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Ok - need some advice here..... Drove the truck to the store this morning, came home, no issues. 4hrs later heading to lunch - unlock doors with fob, put key in ignition and NOTHING. Like no battery connected. no dashlights, no headlights, no radio....nada. Battery is 30days old, with new connectors, tight and clean. And fob now doesn't work.

Just bought this truck used.... weird thing is - I have black key with no transponder. Key can be pulled out of ignition in any position. but none the less, has been working fine.

Steps Ive taken.....

1) Load tested battery.....tests fine.
2) Ohm tested all 20,30,40,50amp breakers under hood. all tested fine.
3) visual inspection of battery cables to alt, starter. tight and normal.
4) disconnected battery - held pos and neg cables together for 2min.
5) left batt disconnected for 30+ min.
6) Under steering column, tested 12ga red and blue wires for voltage, no voltage present with key in any position.
7) disconnected ignition module wiring harness and visually checked for burnt or bad connected, all looked fine - reconnected.

WHAT AM I MISSING????
 

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I had a similar problem a couple of times with my '05 Durango with the 4.7 motor. In both cases, the fix was to replace the ignition switch. The first time, I had it done at the dealer. The second time, I replaced it myself (out of necessity! Saturday afternoon, 200 miles from home, dead on the side of the street!!) with an aftermarket switch from NAPA. Part # KS6829. It should be the same part for your truck but check to be sure. The NAPA price was ~ $30.

This switch, at least the OEM ones, seem to be a weak link in the electrical system of the Gen 3 era. I have NOT had any issues with the NAPA switch for nearly 3 years but I did buy a "back up" from my local O'Reilly parts store just in case.

The replacement is fairly easy. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver and one with a T 15 Torx bit. "Google it" for the actual process. The switch is on the opposite side of the steering column from where you insert the key. BTW, if your key can be removed in any position, there's something wrong with the tumbler but that's probably not why you're having electrical issues.

The switch is purely mechanical so the OBDII may not throw any error codes. The first time I had this issue, the dealer's diagnostic check came back with nothing. An experienced tech (old-school "true" mechanic) at the dealer suggested the switch replacement in spite of the absence of diagnostic findings. I think that the second failure was because they used an OEM replacement switch!

Anyway, that is what I would do.

Good luck
RipVan
 
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