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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought my Truck in June. I've loved it so far. About 2 months after buying it i started getting a noise coming form behind the glove box, turns out it was coming from my re-circulation door. The door would open and start recirculating air, and then it would fall closed, and then open, and then fall closed again. every time i started the truck it would do this multiple times. and then once it stopped, it would no longer operate until i restarted the truck. Simple fix, i unplugged the actuator, so now it no longer recirculates, which wasn't an issue for me really. Earlier this week i jumped in the truck and started it up, set the HVAC control to defrost, and came back out 10 minutes later to a completely frosty windshield when its 10 degrees outside. No air coming out the defrost vents, but instead it was all coming out at my feet. I would occasionally hear some noises behind the dash when i would first start the truck up, and i could never get air anywhere other than my feet, so i figured i should grab anew actuator and replace the bad one if thats the case. Tore the dash out, started inspecting the actuators, and here is whats happening.

The floor control actuator does not have stripped out gears, it opperates just fine in place of any other actuator, and all good actuators, when plugged into the socket of the floor control actuator, malfunctions just as the original actuator would. Heres what it does.... The floor control actuator, on startup, spins one direction for about 8 seconds straight, stops for a second, then spins in the same direction 2 more times for a duration of 8 seconds each, basically shutting the floor blend door and constantly trying to shove it shut for about half a minute.

SSSSOOOOOO..... The Actuator is not the problem. I think i need a new HVAC Control module. Has anybody ever seen this problem? The module seems to be at fault, telling the actuator to mis-operate.
 

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Subscribed. I'm having issues as well - if I run the air on recirculate for a while, and then set it back to non-recirculate, something happens to where I get no airflow out of ANY vents - and then if I shut the truck off and come back it'll be fine. During this time when I'm getting no airflow I'll get water leaking down by the blower motor (which coincidentally I just swapped out today because my original was making a bearing noise). In winter I get the same problem after running the defroster windshield vents only - run that for a while and then something closes and I get almost no airflow anywhere even with the call fan screaming on high. Water eventually builds up and sloshes around and starts leaking. I get a clicking noise from behind glove box area. Can't duplicate it reliably so I've avoided taking it in just yet. Nervous about running it through the winter like this. Interested to see what others chime in with because mine seems like your issue - it's a random malfunction and seems unrelated to stripped gears on one or more actuators though I admit I have not pulled the dash to inspect.
 

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Subscribed. I'm having issues as well - if I run the air on recirculate for a while, and then set it back to non-recirculate, something happens to where I get no airflow out of ANY vents - and then if I shut the truck off and come back it'll be fine. During this time when I'm getting no airflow I'll get water leaking down by the blower motor (which coincidentally I just swapped out today because my original was making a bearing noise). In winter I get the same problem after running the defroster windshield vents only - run that for a while and then something closes and I get almost no airflow anywhere even with the call fan screaming on high. Water eventually builds up and sloshes around and starts leaking. I get a clicking noise from behind glove box area. Can't duplicate it reliably so I've avoided taking it in just yet. Nervous about running it through the winter like this. Interested to see what others chime in with because mine seems like your issue - it's a random malfunction and seems unrelated to stripped gears on one or more actuators though I admit I have not pulled the dash to inspect.
i would still take it in.
 

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I'd try a quick calibration first, no guarantees, but for the price and 3 minutes of time, it can't hurt. Good luck

HVAC Manual Recalibration below

With the vehicle running set the HVAC blower to low

-Press and hold the recirculation button on the HVAC Control Head for 10 seconds and release.

-Now press and hold the recirculation button on the HVAC Control Head again until the recirculation LED begins to flash, then release.

-The system will perform a brief recalibration and reset faults
 

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The picture is of the blend door (foot) position, the actuator slides into the splines and turns the door. You can see the lower and upper stops. If you physically activate the door up it should freely fall with a thud or thump, you should be able to feel a slight weight to it when you move it. If you don't get this the door may be broken. This will require that the HVAC unit to be pulled out of the truck for repair.

If you are getting the thumping sound the door is probably OK. It may be the control unit for the head so hopefully the manual calibration mentioned above will take care of it.

You mentioned you tried another motor from another position. If it was the motor directly to the left it is possible this motor won't work properly in this position as this motor has a different torque than the others.

The motors are only about $40 from dealer parts. I would be a little wary of going third party as many have experienced problems with them and FCA has beefed up the replacement part for this also.
 

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Subscribed. I'm having issues as well - if I run the air on recirculate for a while, and then set it back to non-recirculate, something happens to where I get no airflow out of ANY vents - and then if I shut the truck off and come back it'll be fine. During this time when I'm getting no airflow I'll get water leaking down by the blower motor (which coincidentally I just swapped out today because my original was making a bearing noise). In winter I get the same problem after running the defroster windshield vents only - run that for a while and then something closes and I get almost no airflow anywhere even with the call fan screaming on high. Water eventually builds up and sloshes around and starts leaking. I get a clicking noise from behind glove box area. Can't duplicate it reliably so I've avoided taking it in just yet. Nervous about running it through the winter like this. Interested to see what others chime in with because mine seems like your issue - it's a random malfunction and seems unrelated to stripped gears on one or more actuators though I admit I have not pulled the dash to inspect.
Sounds like your drain is plugged up. Condensation from the evaporator is being retained.



Go out to the engine compartment on the passenger side firewall, look for a tube (next to the heater tube core label in the picture) and see if you can insert something to see if it is plugged. One of the bigger ty-raps is good or something similar as it is not hard enough to do any possible damage.
 

