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You're catching on. For the most part any claims for ultra white/pure white, 55W = 100W whatever the hell they say is bullshit and serves the purpose of selling bulbs rather than illuminating the road.

Kelvin ratings are deceiving and the actual color varies depending on the intensity of the light source. The 9011's are definitely not yellow. They will be white and less yellow than whatever is in there now because they simply have a higher light intensity.

HID PNP kits have destroyed any meaning to what color temperature actually implies.

The crystal visions have a bit of a blue filter but IMO it is not as thick as some of the others I've seen. I believe them to be good bulbs but truth be told any time you add a filter you're reducing your output. Phillips makes a quality bulb, so I don't think you're giving up anything going with the crystal vision line.

The exception is HID's of course because their salt mixture actually dictates the color in which they burn at. So it is possible to achieve 3200 lumens from a bulb at 4300K without giving up anything. Generally the more blue salt mixtures (4300K and above) are less efficient and you lose lumens, although the blue color appears brighter it has less illumination power generally and has a tendency to reflect off of surfaces.

Blue colors appear more intense even when they might not actually be because the color is much harder on your eyes and is perceived to be more intense. Hence why everyone seems to think those expensive silverstar/ZXP bulbs are the shit....Well, they are shit.
Yellow bulbs FTW!!

Why would you put in bulbs with a filter that lets light with more propensity to glare through, but reduces the light that penetrates farther?
 

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Received my 9011 Phillips bulbs Friday and finally got my 2016 headlights in my 2012 Ram today. Seriously, just a few simple snips of my nail trimmers and these bulbs were good to go. It was so easy, I was just waiting for the other shoe to drop, so to speak lol.

I haven't tested out the output as I am in for the night. However, I'm sure I'll take notice of the difference when I drive to the PO for work in the morning. Looking forward to it and will report back if I encounter any issues (highly unlikely).
 

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So I just bought two new headlight assemblies for my 2014 - my driver's side had moisture inside and I got a killer deal (2 for $135) - and did the bulb switch at the same time. Perhaps I have my headlights aimed incorrectly, but I'm not seeing the same results as others. While they seem a bit brighter, they don't seem to project further down the road, nor to the sides.
When you all aim your headlights, what specs do you use? Seems to me I heard 4' high on a wall from 6' back. Any insight would be appreciated.

Update - Today was the first time I'd driven in the rain with the new bulbs and there was definitely a difference in brightness compared to the old ones. Overall, I'm really happy I changed them out.
 

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So I just bought two new headlight assemblies for my 2014 - my driver's side had moisture inside and I got a killer deal (2 for $135) - and did the bulb switch at the same time. Perhaps I have my headlights aimed incorrectly, but I'm not seeing the same results as others. While they seem a bit brighter, they don't seem to project further down the road, nor to the sides.
When you all aim your headlights, what specs do you use? Seems to me I heard 4' high on a wall from 6' back. Any insight would be appreciated.

Update - Today was the first time I'd driven in the rain with the new bulbs and there was definitely a difference in brightness compared to the old ones. Overall, I'm really happy I changed them out.
2.5-4" drop over 25 feet.
 

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2.5-4" drop over 25 feet.
Thanks!
I'm assuming one would add any extra lift height to the above dimensions so, in my case with a 4" lift, I'd be 6.5-8"?
 

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Thanks!
I'm assuming one would add any extra lift height to the above dimensions so, in my case with a 4" lift, I'd be 6.5-8"?
You bet! You're probably in the 5-7" range. But a fool proof way to do it would be to adjust it as a baseline at 6" and then have someone in a car 40' away from you and see if they are being blinded :p, and then turn each down 1/2 turn until they aren't.
 

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"Light Emitting Douchebag" LOL! Luv it!

Yup, gotta' luv those useless splash over light mods. It's called "cut off angles " Hello!

Also bare in mind about the inherent wiring harness issues within the headlight housings themselves, in regards to our Rams. Just had my connectors permanently repaired .
 

