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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so I have another thread on here titled "Truck Sluggish to Fire Up" and I detailed that my truck was cranking fine and has new OEM spark plugs but was stumbling/hesitating before finally starting. As if it was not getting gas.
Member "Zlow28" suggested the fuel pump was going bad and he may be right but I now think its a computer issue relating to the fuel pump.

Now, I was driving home from work yesterday truck is driving perfect then suddenly it was as if the engine/transmission/throttle were all disconnected from each other. It seemed like I was shifted into neutral, the engine was still running at idle but hitting the gas pedal did nothing. The screen said "shift to park to start". So i coast to the side of the road shift into park and it wont let me shift out of park. So i turn the truck off then on again and it starts running normal again except I have a check engine light.

So i drive to AutoZone to get the code and I get the following:

U0109 - LOST COMMUNICATION WITH FUEL PUMP CONTROL MODULE
P062A - FUEL PUMP "A" CONTROL CIRCUIT RANGE/PERFORMANCE
U0109 - LOST COMMUNICATION WITH FUEL PUMP CONTROL MODULE
U0140 - LOST COMMUNICATION WITH BODY CONTROL MODULE


The fuel pump communication code came up twice...not sure if that matters.

Anyone have any ideas? I hate going to the dealer because they know they have your balls in a vise especially if it is a computer issue.

Truck is a 2013 with about 70K miles and 2220 total engine hours.
 

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On a 4 y/o truck could it be the battery? My dad's only lasted 3 years in his 09 Ram. I would have it load tested
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The battery could cause an issue like this? I'm not having any troubling with the engine turning over or dimming lights, etc.
 

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I mean I'm no expert but the lost communication codes seem electrical, and a weak battery can cause electrical issues. The alternator has a regulator on it that prevents it from deep cycle charging the battery if it has been discharged too far. I have never been to New York, but my impression is that you may take a lot of short trips which reduces battery life
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I live just outside New York City and just moved to a new jobsite closer to home where I do take more short trips than I used to (15 min if that's short). But i do my fair share of 1 hour to 8 hour drives upstate.

I'll head to AutoZone now and have the battery tested. I'm sure they have decent brands there if i need to replace it.
 

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The Platinum Duralast batteries are AGM; I plan to replace mine in another year with an AGM instead of a lead-acid, probably an Interstate. The MT5 has a 30 mo warranty and 850 CCAs

They are more expensive but should last you longer than a lead acid and they usually have more CCAs
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Battery, Alternator, Charging system all checked out to be in good condition.

When I started the truck this morning there was no check engine light. After I left autozone the light came back on. I believe it's safe to assume it's the same codes.

I think it's either a bad connector or a short in a wire and hopefully not the hardware itself.

Any ideas of where on the truck i can look for a loose connection or frayed wires?
 

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Something you can try that is pretty easy is to go to the TIPM in front of the battery and just rock all the fuses back and forth and make sure the are seated properly. May or may not help but they have caused problems in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll go make sure all the fuses are seated properly and maybe blow some computer cleaning compressed air around. But first, has anyone else noticde that fuses are in but not completely pushed down all the way from the factory? I wouldn't want to push them down to much if that's possible.

The TIPM is my biggest fear on this truck...I really hope the problem isn't in there. I've seen people post about $1200 replacements and it seems to be a common problem.
 

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I'll go make sure all the fuses are seated properly and maybe blow some computer cleaning compressed air around. But first, has anyone else noticde that fuses are in but not completely pushed down all the way from the factory? I wouldn't want to push them down to much if that's possible.

The TIPM is my biggest fear on this truck...I really hope the problem isn't in there. I've seen people post about $1200 replacements and it seems to be a common problem.
I don't think its possible to push them down too far. I have not heard of TIPMs being a big problem since the mid to late 2000s but I think some of it has to do with corrosion which may be able to be prevented by plugging the bottom with dielectric grease around the connectors
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I pulled all the fuses and cleaned with compressed air and they are seated nice and firm. None of the fuses looked blown but I checked with a multi meter there were a few towing fuses that didn't have voltage to them but I had nothing plugged into the tow connectors so nbd.
I also noticed the 10A PCM fuse had no voltage to it… I don’t mean it was blown but neither side of the fuse was getting power. Now my truck is running and seems to work “normal” aside from the Check Engine Light and no ECO mode so I don’t know what to think about that.
Now I don’t want to lead anyone in the wrong direction but I did have a backup camera installed by the dealer back in December and when they gave me the truck the tail light wasn’t working and it was not a bad bulb. After fighting with them they finally fixed it and said it was a loose connection. Now this was about 7-8 months ago so it would be a delayed reaction but maybe it’s related and they did something more than cause a loose connection.
I’m starting to think I’m gonna need to bite the bullet and go back to the dealer and have them look at it. I don’t need to breakdown again and have it not turn back on…
 

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If the TIPM is the box with all the relays in it, they had trouble with those back in the 1980s, had to replace one under the hood and one under the dash a year later on my 1997 mine van.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
To bring closure to this thread and hopefully help someone in the future. The dealer diagnosed it as a bad Fuel Pump Control Module. It's a $40 dollar part and about 2.5 hours at the dealer. The total came out to $440 with diagnostics, parts, labor, shipping (had to overnight the part) and tax. The labor rate was a little high but glad to have the problem behind me.

I also got my T25 recall fixed at the same time!
 

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Mine went out at around 18 months when I had about 12K miles on it. I went to take off for a left turn and had the engine shut off on me half way through the turn.
 

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I replaced the Fuel pump control mod and truck still won't start.
Code U0109 came back
HELP
I replaced my FPCM about a month ago and same thing. Almost right from the get go the light came on. But one thing I noticed is it would come on when the fuel level was below half tank and go off when I filled it to full. That leads me to believe it's a bad fuel pump. Too many sensors on these late model trucks.

NOTE: Replacing the FCPM is the cheapest fix and should take you no more that 15 minutes to change on your own. DO NOT HAVE THE DEALER CHANGE IT. They will rob you on this very simple fix. Located on a cross frame support, it's super easy to get at and change.
 
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