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I'd try a quick calibration first, no guarantees, but for the price and 3 minutes of time, it can't hurt. Good luck

HVAC Manual Recalibration below

With the vehicle running set the HVAC blower to low

-Press and hold the recirculation button on the HVAC Control Head for 10 seconds and release.

-Now press and hold the recirculation button on the HVAC Control Head again until the recirculation LED begins to flash, then release.

-The system will perform a brief recalibration and reset faults

Hey thanks for this info but it does not seem to work on climate control systems? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Give this a bump because I still have not resolved the issue. Even after trying the calibration. The thing that gets me, is the actuator will rotate in one direction for like a solid 10 seconds. Where it usually takes about a second, second and a half at most to open or close one of those blend doors. So why on earth would it sit there and try and open or close for such a long period of time. I even went to the junkyard and got a replacement head for the have controls and that didn’t do anything differently. I’m stumped. And when it’s 0 degrees here in Ohio like it has been recently, not having floor heat is a real pain in the rump.

I’ve read before that the dealer can actually reclaim that hoax control system, although the 3 dealers close to me act as if that’s not true and they’ve never heard of such thing.
 

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The blend door travel is only about 90 degrees up and down. Check that white actuator and make sure it is moving properly. You should feel a little weight to it when lifting and when you let it go you should hear a thump when it goes down.

If the motor actuator is traveling for 10 sec something is stripped out, most likely the gears in the motor



 

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Give this a bump because I still have not resolved the issue. Even after trying the calibration. The thing that gets me, is the actuator will rotate in one direction for like a solid 10 seconds. Where it usually takes about a second, second and a half at most to open or close one of those blend doors. So why on earth would it sit there and try and open or close for such a long period of time. I even went to the junkyard and got a replacement head for the have controls and that didn’t do anything differently. I’m stumped. And when it’s 0 degrees here in Ohio like it has been recently, not having floor heat is a real pain in the rump.

I’ve read before that the dealer can actually reclaim that hoax control system, although the 3 dealers close to me act as if that’s not true and they’ve never heard of such thing.
Not sure what year of Ram you have, but mine is a 2011 Ram 1500 SLT and my floor heat has not worked for a year. The actuator turns the white gear drive, but nothing changes. I got tired of the problem and took a oscolation tool and cut a hole in the duct to see what had happened. Inside I found that something had fallen thru the defrost vent and got into the blend door, jamming it. The actuator had enough power to break the white colored gear drive, that connects the actuator to the blend door. The blend door has a metal D shaft that the drive gear slides over. After I cut the hole I figured out the drive gear comes off by taking a thin screw driver at about the 11 oclock position from the arm and sliding it under the to release a push tab, then it slides off the shaft. I removed the obstruction and apoxy resin the side panel back in place. All I need now is a replacement drive gear to fix the problem, but Dodge does not offer this part for sale. Trying salvage yards now, but the 2012 version was changed to a different type of drive gear that had a male end that went into the blend door and mine has a female end.
 

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Not sure what year of Ram you have, but mine is a 2011 Ram 1500 SLT and my floor heat has not worked for a year. The actuator turns the white gear drive, but nothing changes. I got tired of the problem and took a oscolation tool and cut a hole in the duct to see what had happened. Inside I found that something had fallen thru the defrost vent and got into the blend door, jamming it. The actuator had enough power to break the white colored gear drive, that connects the actuator to the blend door. The blend door has a metal D shaft that the drive gear slides over. After I cut the hole I figured out the drive gear comes off by taking a thin screw driver at about the 11 oclock position from the arm and sliding it under the to release a push tab, then it slides off the shaft. I removed the obstruction and apoxy resin the side panel back in place. All I need now is a replacement drive gear to fix the problem, but Dodge does not offer this part for sale. Trying salvage yards now, but the 2012 version was changed to a different type of drive gear that had a male end that went into the blend door and mine has a female end.
129570
129571
129572


I tried glueing the piece back on and ended up breaking off the push tab, trying to glue it. The glue did not hold up and the flat side of the D broke off again.
 

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I'd try a quick calibration first, no guarantees, but for the price and 3 minutes of time, it can't hurt. Good luck

HVAC Manual Recalibration below

With the vehicle running set the HVAC blower to low

-Press and hold the recirculation button on the HVAC Control Head for 10 seconds and release.

-Now press and hold the recirculation button on the HVAC Control Head again until the recirculation LED begins to flash, then release.

-The system will perform a brief recalibration and reset faults
 

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I did this calibration and it totally fixed my issue... Thank you so very much Sir!!!
I'd try a quick calibration first, no guarantees, but for the price and 3 minutes of time, it can't hurt. Good luck

HVAC Manual Recalibration below

With the vehicle running set the HVAC blower to low

-Press and hold the recirculation button on the HVAC Control Head for 10 seconds and release.

-Now press and hold the recirculation button on the HVAC Control Head again until the recirculation LED begins to flash, then release.

-The system will perform a brief recalibration and reset faults
 

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I'd try a quick calibration first, no guarantees, but for the price and 3 minutes of time, it can't hurt. Good luck

HVAC Manual Recalibration below

With the vehicle running set the HVAC blower to low

-Press and hold the recirculation button on the HVAC Control Head for 10 seconds and release.

-Now press and hold the recirculation button on the HVAC Control Head again until the recirculation LED begins to flash, then release.

-The system will perform a brief recalibration and reset faults
Hey this worked great for me thanks!!!
 
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