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My 2012 1500 has under 18k miles on it. Bought it 2. years ago.

Started noticing a pulsation when stopping and I was like WTF.

I have felt that before on many cars...but never with under 20k miles.

Pulled the wheels and found that the front rotors are delaminating. ALso found that the pads are 3/4 gone and binding badly......my guess is the binding is what caused the rotors to overheat and warp the rotor(s) and incur increased wear.

So rather than just having the rotors resurfaced I bought new Raybestos rotors and pads.

I know brakes are wear items, so I didnt bother with the dealer...had to get this done quickly...so bit the bullet.

I miss the old days where you could get a couple resurfaces out of a rotor...delamination was very rare. Now its the norm.

hated to spend the money on a lease that is up in 6 months but the brakes would not have made it that far I do not think, and changing brakes in the driveway in the snow is not fun...been there, got the t shirt. LOL

This is the first time I have had a set of pads/rotors go that fast on a brand new vehicle. My wife's 2011 Stang needed its rotors resurfaced at 36k miles due to pulsing, but the pads were like new.

Anyways, just thought I would vent. Thanks for reading. :smileup:
 

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I gave up on getting rotors turned. You can get new oem quality rotors fairly cheap and no worries. Raybestos is decent brand too.

Like you, I hate working on vehicles in the middle of winter so I get it all done before it snows. Had a hub bearing go on my 05 GMC in January. That sucked big time.
 

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Mine aren't anywhere near your problem. But 35K and needing new pads is not inspiring.
 

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Warped rotors? Snow? Hmmm.......see the problem here? You folks in the frigid north are victims of the climate. Hot rotors from quick stop, hits ice water, warp. Or chill factor going down the road. if its cold enough to freeze water any idea what chill factor on front end of your truck is at any speed? Now hit the brakes.....Warp time. Next time around opt for the drilled vented rotors (we use "Callahan" on line or ebay) We run them on our trucks that run north in winter months end of problem. Get the ceramic pads to round out package.
 

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Warped rotors? Snow? Hmmm.......see the problem here? You folks in the frigid north are victims of the climate. Hot rotors from quick stop, hits ice water, warp. Or chill factor going down the road. if its cold enough to freeze water any idea what chill factor on front end of your truck is at any speed? Now hit the brakes.....Warp time. Next time around opt for the drilled vented rotors (we use "Callahan" on line or ebay) We run them on our trucks that run north in winter months end of problem. Get the ceramic pads to round out package.

The warping is caused by heat, not cold. The snow binds the calipers up causing them to drag, heat up and warp.
I got 100k on mine way up north here with lots of towing miles and no brake controller.
 

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I got 8 years and 130,000 miles out of my front jetta breaks and I drive the snot out of that car. I bypassed the dealer suggestion to "service" the back breaks before the pads were worn. they told me the calipers would stick and prematurely wear out the pads. Sure, I thought. Well that's exactly what happened. Fronts need to be done before the snow though.

Oh, I have 70,000 miles on my 2010 liberty and the rears are just needing some tlc now but I'm trading it on my new RAM as soon as it shows. It's in trim now.
 

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I had problems with the last Dodge truck I owned a 95, had warped brakes once a year. I'm hoping I don't have issues with this one. Warped brakes can happen anywhere though, when they get hot and you drive through cold water it can shock them and then you have warped rotors. Of coarse slamming on the brakes frequently with a heavy truck will warp them too.
 

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65k out of my factory front brakes. They started to get a slight pulsation around 60k. The truck tows a lot when compared to most other trucks on the road. Rears are warped but I am waiting it out. May try to turn the rears and get through winter and throw new pads/rotors on in the spring. I paint the un machined surfaces on my rotors to make them last a little longer. Some of the factory Mopar stuff comes that way as well.
 

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Swagger is right, heat is the culprit, get cast iron HOT then toss ice water on it (puddles in your case) Todays metallurgy is better than when disc's first came out. When we lived up north, in the winter we would have vehicles come into service dept with cracks and even shattered in pieces. Now they warp they don't "explode" into pieces. Again try the drilled vented rotors with ceramic pads, end of problem. Picker.
 

