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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
**MODS: maybe this can be made a sticky thread as seeing quite a few members are wanting their amber LEDs turned on for their DRLs.

Myself and a couple other members figured out how to make the DRL-1 module work on the new model trucks. This is for those of us (most) who have been unsuccessful at having the dealer activate their amber LEDs at full power whenever the vehicle is in gear.

I don't have any pictures as I didn't think to take any when I was reinstalling my module. Anyhow - here is the procedure.

- You'll need the following -
DRL-1 Module which can be bought here - http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/DRL/DRL1.html

DRL-1 Daytime Running Lamp Module Installation

5 wire taps
One zip tie

Now this is for trucks that have the stock OEM projectors.

Once you have the above equipment in hand - lets get to work.

1. Start by removing the grille and headlight assemblies off the truck completely. The grille isn't necessary to remove, but just makes it easier.

2. Find a secure spot to secure the DRL module. I just zip-tied mine to a factory wire harness near the driver side headlight.

3. The yellow wire is your power wire. This needs to be tapped into an ignition powered source. I used a fuse tap and used one of the fuse locations, thus my DRLs are on at full power whenever the truck is on (unless my headlights are on which is explained further).

4. Your green wire is ground. I just made a hole in the frame behind the headlight with a self tapping screw and secured it there.

THERE IS NO CUTTING OF FACTORY WIRES NECESSARY!! The online instructions state to do that, but it is not required any longer.

5. The blue wire you want to use a wire tap and tap into Pin # 2 which is your parking light wire. This will cause the DRLs to dim to half power (like normal) when you flip your parking/fog lights on.

6. The Violet wire taps into your OEM DRL wire which is Pin # 4.

7. The Pink wire taps into your turn signal wire which is Pin # 12.

8. Extend the Red and Brown wires to your passenger side harness.

9. Wire tap the RED wire into the turn signal wire Pin # 12 on passenger side

10. Wire tap the brown wire into the DRL wire Pin # 4 on passenger side

The white wire coming off the DRL module can or can not be used. If used, it just makes it so when you turn your blinker on, it'll turn the other side DRL off until you turn your blinker back off.

I hope this helps someone who's been wanting DRLs.

When I followed the instructions that were given with the module, it caused my truck to give me bulb out errors and hyperflash the mirror blinkers. But once the other member was able to figure this out- I installed mine the same way and now have no errors and have my DRLs back and love it!

PM me if you have any questions.

I also thought we used to have DIY subsection, but I couldn't find it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Very nice DIY! . I'd rep ya more but it says I've given you too much love already!


Sticky material for sure.
You and HomeGrown are the main 2 who figured it out. I just got the topic going by getting on here and complaining that my DRLs won't work :LOL:
 

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I have a 20amp in mine...however, I think a 5 amp would be plenty big enough. I just had the 20amp spare so I used that.
Assuming the LED drivers are 30W you'd draw 2.5A @ 12V each light.

So a 5A would work well on each light or if you're splicing from one common power line then a 7.5-10amp would be adequate on there. 5 amp would probably work too because my 30W estimate is probably a tad high and your current draw will go down at operating voltage (14.5V). Myself I'd go with the 7.5 amp just to make sure I don't burn it out over time. 5 amp is the continuous rating but it's usually not common practice to run it at that rating.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Assuming the LED drivers are 30W you'd draw 2.5A @ 12V each light.

So a 5A would work well on each light or if you're splicing from one common power line then a 7.5-10amp would be adequate on there. 5 amp would probably work too because my 30W estimate is probably a tad high and your current draw will go down at operating voltage (14.5V). Myself I'd go with the 7.5 amp just to make sure I don't burn it out over time. 5 amp is the continuous rating but it's usually not common practice to run it at that rating.
I honestly don't know how to calculate that lol. I should be fine just leaving mine at a 20A fuse right?
 

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I honestly don't know how to calculate that lol. I should be fine just leaving mine at a 20A fuse right?
Ohms law
V=IR
P=VI
P=V^2/R
P=I^2R

20 amp will prevent you from a short circuit yes. It may or may not protect the wiring which is rated for 15amps. If it's easy enough to change I'd throw a 10 in there :p. Technically you'd never see more than the LED draw unless there is a short but @#$# happens I suppose. So in a round about answer, yes, the 20 is probably fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
pics would be good indeed :smileup: or a video :Hey:
If I need to take my headlights back off for some reason I'll take some pics - but hopefully someone who does this mod can take some pics. I'm just too lazy to go take my front end apart again lol
 

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I just purchased a 2016 RAM 1500 Laramie Longhorn and asked the dealership to enter the code to turn on the DRLs. The sales guy went to check if it was possible and was told that it was no longer available on the 2016 models. This doesn't seem logical, but if that's the case, pics and/or video would be nice for us (ME) not-so-mechanical/technical guys. :smileup:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just purchased a 2016 RAM 1500 Laramie Longhorn and asked the dealership to enter the code to turn on the DRLs. The sales guy went to check if it was possible and was told that it was no longer available on the 2016 models. This doesn't seem logical, but if that's the case, pics and/or video would be nice for us (ME) not-so-mechanical/technical guys. :smileup:
I didn't take any pics. But, if you read the first post of this thread, it's pretty simple. I saw your other question in my other thread about where to tap for power...I just used a fused spot in the fuse box that only gets power with the truck in RUN mode or actually on.
 

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I didn't take any pics. But, if you read the first post of this thread, it's pretty simple. I saw your other question in my other thread about where to tap for power...I just used a fused spot in the fuse box that only gets power with the truck in RUN mode or actually on.
Thank you. Both the pics and your detailed instructions are most helpful!

Cheers!
 
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