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Hey guys, I've been throwing a mis-fire on cylinder 3 and finally got around to pulling the driver sider valve cover this evening. As I feared, the cam/lifter have very clearly failed. Kudos to the forum on this issue by the way. Lots of useful information.

I now need to decide what to do next. As much as I'd like to fix it myself, the reality is I just don't have the time; especially this year.

I'll be calling around tomorrow for some ballpark quotes, but I expect paying someone to fix it simply won't make sense. It's a 2013 with 140,000 miles on it. It's also got a decent amount of rust on the bottom of the doors and is due for new summer tires in the spring. I'll be buying a new truck in the next 12 months at this point. I just don't want to rush into one. Inventories in my area are ridiculously low.

So with that being said, what do you guys think is my best option:
-Pay someone to fix it
-Drive it until it dies
-Part it out
-Sell it as-is (I would be honest with the buyer)
-Hold onto it and teach my kids how things can be fixed :)

If I do continue to drive it but disconnect the ignition and injectors, does anyone know how bad this really would be? At the end of the day, I understand the engine will ultimately fail, but between now and buying something new, it should be ok right?

Cheers, and thanks for any ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I put everything back together with the exception of the faulty cylinder's COP and fuel injector connections. Those got wrapped with electrical tape. I'll give it a run tomorrow to see how it drives on 7 cylinders.
 

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If you like the truck and it is worth fixing then fix it and enjoy the truck but this time instead of using Group III conventional oils labeled as synthetic use a Group V Ester Synthetic oil, I have owned three Hemi's 2 5.7 one in a 1500 and one in a 2500 and a 6.4 Hemi in a 2500 Ram and I used Redline oil in all of them, never had any problems. The few extra dollars you spend on an oil change using a superior Group V Ester Synthetic oil is far cheaper than having to replace cams and lifters.

For you to make this work at the mileage you have on the engine you need to pull both heads and have valve jobs done on them as well as replace both cams and lifters, while you have it opened up it is a good idea to replace the timing chain and the slack adjusters as well and don't forget to replace the water pump while you have it torn down.

That Group V Ester Synthetic oil change does not sound so expensive anymore does it.
 

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That Group V Ester Synthetic oil change does not sound so expensive anymore does it.
For what it's worth, the only oil that's even been run through my truck is Amsoil's signature series oil. Maybe it isn't as good as Red Line but I thought it was at least top shelf stuff.
 

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2014 ram 1500 Since[2015] I purchased the truck in cash I've always taken it to the Dealership for regular maintenance and recalls. Trucks runs good but lately it developed a #5cyl defect and won't pass inspection. Dodge will not pay for the repairs and told my extended warranty company it was a preexisting condition therefore Endurance extended warranty won't pay either ! With 100k miles on the odometer.. It's clearly a design/parts defect and Dodge is quoting $3500 to fix the problem. In the era of Covid 19 where everyone's finances are strained and or savings drained "Dodge " wants to "shake down " its loyal customers for an obvious defect problem caused by their insufficient quality control and design deficiencies ! I had to pay $175 for a car rental (5days) and over $600 for Dodge just to look at it and they still can't give me a definite answer just a $$$$ bill ! Please reply to my comments should any doge ram 1500 owners decide to file a class action lawsuit pertaining to this specific problem(s ) . Thank you !
 

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2014 ram 1500 Since[2015] I purchased the truck in cash I've always taken it to the Dealership for regular maintenance and recalls. Trucks runs good but lately it developed a #5cyl defect and won't pass inspection. Dodge will not pay for the repairs and told my extended warranty company it was a preexisting condition therefore Endurance extended warranty won't pay either ! With 100k miles on the odometer.. It's clearly a design/parts defect and Dodge is quoting $3500 to fix the problem. In the era of Covid 19 where everyone's finances are strained and or savings drained "Dodge " wants to "shake down " its loyal customers for an obvious defect problem caused by their insufficient quality control and design deficiencies ! I had to pay $175 for a car rental (5days) and over $600 for Dodge just to look at it and they still can't give me a definite answer just a $$$$ bill ! Please reply to my comments should any doge ram 1500 owners decide to file a class action lawsuit pertaining to this specific problem(s ) . Thank you !
You probably can get a low mileage engine maybe.With lower mileage for that much money.It might be a better way. Especially if you could do the swap yourself
 

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Every vehicle made no matter the brand has problems. Things do not last forever. You purchased those warranties, and agreed to their terms. Paying cash does not make you special, giving you special treatment, with over 100,000 miles, and going on 8 years old. stuff wears out .
 

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I have a 14 ram with 104,000kms, no signs yet, but I do worry about this. depending on when it happens (if at all), I may pull the heads or get a new vehicle.
To OP, I live in Canada too, if rust has started, I don't think it's worth fixing, maybe sell as is and get a winter beater for the time being (do you absolutely need a pickup truck for the next 12 month?). Things are just stupidly expensive these days especially in Canada...
 

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For what it's worth, the only oil that's even been run through my truck is Amsoil's signature series oil. Maybe it isn't as good as Red Line but I thought it was at least top shelf stuff.
Amsoil has started using a lot of Group III conventional oil labeled as synthetic, even when they do use a true synthetic Amsoil uses Group IV PAO synthetic, the advantage of the Group V Ester synthetic oils is ester have a natural positive charge so they cling to the metal parts this helps to protect the cam, lifters Pistons/Cylinders and other bearings at start up because the Group V ester synthetic does not all drain off, a film of oil remains so you don't have a dry start until the oil pressure builds.

You can check the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for the Amsoil you use if they are making it available online and it section 3 or section 10 shows any petroleum products in either of those two secants then they are using Group III conventional oil labeled as Synthetic.

You can blame Castrol for this because they are the ones who started labeling Group III conventional oil and calling it synthetic.

Remember the engine suffers most of its wear at start up.
 

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2014 ram 1500 Since[2015] I purchased the truck in cash I've always taken it to the Dealership for regular maintenance and recalls. Trucks runs good but lately it developed a #5cyl defect and won't pass inspection. Dodge will not pay for the repairs and told my extended warranty company it was a preexisting condition therefore Endurance extended warranty won't pay either ! With 100k miles on the odometer.. It's clearly a design/parts defect and Dodge is quoting $3500 to fix the problem. In the era of Covid 19 where everyone's finances are strained and or savings drained "Dodge " wants to "shake down " its loyal customers for an obvious defect problem caused by their insufficient quality control and design deficiencies ! I had to pay $175 for a car rental (5days) and over $600 for Dodge just to look at it and they still can't give me a definite answer just a $$$$ bill ! Please reply to my comments should any doge ram 1500 owners decide to file a class action lawsuit pertaining to this specific problem(s ) . Thank you !
Why does everyone want to start class action lawsuits, rarely does the consumer ever get anything worth while from them, they will get a coupon for $10 dollars or you will get 100 dollars towards a new vehicle, it is very rare that the consumer gets much more than that all the while the lawyers are making millions of dollars on the case.

If you want to sue them for misrepresenting the vehicle and sold you a warranty and they are now claiming your issues were pre-existing then sue the dealer yourself. Surely when they sold you the warranty they implied everything would be covered in the package you bought or did you go and buy the warranty yourself outside of the dealer and knew the truck had issues when you purchased it?

In that case the warranty company would be within its rights to refuse coverage of a pre-existing defect.
 
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Hey guys, I've been throwing a mis-fire on cylinder 3 and finally got around to pulling the driver sider valve cover this evening. As I feared, the cam/lifter have very clearly failed. Kudos to the forum on this issue by the way. Lots of useful information.

I now need to decide what to do next. As much as I'd like to fix it myself, the reality is I just don't have the time; especially this year.

I'll be calling around tomorrow for some ballpark quotes, but I expect paying someone to fix it simply won't make sense. It's a 2013 with 140,000 miles on it. It's also got a decent amount of rust on the bottom of the doors and is due for new summer tires in the spring. I'll be buying a new truck in the next 12 months at this point. I just don't want to rush into one. Inventories in my area are ridiculously low.

So with that being said, what do you guys think is my best option:
-Pay someone to fix it
-Drive it until it dies
-Part it out
-Sell it as-is (I would be honest with the buyer)
-Hold onto it and teach my kids how things can be fixed :)

If I do continue to drive it but disconnect the ignition and injectors, does anyone know how bad this really would be? At the end of the day, I understand the engine will ultimately fail, but between now and buying something new, it should be ok right?

Cheers, and thanks for any ideas.
Tough call....my vote is either Swap engine or sell it. Fixing it up is very time consuming...paying someone to fix it is going to cost almost as much as a used engine swap.
 

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Tristar reman engines upgraded .or trade .I wouldn't rebuild a crap engine .
You are aware that a remanufactured engine was someone else's blown up crap engine right? The engine will be sent back as a core replacement and rebuilt and sold as a remanufactured engine to someone else. Nothing wrong with rebuilding an engine.
 
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Check out this link and read what all they do to recondition and improve the original engine design. If you don’t have time for a full rebuild, maybe you have time for and engine swap instead.

 

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I had a lifter fail and carve out a nice portion of its associated cam lobe. I bought all the needed parts and did the repair myself. Having never worked on an engine to that extent, I enjoyed the experience and learned a ton. Ended up using non-MDS lifters and deleting the MDS feature altogether with a tune.

It comes down to how much time and money you're willing to invest if you go the diy route. I saved at least $1000, even with the tuner, and had the peace of mind knowing exactly what was done.
 

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Seems like there are two different posts on this thread.
To the OP. Inventories everywhere are low right now and buying a new truck now may not be a reasonable.
Get a price from a reputable independent shop for either an engine swap with a lower mileage junk yard engine and a price for a cam, lifter, oil pump swap.
I replaced the cam and lifters and oil pump myself when my 2013 had that same issue. The cost was less than $1600 and that included ceramic headers and a tuner. Pulled the pan and cleaned it but most all metal debris was contained on the windage tray. I did that over a year ago and the engine runs perfect with great oil pressure. It's not really a big job, but if you don't have the time then I understand that option is out but having the engine repaired is still a reasonable option.
If you trade it in with a misfire, you may take a hit but it could be less than the total of having someone else make the repairs. Clear the code and keep the RPM below 2000. The code may not return at very low RPM's, but Ram dealers are likely already familiar with the lifter issue.
If you continue to drive the truck with a lifter roller that is sliding on the cam, it is causing the valve to not fully open and that is what is causing the misfire. Inefficient combustion in that cylinder.
 

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I have started to hear rumors of a class action suit similar to the one Toyota had on the engine sludge problems.
 

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If you need a truck fix it. But if you just need transportation sell it.
 
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