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My brakes are still fine after 80k and trust me our Alberta winters are harsh :(

But I'll inspect more once my new rims come in hopefully today :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Warped rotors? Snow? Hmmm.......see the problem here? You folks in the frigid north are victims of the climate. Hot rotors from quick stop, hits ice water, warp. Or chill factor going down the road. if its cold enough to freeze water any idea what chill factor on front end of your truck is at any speed? Now hit the brakes.....Warp time. Next time around opt for the drilled vented rotors (we use "Callahan" on line or ebay) We run them on our trucks that run north in winter months end of problem. Get the ceramic pads to round out package.
That is a valid explanation of some occurences of this issue.

But not all.

In my case, the pulsation due to warping didnt happen in the winter. It didnt start doing it until sometime in early summer.

No, my feeling is that its the crap steel they use for rotors now.

Som e may feel that today's metalurgy is superior to that in the 80s or even 90's...and trhat may be true....IF we were talking about US sourced steel and rotors. I never had so many rotors go bad, especially the delamination issue, so fast 20 years ago, and that is when they were sourced out of the US or even Mexico and Canada. Now everything is chinese garbage.

Never needed to use drilled rotors for street vehicles. You could always get a couple cuts out of a rotor, especially the original ones that came with the car. Not now, at least not around here.

And my pads 3/4 dead at 17k miles? That is deplorable.

My wife's 2011 Mustang has 40k miles on it and thwe pads are like new.

Yes, the stang is lighter, smaller, etc. and the RAM much heavier.

In my opinion that might mean that the pads that are used or perhaps the rotor material are not correctly matched to the vehicle.

I have not really changed my driving habits....I have not moved...the climate has not changed.....the only thing that has changed is the vehicle and the source of the steel/rotors.......

I am a simple guy -- and one that has been around the block or two - I put 2 and 2 together and get 4. :smileup:
 

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Just for the record my DD is a 3/4 ton GMC van that runs across the scales at just a hair under 10,000 lbs,made it to 327,000km's on the orginal pads and rotors,just maybe Dodges rotors are crap.
If GM can build brakes that last,i'm sure Dodge could do the same, if they dug the accountants out of their asses
 

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GM rotors are no better than Dodge, look up the issues, had to replace mine on my last truck for warping. HD 3/4 trucks are likely much stronger than a half ton. I have heard sometimes rotors can warp, when really hot, after you stop for a long time at a light with the brake on. Pads are not an issue as if they wear quickly it usually means your rotors won't. Our 2003 Camry is still on the original rotors and rear brakes. But the factory brakes suck on it, kinda week and without feel. After 45,000 kms, my 2011 ram is great so far, my 2007 GM rotors were warped at 22,000 kms.
 

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You got 204,000 miles out of a set of front brake pads?
LOL,yup,the company owner also wanted to know how i got that many miles out the brakes.
The pads still had a fair bit left to them,but the rotors were shot.
Grew up driving 3 and 5 ton farm trucks,that never had much in the way of brakes,so i learned how to plan ahead,lol.
Fred and Barney never had anything on the Saskatchewan grain trucks we had on the farm,lol
Watch the walk signal at lights,that sucker is your best friend in the city for judging lights:smileup:
 

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I didn't have good luck with my drilled and slotted rotors from R1. They were on a Lincoln Mark VIII. Less than one year and the rear rotors were rusted out. The fronts were better, but not good. None of them warped, but they were falling apart.
 

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I drove my '09 Ram 1500 for close to 5 years, 100,000 miles down here by the California/Mexican Border
Decided to replace the OEM Shocks, they pulled the wheels off to do it & told me that the brakes were getting close & rotors had a ridge
Front rotors can be turned twice, rears can only be turned once, according to the numbers stamped on the rotors
Brake Pads that went on were POSI-QUIET ceramics
 
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