it too ya get used to it after while . Glad ya got it
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks but now I am getting a grind feel in the front end. I bought ceramic brakes and I am hoping that is the issue...I surface ground the rotors myself at work...my luck it will be the bearings hub or CV...
I HAVE NEVER ENJOYED DRIVING THIS POS. THE DAY I BOUGHT IT ON FEB 1, 2014 ON THE WAY HOME I NOTICED A VIBRATION AT 2000 RPMS. THEN MONTH OF MAY CAME AND THE VIBS WENT AWAY BUT I GOT A CLUNK IN THE FRONT END. SO FOR 4 YEARS I HAVE A 2000 RPM VIBRATION IN THE WINTER AND A CLUNK IN THE FRONT IN THE SUMMER. I HAVE SEARCHED THE FORUM FOR A FIX FOR EITHER AND NO MATTER WHAT I TRIED IT DIDNT FIX IT. NOW MY STRUTS LEAK AND I BUY BILSTEINS. BUT BEFORE THE BILSTEIN INSTALL I FELT THE GRINDING IN THE FRONT END.

I JUST NEED TO DUMP THIS POS.. TRUCK HAS 55,000 MILES.....
 

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thanks but now I am getting a grind feel in the front end. I bought ceramic brakes and I am hoping that is the issue...I surface ground the rotors myself at work...my luck it will be the bearings hub or CV...
I HAVE NEVER ENJOYED DRIVING THIS POS. THE DAY I BOUGHT IT ON FEB 1, 2014 ON THE WAY HOME I NOTICED A VIBRATION AT 2000 RPMS. THEN MONTH OF MAY CAME AND THE VIBS WENT AWAY BUT I GOT A CLUNK IN THE FRONT END. SO FOR 4 YEARS I HAVE A 2000 RPM VIBRATION IN THE WINTER AND A CLUNK IN THE FRONT IN THE SUMMER. I HAVE SEARCHED THE FORUM FOR A FIX FOR EITHER AND NO MATTER WHAT I TRIED IT DIDNT FIX IT. NOW MY STRUTS LEAK AND I BUY BILSTEINS. BUT BEFORE THE BILSTEIN INSTALL I FELT THE GRINDING IN THE FRONT END.

I JUST NEED TO DUMP THIS POS.. TRUCK HAS 55,000 MILES.....

If its been so problematic then why have you kept it for 4 years instead of lemon lawing it. Nothing was fixed under warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If its been so problematic then why have you kept it for 4 years instead of lemon lawing it. Nothing was fixed under warranty?
Cause I have terrible luck.....I had a 2012 f150 that had the intercooler condensation issue that nearly killed 4 of us. they fixed it by hanging a piece of plastic over the intercooler and took about 2 lbs. of boost. Ran like crap after that and had many other issues also...truck was on its 3rd steering rack because of a bad clunk in the steering rack that ford didn't have a fix for...went thru numerous rear sliding windows because of a ear piercing squeak. front diff. seal blew out and they fixed it but they never rear filled the diff. Found this out a year by checking myself. it have very little gear lube in it...Truck had a bad miss going up hills at 55mph, they said they all do that..i lemoned that truck after 2 years and got some cash back...so what happens I get another POS in this ram....its hard taking such a loss on back to back trucks...
 
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