Installment 5 - Final connections, at the TIPM -
***** 2011/12 Update*****
EDIT - If you have a 2011/12, there is updated wiring information starting at post 47 and details at post 51. Thank you Bikenut and Asur for contributing and updating this thread with new truck information. :smileup:
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I apologize for the blurriness of some of the pix. I thought I was being so smart by using an older camera with smaller picture sizes, only to discover that I didn't see the poor macro quality in the camera's massive 1" display.
Once the TIPM was lifted out of it's holder, I disconnected both Connector E & G as their harnesses are tied together, and disconnecting G made it easier to work on E. Notice how the TIPM sits nicely on top of the battery -
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As I wanted to give this a close to 'factory' look, I wanted to make my connections inside the connector shell. The shell easily removes from the back of the connector (Sorry, no pix). Just 4 small tabs that are real easy to see and manipulate. As I also did NOT want to cut any wires, the only way I could do the splice and heat shrink it on completion would be to remove the wire and connector from the connector housing. This meant removing the connector locking piece (lime green)....which turned out to be a whole lot easier than I thought it would be. Just slip the blade of a small screwdriver in the divot on each end of the connector and gently pry it up. Once up a bit, you can pull it off this your fingers. You DO NOT have to worry about the wires falling out of the connector. This green lock thing, only disables access to the pin locks, and makes them virtually vibration proof -
Cut the electric lock cable harness to length...make sure you route it into position before cutting.
(See the last pic in this installment for a recommended route/fit.)
To remove the wires from the connector housing, use a small pointy thing to gently pry back the tiny plastic clip that locks the wire connector in the connector housing, while gently pulling of the wire. They come out very easy....if not, make sure the tab you are releasing is the same as the wire you are pulling. The 2 wires of choice are Tan/Light Blue
(TN/LB) in cavity 18 and Tan/Dark Blue
(TN/DB) in cavity 22.
(( Misc info - These 2 wires are actually connected to the passenger rear door power lock)) If you think the 2 wires are the same color, which is exactly how them looked to me (but can see the difference in the photos), you can use a Sharpie or similar marker to add a mark to one of them (I chose the cavity 22 one) so that you have a better chance of getting them back in the right hole later -
I carefully stripped about 1/2" of insulation, about 1" from the connector pin. Using the wire splice metal clips that came in the kit, I crimped the black wire to the TN/DB and the red to the TN/LB -
Once crimped, I soldered the connections -
I then took 1 piece of the heat shrink tubing from the kit and cut it in half. The connection and space in the connector is too small for the full size tubes supplied. Slide 1 piece on each wire over the splice and heated until the heat shrink sealed on the wires.
The heat shrink supplied has a sealant inside it. When heating/shrinking it, make sure the sealant shows at the ends....but only heat until it shows. There is no benefit in 'over shrinking this type of heat shrink, and it won't provide the proper protection, unless it's heated enough, so look for the sealant to start 'leaking' from the ends -
Now slide the connectors back into the connector housing -
Re-install the green pin lock (It will go either way) -
Clip the cover back (shell) on the connector and plug the connectors back into the TIPM -
Put the TIPM back into its holder, re-connect the power cable to it, re-connect the battery cable, and ENJOY your new MOD!!!
The tailgate will function like a passenger door. It's operation will follow whatever programming you have for the passenger doors. In my case, I am 1 unlock to unlock the drivers door, and a second unlock to unlock the passenger doors/tailgate. One hit of the lock button locks all doors and tailgate.
Added note - The 'key' hidden in your key fob will lock and unlock the tailgate manually, but with this device installed, it will feel 'heavier' than you are used to.
Alarm note - If you have a factory alarm system, you are probably aware that manually (with hidden key) unlocking the door WILL set off the alarm.
This is NOT THE CASE with the tailgate, as the tailgate does not have a sensor to tell the truck whether or not it is open or closed.
Hope this information is useful to someone.
If you have any questions, or particular picture requests, just ask! :smiley_thumbs_up:
