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Discussion Starter #1
Need suggestions. Threw a 340 code so I replaced the CPS, rotor, Cap and plugs. CEL went out so I figured it was fixed. Got it up to operating temp and shut it down and it won't start. Turns over great with no starter problems but I have to let it cool down to about 120-130 degrees and it will start back up with the CEL on and a 340 code again. It seems to be running a slight bit rougher also. I'm wondering if a 340 code could also mean a crank position sensor?
I can rebuild an engine from the ground up but this computer stuff throws me off. Hard parts I'm okay with but a bit lost and no experience with electronics.
I am going to put a fuel pressure gauge on it tomorrow (don't think it's the problem) just to check.

Best,
Dave
01
Ram 1500 ext cab 4x4
5.9 A/T
101000 miles
 

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Don't know specifically about the code. But it sounds exactly like mine behaved when the Crank Pos. Sensor went out.
 

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p0340 is camshaft position sensor malfunction. The Camshaft sensor is located inside the distributor under the rotor. very easy to change, and not very expensive...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Already replaced Camshaft sensor

SPW I already replaced a bunch of parts (in org post).
Brewtus I am thinking along the same lines as you are. I disconnected the battery last night and I am hoping for a full reset. I will drive for about 10 minutes and see after shutting down if it will re-start. If so great, if not off to get a crank sensor.

Rebelwoc
 

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Crank sensor removal

Today I drove it and didn't shut it off until I was done using my trailer. When I got home I shut it down and it wouldn't start. I got a new code of P0340 (cam) and P1391 which is communication between the cam and the crank. I verified this with a mechanic at the gas station when I was fueling up alongside him. He says it's the crank sensor for sure. Then he gave me his card. I went to pull this thing out and as far as I can tell I'm going to have to drop the exhaust and take or turn the trans fill tube to even be able to get a wrench on it. I had to use a mirror just to be able to see it. Any suggestions from you experienced guys? My body is a little beat up and it's hard for me to get around and this might be to much for me. I had to give up tonight and just spray some penetrating oil on the exhaust studs. Getting old ain't for sissy's that's for sure.
 

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It's by no means a picnic. But without an EGR tube coming off of the exhaust manifold like min has, you shouldn't need to remove anything other than the air cleaner assembly. It's a B$#@ to get to, but I did mine from underneath and got to the plug from the top by hugging the top of the engine hence the air cleaner. It's one of those 1/8 of a turn at a time sort of deals. Should only be 2 allen screws holding it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Brewtus

Yeah I've been snooping around a lot of forums on this and all say it's a tough nut to crack. Some guys even cut through the firewall and make an access panel. :smiledown:
Thanks for keeping an eye on me. I guess I'm just gonna have to suck it up and tackle this bit*h!
Rebel
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Lost at this point

I've replaced the cam sensor, rotor, cap, crank sensor and plugs. Today I went to the wrecking yard and got a computer for it and I'm getting the same codes that there's a problem in the cam sensor circuit. P1391 and P0340. I'm assuming all of my old parts or most of them were good. This is driving me nuts.
Can anything below the cam sensor in the distributor be bad?

Thanks all
Rebelwoc

P.S. Changing the crank sensor was a bit*h!!!!
 
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