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Well, I finally did the conversion. I got the 9011's from RockAuto last fall but waited for some warm weather to do the conversion. The bulbs were Wagner but were marked Philips.

Thanks kelaog for all your work on this thread!

I did remove the grill; by watching youtubes I had a pretty good idea of what to expect but real life is different. Grill removal was easier than I thought it was going to be. I did tape the painted flat surface below the grill just in case there was a chance of scratching the paint and I think that's a good idea. I tried to see the white tab that locks the headlight assembly into place, the one behind the wheel well door but there was so much dirt in there that I couldn't see it at first. Once I figured out what it had to be, I was able to feel inside the fender well and pushed the tab up as required to release the headlight. On the second headlight, I never tried to look for it. I found it by feel; it is pretty unmistakable.

All of the bolts to remove the grill and headlight are 10mm. The door on the back of the projector headlight assembly covering the bulbs uses 6 - 8mm screws. To remove the bottom bolt on the headlight assembly, it helps if you have a very long extension so that your ratchet is above the grill.

After removing the two screws and releasing the latch in the wheel well, the projector headlight assembly will still be held into the truck by a ball and socket type clip. To remove the assembly, it must come straight forward. The assembly was more difficult to remove than I thought. Putting a trim tool between the headlight assembly and the fender is probably the best way to accomplish this but I didn't see that suggestion until I reread this thread this morning.

Because I have a 2016 Laramie, I replace all 4 9005's with 9011's. The change in night driving was impressive. On high beam, the light dispersion to the sides of the truck was excellent; much better than the 9005's I think. In my 15km test drive last night, I easily saw two deer on the sides of the highway that I'm not sure would have been as visible with the 9005's. My only complaint is how much brighter the reflective yellow highway signs are :) almost blinding.

This upgrade was well worth the effort. Thanks for everyone's input and contributions! Broyd.
 

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Mine are still kickin'
 

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Just installed a pair of 9011 in low beams and moved the 9005SL's from the low to the high beam. Will check them out tonight to see if they are indeed brighter than the 9005SL that was in low beam from factory. I did not remove the entire grill just removed the four screws on top then popped the two clips on top with a long screw driver and just tipped the grill forward. Never did figure out how the other two came out I did not want to break anything so I stopped there. I did take the one minute it took to painter tape everything off. Glad I did because on the passenger side I did grab the tape with the headlight assembly and wrecked part of the tape which probably would have marked the paint a bit.
 

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Hey dude I'm assuming you're running quads.

FYI: silverstar ultra's are a sham. The regular silverstars aren't too bad because they aren't heavily tinted to filter out yellow light. Phillips Xtreme Vision are one of the best bulbs on the market.

If you really wanna supercharge those quads you can do an H9 swap for the H11 in the low beam. This will yield about 2100 lumens from 1250, so almost double the light output. Because the low beam has a glarecap this shouldn't cause glare to other road users. I haven't actually tried this swap myself but theoretically it'll work. The stock circuit is rated for 15amps so even with the extra 10W you're no where near the limit.

For the highbeam you can run 9011's in place of the 9005's so that'll bring you from 1700 to 2300 lumens.

For the H9's just get regular phillips bulbs. They don't make any special lines for H9, but the upgrade on it's own will be whiter and way brighter. Life is shorter on the h9 compared to the H11 but that's about the only downside. But since you're just buying regular H9's they're cheap :)

For 9011's just get phillips(Or wagner...) as well.

You will need to trim the tabs a bit with nail clippers but this will take you about 5 mins.

Just google H11 to H9 swap.

For the 9005 to 9011


Should be pretty obvious when you take your 9005 out of the highbeam and hold it up to the 9011 what needs doing same with the h9 vs the h11.

You'll notice this upgrade big time lol :)


Awesome write up!


For us Canadians with DRL's....will putting the 9011 hi-beam affect bulb life? I read somewhere that providing low voltage for DRL will discolour the bulb and shorten it's life quickly.
 

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Awesome write up!


For us Canadians with DRL's....will putting the 9011 hi-beam affect bulb life? I read somewhere that providing low voltage for DRL will discolour the bulb and shorten it's life quickly.
? for the 9011 specifically or in general DRLS do that?

