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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I replaced my front brake pads on both sides today, and as I finished with the passenger side, I noticed the brake line leading to the caliper was really worn on one spot, so I examined my tire and found it had been rubbing on that brake line. So now I need to replace it ASAP.

Anyone ever done this? how hard is it?
 

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Its not as bad as the hard lines and you don't have to remove caliper. On remove caliper side of line first then hard line side. On hard line side you will need two wreches, pliers to remove the flat clip. After that you might get lucky and have to bleed out just that side. Also use lots of pb blaster! The hoses have brass, line is steel so they like to stick together!
 

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I take it your talking about the rubber hose ? Not a bad job . Before starting the job , make sure the bleeder in that caliper can be loosened . If not your looking at more repairs . Possible caliper replacement if you can't remove the bleeder . Take a close look at the steel brake lines also . It seems that these generation Rams steel brake lines were made of some rather poor steel . I just lost the brake line going to my rear axle . Damn it . Then I noticed how bad all of them really are .
 

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As others said, check the bleed screw on the caliper. If it still has the rubber cap on it you may be able to loosen it still. Also, if the steel line going into the rubber line is anything like mine was it will most likely snap off due to rust when you try and loosen it.
 

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True on the steel line where it goes into the rubber hose connection . If the nut on the steel line doesn't spin freely , you'll twist the line in half . If you see this happening , get a propane torch and heat up the nut only . Once you get the nut hot , with your wrench , go back and forth until the nut starts to break free and spin .
 

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My steel line was so petrified that as soon as I looked at it it pretty much started to leak. The way it's positioned it pretty much funnels all the road salt, sand and water right into it. Maybe you'll be luckier than I was....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice. Lots of great advice.
I plan on buying the cable on my next day off and putting it on. As for rust and what not, I have looked at them and they don't seem all that bad.
Maybe cause my Ram was garaged like 90% of it's life.

Also how long does it usually take to bleed the system? Or hopefully I just have to drain that one side, like Ramfam said.
 

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If you have to bleed down the whole thing. Find a friend to run the pedal, find a pice of vacuum hose and a clean glass container. Start with further wheel from booster and work your way to the closest. If all of the bleed screws are not frozen should take 20-30 min.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you have to bleed down the whole thing. Find a friend to run the pedal, find a pice of vacuum hose and a clean glass container. Start with further wheel from booster and work your way to the closest. If all of the bleed screws are not frozen should take 20-30 min.
Well there is only one cable that I need to replace, it is the front passenger side. I don't believe I would have to drain the entire system, but maybe.

But depending on the cost of cable, I might just replace both sides just to be on the safe side.
 

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As others have said, it almost funnels the salt to the front drivers side junction.
Thats where mines broken right now and decided to fix it myself. I bought a 20 or 25' roll of poly coated tube from the local Advance. Then ordered the flaring kit, tubing cutter & benders off Amazon.

This is the only place i've found prebent kits...

http://www.classictube.com/index.php
 
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