I've read the same statement from an automotive lobby group in the USA...It's hogwash. Running the light at a reduced voltage almost guarantees an infinite bulb life at that voltage.

It will age the bulb but I ran them for 2 years without issue as a DRL and intermittent high beam.
 

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? Running the light at a reduced voltage almost guarantees an infinite bulb life at that voltage.
I don't like DRLs, but the above is also my understanding of how they affect bulb life
 

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One of my fog lights just burned out, so I replaced both with Phillips CrystalVision bulbs. Bulbs are stupid bright. When I flip my high beams on (and the fog lights automatically turn off), the road ahead appears darker.

When I'm coming or going to work at zero dark thirty, I got into the habit of only using my fogs when parking, so I'm not leaning my headlights into neighbor's houses. I made it about halfway to work this morning before realizing my headlights weren't on.
 

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Good Evening All, just read all 24 pgs. of this thread and am happy to hear of so many success stories. A special thanks to "Kelaog" for sharing his wisdom and guidance. Unfortunately my journey for better night time vision hasn't progressed as well. My 2011 Ram has dual (H13 bulb) assemblies. Which as referenced on pg. 2 I'm SOL.

Instead of going the HID, LED route I was curious if anyone felt I could go with new quad assys. with the bulb upgrade. I know I'll need some sort of wiring pigtail but was worried mainly of comp. code faults.

I've decided I have to do something because I just can't see.
Any Response Welcomed
 

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Good Evening All, just read all 24 pgs. of this thread and am happy to hear of so many success stories. A special thanks to "Kelaog" for sharing his wisdom and guidance. Unfortunately my journey for better night time vision hasn't progressed as well. My 2011 Ram has dual (H13 bulb) assemblies. Which as referenced on pg. 2 I'm SOL.

Instead of going the HID, LED route I was curious if anyone felt I could go with new quad assys. with the bulb upgrade. I know I'll need some sort of wiring pigtail but was worried mainly of comp. code faults.

I've decided I have to do something because I just can't see.
Any Response Welcomed
Yikes, yeah the H13 duals are garbage. Even worse... Your only really option is to A) Retrofit!

B) Quads

C) 2013+ Projectors.

If I had to rate cost vs. benefit I'd probably go with retrofitting your existing setup with a mini d2s 4.0.

I do have a set of black quads for sale but being in canada the shipping might be prohibitive.

The other issue with trucks originally equipped with duals is that when you hit the highbeam the low beam shuts off. So you'll need to do a little wiring to get OEM functionality with the quads/sport lights/ bixenons if you go that route.

I think I have a wiring diagram done up somewhere if you're interested.
 

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Thanks Sir for your reply, I went ahead today and ordered quad housings, H9 & 9011 bulbs. If you should run across a diagram to keep the low beam on it would be greatly appreciated.
Its safe to say the low beam only (2100 lumens) is a quantum leap from the 1000 I'm used to though. Thanks again
 

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Thanks Sir for your reply, I went ahead today and ordered quad housings, H9 & 9011 bulbs. If you should run across a diagram to keep the low beam on it would be greatly appreciated.
Its safe to say the low beam only (2100 lumens) is a quantum leap from the 1000 I'm used to though. Thanks again
NOTE: Not to be used with H13 bulbs...This is for those who had trucks with OEM duals and have upgraded to quads or projectors.


Really quick sketch at my desk today...NOTE

The squiggly bit on the relay is the coil (trigger). The switch part is powered by the battery.

How this works is the relay powers the low beam to be on (you'll now need an error canceler as well which isn't shown), and when the high is flipped power flows on way through the diode (power diode) to the trigger side of the low beam forcing it to stay on. Note you need the relay because a 'power' diode is only rated for 1 amp and you're drawing more like 5 for a low beam. You need the diode otherwise you'll power up the high beam when your low beam is on.

Hopefully you do not have DRL's becaues if you do then you'll have your low and high on when your DRL is on. Not the worst thing :p
 
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